Sicily (Italy): sailing around the Aeolian islands
I don't know why it took me so long to accept Paolo's suggestions to take a 7-day sailing boat around Italy's Aeolian Islands located north of Sicily. As matter of fact, after my husband took his sailing license three years ago, he has a boundless enthusiasm for bowlines and stoppers, halyards and winches.
Why on a sailing boat on the Aeolian islands?
I may not get so excited to talk about sailing jibs and getting the mainsails down, but I do love enjoying those magical moments when you watch sunsets over the yardarm sipping a glass of Aeolian Malvasia wine.
And there is more than wine to go on a sailing boat to the Aeolian islands.
Who isn't dreaming about telling a story about smouldering vulcanoes, bright flower-hung little alleys or sitting on a pitch black beach lingering over a lemon granita?
Well, you'll find all this across 115 square kilometres of the Aeolian islands: with just 14,000 inhabitants, tourist crowds are few and far between here.
What I really love about sailing across the islands is breaking away from daily life, and while at sea you get rid of all the usual patterns: I truly have that feeling of freedom that I seek on holiday!
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| Our sailing crew in Panarea at sunset |
And what about the view from a sailing boat?
By sailing boat you can really take in the stunning nature and become one thing with the sea: the sun in your face, the wind in your hair, barefoot all day diving, swimming, going on the paddle board or snorkelling.
I simply love exploring island life by boat, it's completely different from other holidays, especially if it involves awesome blue beaches.
I simply love exploring island life by boat, it's completely different from other holidays, especially if it involves awesome blue beaches.
And how about rich historical backgrounds and myths?
The seven Aeolian islands are shaped into an Y, with the bottom island being the island of Vulcano (the closest to the Sicilan coast), Alicudi (the left top tip being the island of donkeys), and the right top tip the jet-setters' island, Panarea.
However, these seven impressive islands (Vulcano, Lipari, Panarea, Stromboli, Salina, Filicudi and Alicudi) are surrounded by hundreds of lava islets of different sizes and shapes which stick out of the blue cobalt sea.
Why?
Read more about my love for island life:
ANGUILLA (THE CARIBBEAN): MY FAVOURITE TROPICAL ISLAND
Sicily Aeolian islands: main features
YES, myths. The Aeolian islands are full of mythology. I have always associated myths with the Greek islands. In fact the Aeolian islands located in the Tyrrhenian Sea, off the coast of Milazzo (Sicily), are named after Aeolus, the Greek god of winds who -according to the legend- was the king and keeper of these Sicilian islands!The seven Aeolian islands are shaped into an Y, with the bottom island being the island of Vulcano (the closest to the Sicilan coast), Alicudi (the left top tip being the island of donkeys), and the right top tip the jet-setters' island, Panarea.
However, these seven impressive islands (Vulcano, Lipari, Panarea, Stromboli, Salina, Filicudi and Alicudi) are surrounded by hundreds of lava islets of different sizes and shapes which stick out of the blue cobalt sea.
Why?
Because these islands are all dead volcanoes, and like icebergs you can't see them for three-quarters: the biggest bit of these old volcanic part is underwater!
So if you are a lava chaser, you can get the thrill of getting closer to the volcanic burps and fumaroles by hiking to the two Aeolian volcanoes that are still alive and kicking: Stromboli and Vulcano!
UNESCO was fascinated too by the lure of the Aeolian islands and declared it World Heritage in 2000, recognising how varied and rich the Aeolian scenery and crystal clear waters are, let alone the awesome prehistoric art and the local food and wine.
I'll take you on a sailing cuise across the Aeolian islands!
So if you are a lava chaser, you can get the thrill of getting closer to the volcanic burps and fumaroles by hiking to the two Aeolian volcanoes that are still alive and kicking: Stromboli and Vulcano!
UNESCO was fascinated too by the lure of the Aeolian islands and declared it World Heritage in 2000, recognising how varied and rich the Aeolian scenery and crystal clear waters are, let alone the awesome prehistoric art and the local food and wine.
I'll take you on a sailing cuise across the Aeolian islands!
Fair winds! In Italian: buon vento!
It's the main island and it is full of archeological remains, a huge castle, a handful of churches, old pumice quarries, pumice white beaches, clear seabeds and, of course, a whole array of restaurants, pizzerias and shops to suit all tastes.
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| Our sailing boat moored in the Aeolian islands |
LIPARI
It's the main island and it is full of archeological remains, a huge castle, a handful of churches, old pumice quarries, pumice white beaches, clear seabeds and, of course, a whole array of restaurants, pizzerias and shops to suit all tastes.
It is the perfect mix between the secluded island life that you might enjoy on these islands, and the nightlife vibe that might appeal to the most the night people.
Both islands have huge active volcanoes which can be hiked with stunning panoramas, and charming black volcanic beaches to splash in: it can't get any better than this!
It is the green island, famous for growing capers which are said to be the best in Italy, and for producing excellent Malvasia wine. Some bays are just bucolic hideaways, perfect settings for the famous international films such as "Il Postino" (The Postman).
VIPs and jet setters from around the world meet here either on exclusive yachts or in panoramic white washed hibiscus-dotted villas: from the typical Aeolian terraces you can have the most breathtaking views on the bluest waters ever. But you get the same view from the terrace of most of bars and hotels spread on San Pietro's bay in Panarea, so...
Both are wild islands and due to their rough terrain, they are no roads that take you all around the islands. These two isolated islands are hidden chic retreats brimming with gorses, prickly pears and capers.
Here is a complete guide to a 7-day sailing cruise itinerary, setting sail from the biggest island, Lipari, and moving on to Panarea, Stromboli, Salina, and Vulcano.
Marcopolospirit's ultimate guide discloses the best off-the-beaten-path places and beaches to stop, what to see, where and what to eat and drink, and many special travel tips.
All hands, make sail!
Paolo and I got to Lipari by ferry from Milazzo: it's a short ferry ride (24 miles) from the Sicilian mainland. Lipari will appear as the biggest island built as it is on 12 dead volcanoes! You can see Lipari's clear volcanic origin and the jagged coastline when you approach the Marina Lunga's ferry jetty.
When you come from the sea, you also notice the mighty mountains rising high in the middle of the island and the crevasses carved by the sea and the winds. The sea and fisheries are still two of the most valuable economic sources in Lipari, together with tourism and agriculture.
The soil in Lipari is rich and fertile: "Lipari" in Greek means fertile. Grapevines, capers, dried tomatoes and olives are the main staples, and the main souvenir from the islands, if you want something traditional to bring home!
Lipari's life revolves around the eastern coast, in particular the areas of Marina Corta, Marina Lunga and the fortified Castle, although you can find 4 other little villages scattered around the island.
The small town nestles between Marina Corta and Marina Lunga which encompass the main attractions on the island. Marina Corta is the prettiest part with the main square full of ice cream bars, the Church of San Giuseppe and the cutest fishing port ever.
The second, Marina Lunga (the ferry landing port), is connected to the Marina Corta via Corso Vittorio Emanuele which is a pedestrian zone, where Lipari's nightlife movida and shopping take place. All around the main street there are little alleys full of flowery balconies!
Lipari's Castle is right in between the two bays, perched on an old volcanic crag: the 50-metre sheer cliff on which the castle was built is impressive. You will be there competing with seagulls for the best sea view on the castle railing!
Although the mighty castle as you see it today dates back to 1500, the first settlements in the area can be traced back to 4,000 B.C.! Lipari has seen any kind of ancient civilisation that you might think of which sooner or later came to live here: the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs, the Normans, the Spaniards... only the Flinstones are missing!
The Castle hosts one of the most important archeo collections in the world with 250 Greek comedy and tragedy masks recovered in the sea, as well as many submarine ancient amphorae from ancient vessels which sank. The Archeo Museum is spawning across several buildings with exhibits that cover the whole Aeolian island's history!
The last unmissable attraction is the Cathedral named after Saint Bartholomew, the town's patron saint, whose silver statue weighting 2 kilos of gold and 30 of silver is carried in procession by the inhabitants in August.
If you go right once you are in the cathedral, you will access the UNESCO's Norman cloister with Greek columns from the pre-existing temples. Something not to be missed!
Cala Junco bay was actually the first thing that we saw from the boat when we approached stunning Panarea: the bay is a big arch dotted with faraglioni rocks that stick out of waters looking like mushrooms.
I don't think I had hallucinations (from the faraglioni-mushrooms, I mean) when I saw the colours of the sea constantly changing from turquoise to green to blue.
I suppose that the beauty of the bay attracts so many tourists and sailing boats, that's why by middle morning the cove got really packed with super yachts.
Our next stop was the island of Stromboli, the northernmost island where His Majesty Stomboli volcano is located.
We approached the southern side which welcomed us with its old petrified lava flow. Our sailing boat seemed tiny by comparison with the imposing pitch black craggy side of the ever erupting monster.
Here the locals call it "Iddu" which means "Him", as if they did not dare to call him by his proper name as a mark of respect.
Stromboli is actually the only volcano in Europe which keeps on erupting every single day: the temperamental magma erupts in small burps and puffs at intervals of 10-15 minutes.
EVERY SINGLE DAY OF THE YEAR.
However, these eruptions are nothing like the disastrous one that took place on 11th September 1930 (the biggest ever in the whole history of the volcano as far as the experts know).
I guess that learning to live with this huge monster, literally breathening down people's neck, is something that Stromboli's inhabitants have in their DNA and that must be contagious for outsiders too: you learn to put it out of your mind from the moment you set foot on the island (I should really say, on the volcano), and get on with your life.
HE's there.
When you manage to zigzag through the fishing boats aground on the shore, you'll end up on the main street of San Vincenzo: the main street is lined up with bars, kiosks selling boat tours and colourful restaurants.
San Vincenzo is crawling with local women who carry shopping bags, tourists who ask for information, old fishermen who show their catch of the day to sunburnt colleagues, and of course people loitering around and watching strangers getting off ferries.
The only street called Via Roma flanked by white washed walls climbs up into the monster mountain. I suppose cube-shaped white houses surrounded by flowery gardens and scented pergolas must have withstood every single volcanic aftershock: their walls are slightly crooked.
The top part of Stromboli's centre is a small square with tavernas, the church and a tiny post office, an equally tiny bank and a chemists's shop. You get a stunning view on Strombolicchio (another little dead volcano whose top tip comes out of the sea) from the terraced bar called Bar Ingrid: Ingrid Bergan and Roberto Rossellini would come here during the shooting of the film "Stromboli, Terra di Dio" (Stromboli, land of God).
The Neorealist film was slammed in the press by the critics, but if you do want to see how rough Stromboli looked like in the 50s and get fantastic views from the top of the volcano, watch Rossellini and Bergman's film (link at bottom of the post)!
Actually, past the main piazza and down Via Vittorio Emanuele II which bends left, you can actually see the freshly repainted red house where the Italian film-maker and the actress used to live. It doesn't look glamourous at all; it's quite abandoned and sad, however next to it there's a wild garden full of wild oranges, fig trees, caper bushes which makes it cheerful. And you can eat mulberries right from the trees!
If you want to feel some adrenaline and don't have fear of heights, you should climb Stromboli for sure (details at the bottom of the post). I think it isn't so much about the physical challenge to this experience, it's the emotional one.
Watching this monster from below or from the sea is almost overwhelming, but can you imagine for a second watching the town from the mouth of the monster?
I'll never forget Stromboli's eruptions from the sea. The captain of our boat took us right under the "Sciara del Fuoco" (the lava flow which digs into the northern flank of the volcano). There's nothing on that side but a black field smoking with fumaroles. No greenery, no bushes, no vegetation.
Sunset is the best moment to enjoy Stromboli's eruptions from the sailing boat while the sun slowly sets and the sky around the vulcano becomes as red as Stromboli's tongues of fire.
The emotion is strong: when the sun goes down, the night is brightened by incandescent lava that splashes high from 3 different craters. If you look up, a sea of stars dot the sky (the island has no public lighting).
After the amazing show, it's time to set sail and go back to San Lorenzo's bay. From here if you look up you see the headlights on the hikers' helmets: long queues of them trotting down Stromboli. They're the hikers rushing back into town, after they have reached the top and watched the "fireworks" closely from the observation decks (details on climbing Stromboli at the end of the post).
Watch more about the Stromboli volcano eruptions and climbing during our Aeolian sailing holiday (by courtesy of our friend Donna Hilliard).
Salina is too big and high to tour it on foot. So hire a scooter or a car, and from Santa Marina harbour head southwards and drive to Punta Lingua (literally, the Tongue Tip!) where actually the road stops. Here you'll grasp why Salina has this name: there's a salt lake. Since Roman times locals used to extract salt from the lake seawater to preserve the famous Salina's capers.
If you go northwards, from Santa Marina's harbour, the mountainside road runs between low Malvasia vineyards, caper bushes and scrubland: a rural setting of amazing beauty!
Malfa is the second municipality on the island and it's a tiny town in the north of Salina where you can dip into the blue waters in pictoresque Punta Scario, a half moon beach of small pebbles surrounded by the old fishermen's warehouses.
Tip: if you go early in the morning to Malfa's pier, you'll see the fishermen coming back.
We actually ended our Salina road trip in Pollara on the western coast of the island: a natural amphiteater which is what is left of a dead volcano plunged into the sea.
Pollara is the most evocativa town in Salina: some scenes from the film "Il Postino" (The Postman) feature this spot and from the top of Pollara's belvedere you can see Pablo Neruda's house featured in the film.
Tip: if you visit Pollara, don't forget to take pics with Troisi's and Noiret's murales in the town centre!
No matter whether you call the island of Vulcano Therasia (meaning "hot" in ancient Greek) or Hyera (meaning "sacred" in old Greek) as it used to be called in the distant past, the southernmost Aeolian island is forged in fire.
Several volcano craters are scattered around 21.2 square kilometres, the highest of which is roughly 500 metres, while the "youngest" crater ( which dates back "only" to 183 b.c.) is a bit more than 100 mt.
The last eruption which lasted 2 years took place at the end of XIX century in the Cratere della Fossa (literally, the Pit's Crater): however, scientists keep a close eye to the fumaroles and yellow sulphur discharges as it might rumble into life again, as far as I know any minute.
Vulcano is an eerie place: a lively town features shops and restaurants at Vulcano Porto right at the bottom of the volcano's main crater. All around the land is keyed with yellow sukphur layers, black volcanic sands and the prevailing smell of rotten eggs (sulphur).
If you swim in Porto di Levante (Eastern Port) in the area called Acquacalda, you will be tickled by sea bubbles as if bottles of sparkling wine had been opened underwater!
And did you know that a Glaswegian, Mr James Stevenson, bought the island of Vulcano around 1870 from the House of Bourbon to exploit and use the Aeolian sulphur? Apart from his love for sulphur and the extraction business, Mr Stevenson planted vines all over the islands and had a colonial villa built (Villa Stevenson) which is still there, where he had all the wine fermented and stored before exporting it to the UK.
However, Stevenson did not stay long on Vulcano because during the XIX volcanic eruption he was injured by the flying rocks.
Climbing the Gran Cratere is by far the best attraction on Vulcano. If you visit Stromboli, this can be regarded as a sort of "training" for the harder ascent to the Stromboli's top.
Going up the Gran Cratere in Vulcano takes about 1 hour and you definitely need sturdy hiking shoes. The first part involves climbing up a rocky rough path, full of holes and under the sun! Another piece of advice is be extra careful if it rains as the surface gets extra slippery and you might fall (off the volcano steep slope).
The big crater is 500 mt wide and 200 mt deep with amazing colours and fumaroles which give a yellow hue to the surface. If you keep on walking, you can tour the whole crater and have a fantastic view of Vulcanello (the smaller vulcano on the western side of the island) and Lipari in the background.
If you look west, you can see Salina and the ridges of Filicudi and Alicudi; to the north Panarea and Stromboli.
The western side of Salina is home to another super interesting find: the Valley of the Monsters (la Valle dei Mostri). It's an area which was affected by a lava casting and it shows amazing rock formations.
The place is really mysterious: when you walk in the wilderness to reach this area, you feel that under your feet there's nothing and your steps sound hollow. A geo researcher that by chance was carrying out studies when we visited the Valley told us that this is because of underground lava tubes: hollow caves that were created when the lava flowed underground, cooled off and left an empty hole!
Tip: go there AFTER 6 pm towards sunset for great views of Lipari, or very early in the morning: it's hot!
Another famous attraction on the island is located just behind the Eastern Port: you can bathe in mud in the Pozza dei Fanghi (the Mud Pool) which is a pond (50 cm in depth by 50 metres in length) of sulphurous slurry created by underwater volcanic pipes!
Tired of sightseeing, climbing and swimming? In Vulcano there's a geothermal spa, a wellness area with several pools at different temperatures (25, 32 and 35 degrees) in the open air with waterfalls, chromotherapy and deck chairs for you to relax.
Curious to watch more about my summer sailing holiday in the Aeolian islands? Watch the video (by courtesy Anto Sailingaround).
However, if you want to see the actual religious Aeolian folklore, you should go to Lipari on 24th August for the celebrations, fireworks and processions in honour of the Aeolian islands' patron saint, Saint Bartholomew.
Catch from Catania Central station a train for Messina train station, and here change for Milazzo train station. Click here for schedule. You need a taxi from Milazzo train station to Milazzo port (15 euros).
CATHEDRAL AND CLOISTER: Norman cloister: 1 euro.
ARCHEO MUSEUM AND CASTLE: open daily from 9 am to 19.30 pm (Sunday only morning). 6 euros. Kids: 3 euros.
HIKING STROMBOLI: local tour agencies take you up in groups of roughly 30 people in roughly 2 to 3 hours (depending on the group).
You go up with a specialised guide. You will hire the gear on the spot (torches, hiking shoes and helmets) before climbing. You also need a clothes change and lots of water as you climb for almost 900 mt. Depending on the tour company, cost is roughly 30 euros plus the cost of hiring the trekking gear.
Descent takes about 2 hours (roughly 1,300 mt height gain!). Hiking is not fit if you have heart problems, fear or heights, not stable on your feet and any kind of leg impairments.
SIGHTSEEING SALINA: we hired a car to tour the island. Cost of a big van for 5 people: 10 euros each for a tour of a couple of hours tour.
Daniela Taxi's son, Mirco, knows Salina like the back of his hand: if you want to have further info on the island, he is fun and knowledgeable to visit the island with. Address: Piazza Santa Marina Salina. Phone: 333 6167491.
VULCANO
GEOTHERMAL SWIMMING POOLS: 16 euros for 3 hours. Click here for more info.
MUD HOT SPRINGS: click here for more info.
RENTING SCOOTERS: 20 euros for half a day.
More on Stromboli and drone footage over it.
Watch Rossellini's and Bergman's film "Stromboli, Terra di Dio".
More on the experience of climbing Stromboli.
More on Stromboli's fishermen life (short documentary).
More on the film "The Postman" featuring Salina.
More info on "cucunci" in Salina and the Slow Food Presidia.
More info on Salina.
VULCANO AND STROMBOLI
Both islands have huge active volcanoes which can be hiked with stunning panoramas, and charming black volcanic beaches to splash in: it can't get any better than this!
SALINA
It is the green island, famous for growing capers which are said to be the best in Italy, and for producing excellent Malvasia wine. Some bays are just bucolic hideaways, perfect settings for the famous international films such as "Il Postino" (The Postman).
PANAREA
VIPs and jet setters from around the world meet here either on exclusive yachts or in panoramic white washed hibiscus-dotted villas: from the typical Aeolian terraces you can have the most breathtaking views on the bluest waters ever. But you get the same view from the terrace of most of bars and hotels spread on San Pietro's bay in Panarea, so...
FILICUDI AND ALICUDI
Both are wild islands and due to their rough terrain, they are no roads that take you all around the islands. These two isolated islands are hidden chic retreats brimming with gorses, prickly pears and capers.
SicilyAeolian islands: 1 week sailing itinerary
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| Panoramic Sea view of the Aeolian islands |
Here is a complete guide to a 7-day sailing cruise itinerary, setting sail from the biggest island, Lipari, and moving on to Panarea, Stromboli, Salina, and Vulcano.
Marcopolospirit's ultimate guide discloses the best off-the-beaten-path places and beaches to stop, what to see, where and what to eat and drink, and many special travel tips.
All hands, make sail!
DAY 1: LIPARI
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| Enjoying the view from the top of Lipari |
Paolo and I got to Lipari by ferry from Milazzo: it's a short ferry ride (24 miles) from the Sicilian mainland. Lipari will appear as the biggest island built as it is on 12 dead volcanoes! You can see Lipari's clear volcanic origin and the jagged coastline when you approach the Marina Lunga's ferry jetty.
When you come from the sea, you also notice the mighty mountains rising high in the middle of the island and the crevasses carved by the sea and the winds. The sea and fisheries are still two of the most valuable economic sources in Lipari, together with tourism and agriculture.
The soil in Lipari is rich and fertile: "Lipari" in Greek means fertile. Grapevines, capers, dried tomatoes and olives are the main staples, and the main souvenir from the islands, if you want something traditional to bring home!
LIPARI'S ONSHORE ATTRACTIONS
Lipari's life revolves around the eastern coast, in particular the areas of Marina Corta, Marina Lunga and the fortified Castle, although you can find 4 other little villages scattered around the island.
The small town nestles between Marina Corta and Marina Lunga which encompass the main attractions on the island. Marina Corta is the prettiest part with the main square full of ice cream bars, the Church of San Giuseppe and the cutest fishing port ever.
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| Lipari's beautiful town centre at night |
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| Another cute corner of Lipari's harbour |
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| Another wonderful perspective of Lipari's little port at night |
The second, Marina Lunga (the ferry landing port), is connected to the Marina Corta via Corso Vittorio Emanuele which is a pedestrian zone, where Lipari's nightlife movida and shopping take place. All around the main street there are little alleys full of flowery balconies!
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| Lipari's main street |
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| Lipari's alleys full of flowers |
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| Quaint balcony in Lipari |
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| Colourful balconies in Lipari |
Lipari's Castle is right in between the two bays, perched on an old volcanic crag: the 50-metre sheer cliff on which the castle was built is impressive. You will be there competing with seagulls for the best sea view on the castle railing!
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| Lipari's Castle from the fishermen's port |
Although the mighty castle as you see it today dates back to 1500, the first settlements in the area can be traced back to 4,000 B.C.! Lipari has seen any kind of ancient civilisation that you might think of which sooner or later came to live here: the Greeks, the Romans, the Arabs, the Normans, the Spaniards... only the Flinstones are missing!
The Castle hosts one of the most important archeo collections in the world with 250 Greek comedy and tragedy masks recovered in the sea, as well as many submarine ancient amphorae from ancient vessels which sank. The Archeo Museum is spawning across several buildings with exhibits that cover the whole Aeolian island's history!
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| Ancient amphorae in Lipari's archeo museum |
The last unmissable attraction is the Cathedral named after Saint Bartholomew, the town's patron saint, whose silver statue weighting 2 kilos of gold and 30 of silver is carried in procession by the inhabitants in August.
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| Lipari's Cathedral sticking out at a distance |
If you go right once you are in the cathedral, you will access the UNESCO's Norman cloister with Greek columns from the pre-existing temples. Something not to be missed!
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| The Norman Cathedral UNESCO cloister |
LIPARI'S OFFSHORE ATTRACTIONS
One of the things that I like best about sailing is the fact that you reach spectacular beaches such as Lipari's Campo Bianco di Porticello located in the northeastern part of the island: white pumice beach and seabed that used to be big pumice quarries. That's why it is called "Campo Bianco" (literally, "white field") and it is UNESCO protected.
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| Lipari's Campo Bianco di Porticello with the old industrial quarries |
The white pumice deposits and quarries can be found all over Lipari and were formed by the volcanos eruptions: thanks to the volcanos, the people from Lipari managed to extract 500,000 pomice tons yearly until 50 years ago when they were definitely closed down.
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| Lipari's pomice quarry |
In the morning we sailed to Porticello bay where we anchored at sea.
The view that you get from the sailing boat is unreal: a white stretch of beach that seems to hover between the green colour of the sea and the light blue sky, surrounded by old pumice industrial buildings that are no longer working.
The view that you get from the sailing boat is unreal: a white stretch of beach that seems to hover between the green colour of the sea and the light blue sky, surrounded by old pumice industrial buildings that are no longer working.
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| Sailing to awesome Campo Bianco di Porticello, Lipari |
DAY 2: PANAREA
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| Cala Junco in Panarea |
After weighing anchor we were ready to sail for the next island, Panarea, 2 hours away from Lipari by boat.
From the sea, the island looks like a rustic wedge showing off the slanting peak of Punta del Corvo (427 mt). Since the island was discovered and used as a setting by intellectuals and artists such as the Italian film maker Michelangelo Antonioni in '60s, Panarea has become a luxury haven in the summer (however, people tell me that in winter you can count the inhabitants on one hand as very few have decided to settle here).
From the sea, the island looks like a rustic wedge showing off the slanting peak of Punta del Corvo (427 mt). Since the island was discovered and used as a setting by intellectuals and artists such as the Italian film maker Michelangelo Antonioni in '60s, Panarea has become a luxury haven in the summer (however, people tell me that in winter you can count the inhabitants on one hand as very few have decided to settle here).
However, the ancient past of the smallest island in the archipelago (just 3.5 square miles) wasn't glamorous at all: the Turks and Arabs pillaged and destroyed it so badly that locals still remember their notoriuous names in one of the neighbourhood names, Contrada Drautto (named after the pirate Draught!).
SALINA'S ONSHORE ATTRACTIONS
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| Panarea from the sea |
The only port in Panarea is San Pietro where you can find a sleeping ambience: small shops, restaurants and villa enclosures are steeped in a tranquil atmosphere. I guess because it was June and the tourists' crowds were still a faraway omen.
However, my sailing companions who know Panarea well admit it that in August the night movida is the hottest in the whole archipelago, and you won't find as much peace at night as in June. So if your idea of luxury haven is frenzied Ibiza, forget it. Panarea is quite the opposite: it's an unostentatious luxury place.
However, my sailing companions who know Panarea well admit it that in August the night movida is the hottest in the whole archipelago, and you won't find as much peace at night as in June. So if your idea of luxury haven is frenzied Ibiza, forget it. Panarea is quite the opposite: it's an unostentatious luxury place.
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| Panarea's villas and pictoresque alleys |
Cars and ATM banks are banned from the island which seem a contradiction in terms to me, but on a second thought you understand why Panarea is actually known for its exclusivity (i.e. the rich don't need cars apparently, and they don't need money).
White washed sun bleached blue doors close off and prevent you from peering into the lush terraced yards brimming with Bougainville and Hibiscus bushes. If you walk up the street Via San Pietro, you wind through fantastic gardens and cottages, some of which must have hosted "la Dolce Vita" a long time ago.
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| Lush terraced garden in Panarea |
However, just to set the record, in the 60s the whiff of fame involved staying at Raya hotel which today is still up and running, but has this past glory feelings to it.
"You should have an aperitif on the Raya hotel terrace", declares our skipper. From the Raya hotel, the breathtaking sea view over the uninhabited rocks of Lisca Bianca, Lisca Nera, and Basiluzzo are simply unforgettable. Let alone the view of Stromboli's fumes puffing in the far distance.
"You should have an aperitif on the Raya hotel terrace", declares our skipper. From the Raya hotel, the breathtaking sea view over the uninhabited rocks of Lisca Bianca, Lisca Nera, and Basiluzzo are simply unforgettable. Let alone the view of Stromboli's fumes puffing in the far distance.
Luckily we got back to the boat by electric golf carts (which run fast by the way!) just in time before it was pitch dark: there are no lights or public street illumination in Panarea, and strolling through the magnificent streets overlooking the villas can be fascinating only if you have a headlamp with you (which we didn't have).
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| Amazing villa overlooking the sea |
If you are feeling energetic before the sun raises at the break of dawn (during the day it's too hot) and if you are into history, you can continue on the road that from San Pietro takes you to the 20 prehistoric stone huts of Punta Milazzese, a highland overlooking the wonderful panorama on Calajunco bay.
SALINA'S OFFSHORE ATTRACTIONS
Cala Junco bay was actually the first thing that we saw from the boat when we approached stunning Panarea: the bay is a big arch dotted with faraglioni rocks that stick out of waters looking like mushrooms.
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| Rock formations at Cala Junco bay in Panarea |
I don't think I had hallucinations (from the faraglioni-mushrooms, I mean) when I saw the colours of the sea constantly changing from turquoise to green to blue.
I suppose that the beauty of the bay attracts so many tourists and sailing boats, that's why by middle morning the cove got really packed with super yachts.
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| Cala Junco as seen from the top of Capo Milazzese's Bronze Age settlement |
The other beautiful beach that we reached just getting past the rocks of Cala Junco was Cala Zimmari: a red sandy beach of volcanic origin where the footpath to the Bronze Age hut settlement start.
In Cala Zimmari I swam in the green-blue sea, at least 10 feet of depth under my swinging feet, the water was pleasantly cold in June. At a distance rocks and pebbles washed upon the shore had every hue of brown, green, red and grey. Their shapes were all different: rounded, with spiky tips, flat, rugged ...
I swam the shore and sat on some rocks to pick one with my wet fingers: it was sharp with jagged curves. I flicked the pebble and watched it disappear in the sea. The sun was making the hull of our sailing boat sparkle.
My perfect blissful moment in Panarea.
The morning after we set off for Stromboli, but before reaching the northernmost island, we called at three islets just off Panarea's east coast: Dattilo, Lisca Bianca and Lisca Nera.
Here the morning fun was swimming in champagne bubbles! You might think: the follies of Panarea's super rich. They are not.
These area around these three islets form a swimming pool where at 20 mt depth there is clearly some submarine volcanic activity... and the sulfur bubbles coming from the seabed are the proof that the volcano underneath is not dead yet!
Nature in the Aeolian island outgrows our wildest expectations!
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| Panarea: Cala Zimmari and the path to the prehistoric settlement |
In Cala Zimmari I swam in the green-blue sea, at least 10 feet of depth under my swinging feet, the water was pleasantly cold in June. At a distance rocks and pebbles washed upon the shore had every hue of brown, green, red and grey. Their shapes were all different: rounded, with spiky tips, flat, rugged ...
I swam the shore and sat on some rocks to pick one with my wet fingers: it was sharp with jagged curves. I flicked the pebble and watched it disappear in the sea. The sun was making the hull of our sailing boat sparkle.
My perfect blissful moment in Panarea.
The morning after we set off for Stromboli, but before reaching the northernmost island, we called at three islets just off Panarea's east coast: Dattilo, Lisca Bianca and Lisca Nera.
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| View of Dattilo islet from Panarea |
Here the morning fun was swimming in champagne bubbles! You might think: the follies of Panarea's super rich. They are not.
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| Volcanic activity makes the sea bubble around Panarea |
These area around these three islets form a swimming pool where at 20 mt depth there is clearly some submarine volcanic activity... and the sulfur bubbles coming from the seabed are the proof that the volcano underneath is not dead yet!
Nature in the Aeolian island outgrows our wildest expectations!
DAY 3: STROMBOLI
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| Stromboli in the distance; on the right, Basiluzzo |
Our next stop was the island of Stromboli, the northernmost island where His Majesty Stomboli volcano is located.
We approached the southern side which welcomed us with its old petrified lava flow. Our sailing boat seemed tiny by comparison with the imposing pitch black craggy side of the ever erupting monster.
Here the locals call it "Iddu" which means "Him", as if they did not dare to call him by his proper name as a mark of respect.
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| Iddu |
Stromboli is actually the only volcano in Europe which keeps on erupting every single day: the temperamental magma erupts in small burps and puffs at intervals of 10-15 minutes.
EVERY SINGLE DAY OF THE YEAR.
However, these eruptions are nothing like the disastrous one that took place on 11th September 1930 (the biggest ever in the whole history of the volcano as far as the experts know).
I guess that learning to live with this huge monster, literally breathening down people's neck, is something that Stromboli's inhabitants have in their DNA and that must be contagious for outsiders too: you learn to put it out of your mind from the moment you set foot on the island (I should really say, on the volcano), and get on with your life.
HE's there.
STROMBOLI'S ONSHORE ATTRACTIONS
Stromboli is just 12 square metres, no cars are admitted: all the big boats and ferries stops at Scari, the small port. Tourists mix with local fishermen on the long black stretch of lava sand where seagulls and boats compete for some patch of sand. |
| Fishermen in Stromboli working on the beach |
When you manage to zigzag through the fishing boats aground on the shore, you'll end up on the main street of San Vincenzo: the main street is lined up with bars, kiosks selling boat tours and colourful restaurants.
San Vincenzo is crawling with local women who carry shopping bags, tourists who ask for information, old fishermen who show their catch of the day to sunburnt colleagues, and of course people loitering around and watching strangers getting off ferries.
The only street called Via Roma flanked by white washed walls climbs up into the monster mountain. I suppose cube-shaped white houses surrounded by flowery gardens and scented pergolas must have withstood every single volcanic aftershock: their walls are slightly crooked.
The top part of Stromboli's centre is a small square with tavernas, the church and a tiny post office, an equally tiny bank and a chemists's shop. You get a stunning view on Strombolicchio (another little dead volcano whose top tip comes out of the sea) from the terraced bar called Bar Ingrid: Ingrid Bergan and Roberto Rossellini would come here during the shooting of the film "Stromboli, Terra di Dio" (Stromboli, land of God).
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| View on Strombolicchio |
The Neorealist film was slammed in the press by the critics, but if you do want to see how rough Stromboli looked like in the 50s and get fantastic views from the top of the volcano, watch Rossellini and Bergman's film (link at bottom of the post)!
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| Ingrid Bergman starring in the film at the top of Stromboli |
Actually, past the main piazza and down Via Vittorio Emanuele II which bends left, you can actually see the freshly repainted red house where the Italian film-maker and the actress used to live. It doesn't look glamourous at all; it's quite abandoned and sad, however next to it there's a wild garden full of wild oranges, fig trees, caper bushes which makes it cheerful. And you can eat mulberries right from the trees!
If you want to feel some adrenaline and don't have fear of heights, you should climb Stromboli for sure (details at the bottom of the post). I think it isn't so much about the physical challenge to this experience, it's the emotional one.
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| Spectacular lava explosions at Stromboli |
Watching this monster from below or from the sea is almost overwhelming, but can you imagine for a second watching the town from the mouth of the monster?
STROMBOLI'S OFFSHORE ATTRACTIONS
I'll never forget Stromboli's eruptions from the sea. The captain of our boat took us right under the "Sciara del Fuoco" (the lava flow which digs into the northern flank of the volcano). There's nothing on that side but a black field smoking with fumaroles. No greenery, no bushes, no vegetation.
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| Stromboli's blackened side with lava flow |
Sunset is the best moment to enjoy Stromboli's eruptions from the sailing boat while the sun slowly sets and the sky around the vulcano becomes as red as Stromboli's tongues of fire.
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| Stromboli's on fire at sunset |
The emotion is strong: when the sun goes down, the night is brightened by incandescent lava that splashes high from 3 different craters. If you look up, a sea of stars dot the sky (the island has no public lighting).
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| Sciara del Fuoco in Stromboli |
After the amazing show, it's time to set sail and go back to San Lorenzo's bay. From here if you look up you see the headlights on the hikers' helmets: long queues of them trotting down Stromboli. They're the hikers rushing back into town, after they have reached the top and watched the "fireworks" closely from the observation decks (details on climbing Stromboli at the end of the post).
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| Stromboli climbing to the viewpoint platforms @Photo by Donna Hilliard |
Watch more about the Stromboli volcano eruptions and climbing during our Aeolian sailing holiday (by courtesy of our friend Donna Hilliard).
DAY 4: SALINA
Sailing west of Panarea, you won't regret stopping at Salina which is actually located at heart of the Aeolian archipelago and it's the second largest island.
Monte delle Felci (literally, "Mount of Ferns") and Monte dei Porri (literally "Mount of Leaks"), the two mountains (ex volcanoes) in the middle of the island prevent all the sea moisture from escaping the island.
That's why Salina is nicknamed: "the green lung of the Aeolian islands", while in the past the island was nicknamed "Dydimo" which in Greek it means "twins"! (Actually, the local down-to-earth sailors say they look like two big breasts😜).
Until VII century all the volcanoes in Lipari were very active, so all the ancient populations used to live in Salina; however, the Arabs' invasions made Salina a deserted spot until 1600 when people started to come here again because the island was super fertile!
And today it still is super fertile. Malvasia grapevines, all sorts of wild flowers, caper bushes, lush vegetable gardens are the result of this fertile soil which has been shaped by the local microclimate. Salina is such a beautiful place that even the Mauritius kestrels (a type of falcon) come all the way to find a comfy site to nest!
The climate is the key factor to having lovely Malvasia wine which is real feather in Salina's cup! The white vines were imported by the Greek colonisers and they literally covered the island with them: at the end of the summer grapes are picked by hand and left on trellis to dry until sugar concentration is high. The locals call it the nectar of the gods for a reason!
Tip: if you go in July every year there is the famous "Malvasia Day", a party to celebrate the famous wine.
The other important plant for Salina is capers. It's a wild plant originally coming from the Asia which ended up here somehow: locals pick the early buds one by one with patience which they preserve in salt. However, from the same plant they also pick the so-called "cucinci" which is the fruit from the capers!
If locals don't pick the caper buds, the buds turn into beautiful candid white flowers which wither. The weathering plant will provide the "cucunci" fruits which have a long shape used as appetizers and which are Slow Food Presidia.
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| Salina has the most colourful doors of the Aeolian islands (and pitch black cats too) |
Monte delle Felci (literally, "Mount of Ferns") and Monte dei Porri (literally "Mount of Leaks"), the two mountains (ex volcanoes) in the middle of the island prevent all the sea moisture from escaping the island.
That's why Salina is nicknamed: "the green lung of the Aeolian islands", while in the past the island was nicknamed "Dydimo" which in Greek it means "twins"! (Actually, the local down-to-earth sailors say they look like two big breasts😜).
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| Salina's breasts from the plane |
Until VII century all the volcanoes in Lipari were very active, so all the ancient populations used to live in Salina; however, the Arabs' invasions made Salina a deserted spot until 1600 when people started to come here again because the island was super fertile!
And today it still is super fertile. Malvasia grapevines, all sorts of wild flowers, caper bushes, lush vegetable gardens are the result of this fertile soil which has been shaped by the local microclimate. Salina is such a beautiful place that even the Mauritius kestrels (a type of falcon) come all the way to find a comfy site to nest!
The climate is the key factor to having lovely Malvasia wine which is real feather in Salina's cup! The white vines were imported by the Greek colonisers and they literally covered the island with them: at the end of the summer grapes are picked by hand and left on trellis to dry until sugar concentration is high. The locals call it the nectar of the gods for a reason!
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| Malvasia grapes harvest: the nectar of Gods |
Tip: if you go in July every year there is the famous "Malvasia Day", a party to celebrate the famous wine.
The other important plant for Salina is capers. It's a wild plant originally coming from the Asia which ended up here somehow: locals pick the early buds one by one with patience which they preserve in salt. However, from the same plant they also pick the so-called "cucinci" which is the fruit from the capers!
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| Salina's capers: the flagship product of the island |
If locals don't pick the caper buds, the buds turn into beautiful candid white flowers which wither. The weathering plant will provide the "cucunci" fruits which have a long shape used as appetizers and which are Slow Food Presidia.
SALINA'S ONSHORE ATTRACTIONS
Salina is too big and high to tour it on foot. So hire a scooter or a car, and from Santa Marina harbour head southwards and drive to Punta Lingua (literally, the Tongue Tip!) where actually the road stops. Here you'll grasp why Salina has this name: there's a salt lake. Since Roman times locals used to extract salt from the lake seawater to preserve the famous Salina's capers.
If you go northwards, from Santa Marina's harbour, the mountainside road runs between low Malvasia vineyards, caper bushes and scrubland: a rural setting of amazing beauty!
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| Salina from the top of the mountainside road |
Malfa is the second municipality on the island and it's a tiny town in the north of Salina where you can dip into the blue waters in pictoresque Punta Scario, a half moon beach of small pebbles surrounded by the old fishermen's warehouses.
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| Malfa from the top and the fishermen's deposits on the beach |
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| Punta Scario, Salina |
Tip: if you go early in the morning to Malfa's pier, you'll see the fishermen coming back.
We actually ended our Salina road trip in Pollara on the western coast of the island: a natural amphiteater which is what is left of a dead volcano plunged into the sea.
Pollara is the most evocativa town in Salina: some scenes from the film "Il Postino" (The Postman) feature this spot and from the top of Pollara's belvedere you can see Pablo Neruda's house featured in the film.
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| Pollara, the bay where "The Postman's house" film was shot (right) |
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| The Postman's house film terrace |
Tip: if you visit Pollara, don't forget to take pics with Troisi's and Noiret's murales in the town centre!
SALINA'S OFFSHORE ATTRACTIONS
One of the best places that we reached by sailing boat to take a dip and snorkel was Basiluzzo: not that the fish that you see there is any different from that of other sea areas, but because the uninhabitated rock which was cultivated and populated in the past has amazing vertical cliffs that plunge deep in the sea.
On the island there are remain of an ancient Roman villa and a Roman fish farm located close to one of the landings of the island which is now underwater due to the slow sinking of the area and the volcanic calderas.
From the sailing boat the sun made the green-blue sea shine as if it was scattered with sequins that lay flat on the sea after a colourful party.
The gentle wind would make a ripple on the sea surface with short waves breaking on the white pebbled shore, seagulls wheeled over the boat carried by the breeeze. On the deck I was enjoying the wild scenary.
The gentle wind would make a ripple on the sea surface with short waves breaking on the white pebbled shore, seagulls wheeled over the boat carried by the breeeze. On the deck I was enjoying the wild scenary.
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| Basiluzzo is a heavenly place |
The boat wooden planks weather-beaten under the sun looked like a wise old woman. How many seaborne ventures would she tell me if only she could talk! "When I become old, I want to be like her.", I thought dazzled by the magic of Salina's sun.
My blissful moment in Salina.
DAY 5: VULCANO
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| Vulcano from the top |
No matter whether you call the island of Vulcano Therasia (meaning "hot" in ancient Greek) or Hyera (meaning "sacred" in old Greek) as it used to be called in the distant past, the southernmost Aeolian island is forged in fire.
Several volcano craters are scattered around 21.2 square kilometres, the highest of which is roughly 500 metres, while the "youngest" crater ( which dates back "only" to 183 b.c.) is a bit more than 100 mt.
The last eruption which lasted 2 years took place at the end of XIX century in the Cratere della Fossa (literally, the Pit's Crater): however, scientists keep a close eye to the fumaroles and yellow sulphur discharges as it might rumble into life again, as far as I know any minute.
Vulcano is an eerie place: a lively town features shops and restaurants at Vulcano Porto right at the bottom of the volcano's main crater. All around the land is keyed with yellow sukphur layers, black volcanic sands and the prevailing smell of rotten eggs (sulphur).
If you swim in Porto di Levante (Eastern Port) in the area called Acquacalda, you will be tickled by sea bubbles as if bottles of sparkling wine had been opened underwater!
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| Underwater fumaroles in Vulcano: see the water bubbling? |
And did you know that a Glaswegian, Mr James Stevenson, bought the island of Vulcano around 1870 from the House of Bourbon to exploit and use the Aeolian sulphur? Apart from his love for sulphur and the extraction business, Mr Stevenson planted vines all over the islands and had a colonial villa built (Villa Stevenson) which is still there, where he had all the wine fermented and stored before exporting it to the UK.
However, Stevenson did not stay long on Vulcano because during the XIX volcanic eruption he was injured by the flying rocks.
VULCANO'S ONSHORE ATTRACTIONS
Climbing the Gran Cratere is by far the best attraction on Vulcano. If you visit Stromboli, this can be regarded as a sort of "training" for the harder ascent to the Stromboli's top.
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| Path to the Gran Cratere in Vulcano |
Going up the Gran Cratere in Vulcano takes about 1 hour and you definitely need sturdy hiking shoes. The first part involves climbing up a rocky rough path, full of holes and under the sun! Another piece of advice is be extra careful if it rains as the surface gets extra slippery and you might fall (off the volcano steep slope).
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| Almost at the top of the big crater |
The big crater is 500 mt wide and 200 mt deep with amazing colours and fumaroles which give a yellow hue to the surface. If you keep on walking, you can tour the whole crater and have a fantastic view of Vulcanello (the smaller vulcano on the western side of the island) and Lipari in the background.
If you look west, you can see Salina and the ridges of Filicudi and Alicudi; to the north Panarea and Stromboli.
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| The big crater in Vulcano |
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| Paolo enjoys the view of Salina, Alicudi and Filicudi from Volcano top |
The western side of Salina is home to another super interesting find: the Valley of the Monsters (la Valle dei Mostri). It's an area which was affected by a lava casting and it shows amazing rock formations.
The place is really mysterious: when you walk in the wilderness to reach this area, you feel that under your feet there's nothing and your steps sound hollow. A geo researcher that by chance was carrying out studies when we visited the Valley told us that this is because of underground lava tubes: hollow caves that were created when the lava flowed underground, cooled off and left an empty hole!
Tip: go there AFTER 6 pm towards sunset for great views of Lipari, or very early in the morning: it's hot!
Another famous attraction on the island is located just behind the Eastern Port: you can bathe in mud in the Pozza dei Fanghi (the Mud Pool) which is a pond (50 cm in depth by 50 metres in length) of sulphurous slurry created by underwater volcanic pipes!
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| The big mud pool in Vulcano Photo by Donna Hilliard |
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| Eastern Port in Vulcano at sunset Photo by Donna Hilliard |
Tired of sightseeing, climbing and swimming? In Vulcano there's a geothermal spa, a wellness area with several pools at different temperatures (25, 32 and 35 degrees) in the open air with waterfalls, chromotherapy and deck chairs for you to relax.
DAY 6 AND 7: LIPARI
The appeal of holiday on a sailing boat deck has grown on me since this Aeolian sailing experience and I can't think now of holidays across stunning islands without a sailing boat (or at least exploring it by boat AND hop-on hop-off tour). Experiencing islands by boat is completely different and much more immersive.
However, the cons are that if the weather change suddenly as it did during our sailing trip, you are left at the mercy of winds.
However, the cons are that if the weather change suddenly as it did during our sailing trip, you are left at the mercy of winds.
So although one paint a sailing holiday as a natural and romantic one, you have to be flexible enough to suit your sailing plans and holidays to the weather forecast. The original plan was to sail to Filicudi and Alicudi too; however, on 5th and 6th day we had to head back to Lipari's harbour as bad weather set in and you don't want to wrestle with moody waves, heavy rain and the Tyrrenhian sea.
That's why I can't wait for my next sailing vacation to Filicudi and Alicudi. Arrivederci beautiful Aeolian islands!
IN BRIEF
WHEN TO GO
With good weather from April to September, the Aeolian islands are an excellent place to visit even outside the summer season. So avoid the crowds in August, and choose early spring or come before the Italian school breaks up (middle of June) or after the school time resumes (middle of September).However, if you want to see the actual religious Aeolian folklore, you should go to Lipari on 24th August for the celebrations, fireworks and processions in honour of the Aeolian islands' patron saint, Saint Bartholomew.
HOW TO GET THERE
Getting to the Aeolian islands is quite a journey, but worth every second of the hassle you go through to reach them.
You need to fly to one of the Sicilian airports, and then either hire a car, take a taxi or get on the bus or train to Milazzo port. In Milazzo you catch one of ferries for the Aeolian islands.
Milazzo is also the best port to set off from, because unless there are really rough seas, one ferry or another leaves anyway.
For ferry schedules from Milazzo port to the Aeolian islands, click here.
There's also a company setting off from Naples to the Aeolian islands. For schedules, click here.
From May to September you can catch a fast boat from Naples to the Aeolian islands. Click here for schedules.
From Catania
By bus
Catch the bus from the town centre (Alibus: cost 4 euros per person) to Catania Airport. From Catania airport catch the bus to Messina and in Messina change for Milazzo. Click here for schedules.
By train
From Palermo
HOW TO GET AROUND
There are several ways to explore the islands and do the Aeolian island-hopping; however, if you want to experience nature, clear blue seas and water sports, I recommend taking a skipped sailing cruise.
Simply imagine: your skipper calls you while the boat is floating into a paradise bay. You can't avoid but jumping into the bluest sea ever, exploring the coastline and the fish. When you go back onto the sailing boat deck, you can enjoy the dramatic scenery while the waves are lapping gently on the boat hull... one of the most blissful experience in your life! And meanwhile your skipper has cooked pasta with sardines (Sicilian way)!
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| Sicilian-style pasta with sardines: our skipper's secret recipe! |
We booked our Aeolian sailing holiday here.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
LIPARI
TRATTORIA DEL VICOLO: located off the main Corso Vittorio and along one of Lipari's little alleys, we went for this white-clad restaurant where we had delicious busiate, a traditional Sicilian pasta (sort of long fusilli), with clams and pistachios, and tender grilled octopus with squid ink mayonnaise. Tip: sit at one of the tables outside, you'll watch the world go by.😜Click here.
RISTORANTE IL CORALLO: what I liked about the coral restaurant was the cozy and familiar atmosphere: sitting at tables covered by a lovely terrace outdoors. The whole sailing team felt looked after and the service was quick. We went for superb pasta eoliana which was swordfish pasta with the Aeolian sauce (capers and tomato). Click here.
PANAREA
HOTEL RAYA: perched on a stony stope, Hotel Raya has a beautiful terrace where you can savour your aperitiv and watch the sunset and Stromboli constantly puffing in the distance. We actually didn't eat there, but the aperitiv served with snacks (olives, cheese, etc.) was good enought to recommend it and go back. Great vibe and scenery with prices as high as you might expect. Click here.
STROMBOLI
IL CANNETO: the oldest restaurant in Stromboli where you can savour traditional Aeolian cuisine, mainly fish with a very friendly and helpful service. Address: Via Roma 64. Phone: 090 986014. Mail: ristoranteilcanneto@live.it
SALINA
DA ALFREDO: pane cunzato and granita are the two reasons to come and eat here. The first is the traditional Aeolian sandwitch: literally it means "seasoned handmade loaf "because the round panino is filled with any fresh Sicilian toppings you might think of (tomatoes, cheese, tuna, anchovies, capers, basil and of course olive oil). Actually, this sandwitch used to be the dish made to "empty the fridge" and, originally, it was considered a "poor" dish in the sense that people with little money used to eat it.
Granitas at Alfredo are the best not only in Salina but also in the Aeolian islands (at least amongst those I tried!). And it is a semiliquid dessert made of sugar, water and a variety of fresh ingredients and fruits that you can choose from (such as almond, pistachio or coffee).
MALVASIA WINE-PRODUCING COMPANIES: there are many Malvasia wine producers in Salina. However, you can visit these ones for a start: Carlo Hauner, Fenech, Caravaglio, Colosi and Tasca d'Almerita.
VULCANO
IL CASTELLO: located almost opposite the mud bath (don't worry, you won't smell the sulphur fumes) this is the perfect restaurant if you want to try Vulcano's cuisine: try the aubergines millefoglie or homemade pasta. Fast service and smiling staff.
HOTEL RAYA: perched on a stony stope, Hotel Raya has a beautiful terrace where you can savour your aperitiv and watch the sunset and Stromboli constantly puffing in the distance. We actually didn't eat there, but the aperitiv served with snacks (olives, cheese, etc.) was good enought to recommend it and go back. Great vibe and scenery with prices as high as you might expect. Click here.
STROMBOLI
IL CANNETO: the oldest restaurant in Stromboli where you can savour traditional Aeolian cuisine, mainly fish with a very friendly and helpful service. Address: Via Roma 64. Phone: 090 986014. Mail: ristoranteilcanneto@live.it
SALINA
DA ALFREDO: pane cunzato and granita are the two reasons to come and eat here. The first is the traditional Aeolian sandwitch: literally it means "seasoned handmade loaf "because the round panino is filled with any fresh Sicilian toppings you might think of (tomatoes, cheese, tuna, anchovies, capers, basil and of course olive oil). Actually, this sandwitch used to be the dish made to "empty the fridge" and, originally, it was considered a "poor" dish in the sense that people with little money used to eat it.
Granitas at Alfredo are the best not only in Salina but also in the Aeolian islands (at least amongst those I tried!). And it is a semiliquid dessert made of sugar, water and a variety of fresh ingredients and fruits that you can choose from (such as almond, pistachio or coffee).
MALVASIA WINE-PRODUCING COMPANIES: there are many Malvasia wine producers in Salina. However, you can visit these ones for a start: Carlo Hauner, Fenech, Caravaglio, Colosi and Tasca d'Almerita.
VULCANO
IL CASTELLO: located almost opposite the mud bath (don't worry, you won't smell the sulphur fumes) this is the perfect restaurant if you want to try Vulcano's cuisine: try the aubergines millefoglie or homemade pasta. Fast service and smiling staff.
WHAT TO DO
LIPARI
ARCHEO MUSEUM AND CASTLE: open daily from 9 am to 19.30 pm (Sunday only morning). 6 euros. Kids: 3 euros.
STROMBOLI
You go up with a specialised guide. You will hire the gear on the spot (torches, hiking shoes and helmets) before climbing. You also need a clothes change and lots of water as you climb for almost 900 mt. Depending on the tour company, cost is roughly 30 euros plus the cost of hiring the trekking gear.
Descent takes about 2 hours (roughly 1,300 mt height gain!). Hiking is not fit if you have heart problems, fear or heights, not stable on your feet and any kind of leg impairments.
SALINA
Daniela Taxi's son, Mirco, knows Salina like the back of his hand: if you want to have further info on the island, he is fun and knowledgeable to visit the island with. Address: Piazza Santa Marina Salina. Phone: 333 6167491.
VULCANO
GEOTHERMAL SWIMMING POOLS: 16 euros for 3 hours. Click here for more info.
MUD HOT SPRINGS: click here for more info.
RENTING SCOOTERS: 20 euros for half a day.
MORE IN DEPTH
More on Lipari's rich history.
Watch Rossellini's and Bergman's film "Stromboli, Terra di Dio".
More on the experience of climbing Stromboli.
More on Stromboli's fishermen life (short documentary).
More on the film "The Postman" featuring Salina.
More info on "cucunci" in Salina and the Slow Food Presidia.
More info on Salina.
Books set in Sicily, click here.
Films set in Sicily, click here.
If you have been to the Aeolian Islands in Sicily, do you have any feedback on this itinerary? Any places that we might have overlooked and they were really worth visiting? If I can help you, just drop me a line! What about a sailing holiday: have you ever wanted to do a sailing holiday? Let me know!
Thanks for reading!
OVER TO YOU NOW!
If you have been to the Aeolian Islands in Sicily, do you have any feedback on this itinerary? Any places that we might have overlooked and they were really worth visiting? If I can help you, just drop me a line! What about a sailing holiday: have you ever wanted to do a sailing holiday? Let me know!
Thanks for reading!
MarcoPoloSpirit
MarcoPoloSpirit is a native of Venice, Italy, but has also called Rome, Trieste, Madrid, London and Brussels home. After graduating and working abroad, finally she landed in Rome for some years and currently near Venice.
MarcoPoloSpirit is a native of Venice, Italy, but has also called Rome, Trieste, Madrid, London and Brussels home. After graduating and working abroad, finally she landed in Rome for some years and currently near Venice.
You can find @marcopolospirit (Instagram, and Twitter).