ANGUILLA (THE CARIBBEAN): MY FAVOURITE TROPICAL ISLAND THAT TAUGHT ME 5 LIFE LESSONS



ANGUILLA: A GOOD REASON TO GO

"Anguilla, Anguilla...where on earth is Anguilla?", I asked myself. I looked at my mobile screen. I was full of cold and my face had an ashen colour. The temperature outside was 2° C. Outside it was foggy, humid, and miserable. I looked again at my phone: "Anguilla", I said this time loudly, as if I was learning something new. "Anguilla: bright and sunny. 26° C (78° F), and raising."

It was April. I had to make up my mind and I had to take an important decision. In my life. However, that choice that I was supposed to make was a hard one, and I could not decide light-heartedly. My mind ran fast. "Anguilla, Anguilla...", I repeated. I leafed through a magazine, and at the bottom of the page I saw an advertisement of a shimmering stretch of sand.


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If you are dreaming of swimming in a glittering sea, Anguilla is your answer

I opened up my old world map (I love touching paper maps), and searched avidly for Anguilla. Where was it? The atlas showed me a small island, lost in the middle of nowhere. "More of an eye than an eel", I cried out thinking about the island name and shape. 


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Caribbean Map with Anguilla by Knusser

I saw Anguilla surrounded by blue water, the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. My atlas continued: "The most northerly of the Leeward Islands; an overseas British Dependent Territory". Would Anguilla help me?

Before Paolo, my husband, came home, I had already made up my mind, not on my life management though. We would go to Anguilla for an escape to the sun. I can't explain why, but I felt that Anguilla would be the place to find my solution.

In a cold winter morning we boarded our winter jackets, heavy scarves and woolen hats. We kept at hand our light T-shirts and flip flops. Away from the Venetian winter colds for a week, once we would set foot on Anguilla, we wouldn't need anything more.


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Just wear your bikini and your best smile


ANGUILLA IS BEYOND EXTRAORDINARY

Anguilla is beyond extraordinary, declared a board upon our arrival. Never had a slogan been more appropriate and a good omen for our vacation.

After a short crossing over from the island of Saint Martin to Anguilla Blowing Point Harbour, our ferry moored on the pier, full of cars and trolleys. 


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Anguilla Blowing Point Harbour 


Our taxi driver waved and smilled at us: "Welcome to Anguilla! Did you enjoy the blue water?", he asked proudly. Having gaped at the deep blue sea during our crossing, we couldn't argue against his claim.

We jumped into the car, heading to our next stop, our hotel. Leaning against the taxi windows, Anguilla hinterland appeared surprisingly flat and quite dry. The road was lined with trees and flat-roofed detached houses.

However, that was not the only surprise: the second unexpected twist was MV Sarah. Over Sandy Ground Bay, Anguilla yacht harbour, an imposing cargo wreck sat upright in the middle of the bay. 


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MV Sarah on the left hand side of the photo, just off the coast of Anguilla

"She stranded during one of the many hurricanes hitting the island", explained the hotel staff to me at the reception. She must be on the lookout for pirates, I thought. Apparently it is also a divers' heaven, together with Anguilla 33 spotless beaches.

SHOAL BAY EAST: FIFTY SHADES OF BLUE

If you are a sun-seeker like me, Anguilla will not fail to meet your expectations. The jaw-dropping sequence of long bays, coves and baby powder stretches of white sand provided me with a daily dose of happiness.

The perfect tropical postcard became real when I reached the heavenly beach of Shoal Bay East, an iconic stretch of sand praised by the world most important travel reviews.


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Shoal Bay East beach

Olive green bushes and palm trees separated the beach car park from the shoreline. A few steps and the dazzling beach opened up before us, uncrowded and tranquil.

We could spot all shades of its amazing blue palette. The turquoise sea and the blue sky colours met on the thin far-away horizon. At the end of the eastern end, Elodia's fire yellow beach bar was just opening.


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Elodia's yellow sun umbrellas in the foreground, the white soft sand and the gorgeous blue shades of the sea


We took off our flip flops in a hurry. Our toes made a crunching sound as we were walking along the soft yellowish-white shore. Someone must have spread a velvet stripe the previous night!

We spent that blissful day at the "Point" on the eastern side where the seashore meandered a litlle. We jogged, swam and snorkelled on the close-by reef. Though I wouldn't venture to say that the reef in Anguilla is the best in the world, Shoal Bay East reef was one of the best spots to snorkel around the island.


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Snorkelling at Shoal Bay East (yes, I am that small dot on the right hand side!)

If you are not so confident, you can still enjoy snorkelling in the shallow water and find lots of fish shoals with multi-coloured patterning!


LESSON FROM SHOAL BAY EAST

Nestling in our beach chairs was another great thing to do in Shoal Bay East: we were mesmerised by those blue shades and could not help being in awe with the landscape.


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Guess the correct name of all shades Blue? Nope, azure blue, royal blue...now you go on! 


"What would it happen if these grains of sand decided to walk away from the beach?", I asked teasing Paolo. He stared at me: the silly question had puzzled him. "I mean, the beach is so beautiful just because all these sand grains stick together, no matter how small they are. That's the secret of its beauty!", he concluded.

Lesson nr. 1: such a simple truth had never occurred to me. Knowing that I too had my place in the world, just like a sand grain, and that somehow I was meant to be there, was really inspiring.


THE BEST NIGHTLIFE IN ANGUILLA: HIT THE GROOVE AT SANDY GROUND

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Perfect recipe: take an Anguilla rum punch, shake it with some reggae and just add a pinch of Sandy Ground

What we learnt from Anguilla was that if you want to have a good time and a casual night out, you need to head to Anguilla harbour, Sandy Ground. The place was swarming with bars and restaurants, all ready to satisfy the most demanding foodies and party revelers.

I thought to myself: "That's the perfect spot to wind down after a day in the sun!". We got there at sunset and grabbed a sand-in-the-toe bar tables on the beachfront. The highlight of the place was watching the red fireball sun glowing and disappearing slowly into the sea.


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The sun has just gone down over Sandy Ground harbour



LESSON FROM SANDY GROUND 

"Are you in the groove?". Paolo was looking at me. I didn't look back as I was being seduced by what I saw and felt: the starry sky above my head and the sound of music which came to my ears muffled by the wave sound. Waves were lapping and breaking without stopping against the hulls of the boats moored on the bay.

"How do you think they see us from up there?", I asked Paolo without answering his original question. "Do you think that we look different from how we actually are?", I questioned him. 

Lesson nr. 2: I realised that very moment that distancing myself from my tough decisions and looking at them from a different standpoint was the key to my successful choice, whatever it would be. 

SANDY ISLAND: AN UNMISSABLE DAY CRUISE

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The day cruise to Sandy Island is an unmissable thing to do in Anguilla


Half a way through our vacation we jumped onto a boat and made a daily excursion to Sandy Island, an off-shore cay, just three miles off the Anguilla coast. Sandy Island makes you feel like Robinson Crusoe as it a sandbank driven by the currents on the top of a reef. 


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Sandy Island stands for sea, sun and sand

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Waiting for the boat crew to sail for Sandy Island


We joined the boat crew at Sandy Ground and set off with the staff who would open the bar and cook for the guests on the island. White coolers were loaded onboard together with heavy beer crates. The treasure troves hosted our food. The boat ride was very short and hilarious with the boat crew pulling jokes.


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Sandy Ground pier from the clifftop


It was weird to set foot on a tiny island in the middle of the sea, and in a single eye glimpse catch the whole island from end to end!

However, we learnt that such a fragile beauty had been lashed several times by hurricanes, and it was no wonder that nature had shaped how Sandy Island looked many times over the years.

The boat staff unloaded the boxes with the supplies and we started to "explore" the place: it is just 200 metres long by 70 metres wide! 

The rugged coastline full of corals was dotted with palms on the left hand side. The greenery shaded the colourful beach bar. The white powder sand was studded with shimmering seashell fragments. The Pirates of the Caribbean must have lost part of their loot on Sandy Island!

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Rocks and corals on Sandy Island 

We walked until the tip end of the island where there was a mix of rocks and corals. We could not believe our eyes: they had set up a volleyball net! Having being a pro volleyball player when Paolo was younger, he did not resist playing a match there. 

We scraped up a team among the bystanders and the bar staff at the end of their shift. Islanders v. visitors! Without doubt playing volleyball is one of the the things that you should be doing on Sandy Island!


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Playing volleyball is a fun thing to do on Sandy Island

The day went quickly between snorkelling session where the reef plummeted deep into the sea and the delicious grilled shrimp skewers with lime sauce at the sombrero-looking bar.


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Snorkelling in the swimming-pool like waters of Sandy Island

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Sandy Island bar: happiness is its motto!


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Seafood skewers, my favourite lunch

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Mexico? No, 100% Sandy Island!

LESSON FROM SANDY ISLAND

"I don't want to leave this island", I sad sadly to Paolo when the boat was ready to take us back to Anguilla. "We will be back.". Paolo tried to cheer me up. "Yes, we will be back sooner or later.", I whispered looking back at the volleyball net island in the middle of the sea.

Lesson nr. 3: Sandy Island and its story of patient reconstruction hurricane after hurricane taught me a great lesson. No matter whether you problem is as big as a storm or as small as a personal matter, you need to work hard to achieve your goals. 

However, your strength lies in never giving up. Ultimately there is always a volleyball net that is waiting for you somewhere!


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Breathing in the magic of Sandy Island

Knowing that I shared a common destiny to overcome hard times, doubts and find the right direction in life was the best souvenir from Sandy Island.


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Want to feel like a castaway? Sandy Island will point you to the right direction!


MEADS BAY  

Meads Bay beach in Anguilla turned out to be another enchanting spot. It could not be otherwise for a country surrounded by crystal clear waters. The shoreline was endless, wild and wide. The sea was as calm as a millpond. Occasionally a light breeze would ripple the surface.


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Unique colour spectrum with a soft breeze : can't beat this!


We enjoyed taking tons of photos and playing the colour guessing game. The translucent creamy colour of the water's edge sloping down turned into a cadet blue hue, and, finally, into a dark ocean blue.


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Taking photos of Meads Bay is one fun thing to do

The sky was azure blue, and the Four Season Resort (ex Viceroy) with its long shape was the only thing that distinguished the sea from the sky.

We walked past a couple of hotels and restaurants, all high-end businesses, and a majestic villa which was on sale. Apart from these establishments, there was nothing else on the beach. The beach appeared lonely as if the Arawak, the Amerindian population that first settled on the island, had just landed.


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Meads Bay all to ourselves: such luxury!



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A modern villa on sale on Meads Bay beachfront


However, when we approached the Four Season Resort, the glassy waves became rough where Meads Bay met Barnes Bay. The current looked quite strong, and no matter whether we really wanted to snorkel, in the end we gave up on trying.

LESSON FROM MEADS BAY

As we were walking near the beach, a man from the Four Season staff came up to us thinking we were going to need his help. "No, thanks. We are not going out. The sea is rough", I answered to his question whether we wanted a kayak. "You are wise", he said. "When the sea is choppy, just don't even think of going out", he added.

Lesson nr. 4: things can change very quickly, exactly like the sea at Meads Bay that went from calm to rough in a short time. I was dissapointed at first as I really wanted to dive; however, I would put my life at risk. 


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The weather can change very quickly as things in life sometimes do: just be positive, tomorrow the sun will be out again


When things don't go in the direction that we want, what makes a huge difference is our attitude. The biggest strenth is to stay positive and try another solution (or another day or side of the island!).


MAUNDAYS BAY 


Neighbouring with Cove Bay you have a fantastic crescent-shaped stretch. It is home to a luxury resort to which we asked for access and it was granted to us. 


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Maundays Bay: a fantastic moon-shaped beach which you shouldn't miss


The place was simply breathtaking, including the top facilities, posh beach bar, and the villas overlooking the seafront. Lots of natural sand dunes marked the end of the heavenly beach.


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Maundays Bay is lined with palm trees and sand dunes


We started chatting with a guy who was angle fishing from the shore. I have never fished in my life, but what he was doing seemed so easy. His fishing gear was a mere tree branch, a thread and some bread. The result was a huge amount of fish in his bucket. The task seemed effortless. 


LESSON FROM MAUDAYS BAY


"Is it a hard thing to do?", I enquired astonished. "Practice makes you perfect. Wanna try?", he offered. I was not really keen on fishing. However, watching this skilled angler won me over.


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The keen fisherman on Maudays Bay knew well  how to be successful

Lesson nr. 5: if that man performed so well at fishing was because he possibly had been practising that since he had been a child. I realised that key to all is practice and steady persistence. When we find something that we really love and keep on trying tirelessly, sooner or later we will be successful.


ANGUILLA: MY SERENDIPITY ISLAND

When we left Anguilla, I had finally taken my decision. I decided to stay put. My decision had been about accepting a job offer and moving abroad (without my family being able to follow me). 

The whole decision-making process had made me nervous and emotional at first. Now I was happy with myself and my face was serene again.

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Walking on velvety sand under a splendid sun: Anguilla is my peace of mind


My decision was shaped out of my Anguilla holidays and enlightening thoughts there. I observed the pristine nature there in its simple beauty and the inhabitants' life. Life was easy and uncomplicated there (or so it seemed to me). That helped me unexpectedly. Serendipity, I would call this. The path to a happy decision and life.


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The simple beauty of an inspiring sunset and pristine nature

Did I feel this way because of Anguilla or would I have experienced this on another tropical island? I would like to think that it was just Anguilla. 

On second thought not knowing exactly what you want can sometimes be a blessing.


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Serendipity is finding your answers on a tropical island

POST-HURRICANE IRMA

Anguilla turned out to be my favourite tropical island. However, since that holiday Anguilla was hit by Hurricane Irma in September 2017.

The category-5 hurricane blew at more than 180 miles an hour (300 kilometres and hour) and flooded away cars and houses.

The photos that you see in the blog were taken before Irma hit Anguilla, which means that many of the places may be no longer be open or look as the pictures show. Please ckick on the relevant links for information on the current status.

ANGUILLA IS BACK: COME IN. WE ARE OPEN!

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Come in, we are open for business!

After 4 months since that disaster Anguilla has been recovering quickly. Many facilities, restaurants, bars and hotels have reopened; others are due to reopen later in 2018.

The reconstruction process is still ongoing, and there are many projects to involve the whole community to contribute financially and to bring this island back to the tourism wold map. 

If you wish to know more about Anguilla reconstruction projects or support schools, foundations or elderly homes, click here or here.


IN BRIEF

BEST TIME TO VISIT

We visited Anguilla in late winter which was just the perfect time: the weather was fantastic, and there were no tourists. We had the island all to ourselves. 

For more information on Anguilla temperatures and weather, click here.

HOW TO GET THERE

We landed on the island of Saint Martin where we had spent some days as well. To get to Anguilla, we got on a public ferry from Maringot Harbour in Saint Martin to cross over to Anguilla. The ferry crossing took 30 minutes and we arrived at Blowing Port. The ferry left every hour. 

For an updated post-Irma timetable of public ferries, boat charters, air charter service between Saint Martin and Anguilla, and flights between Anguilla and San Juan Airport (Puerto Rico), please click here.

HOW TO GET AROUND

We rented a car because we wanted to tour the whole island independently and take our time. Anguilla is a left-driving country. Most of the roads were in good conditions before Irma storm. The roads leading to the beach were mostly dirt roads.

Upon exiting Blowing Point Harbour there is a taxi stand and car rentals. For more information on renting a car in Anguilla or taxis, click here or here

For an updated overview of which car rentals are operating post Hurricane Irma, click here.

If you are a biker, you can rent a bike here. However, biking in Anguilla is not recommended as there are no sidewalks. Moreover, you need to have strong legs as you need to ride uphill in some areas.


WHERE TO STAY

Anguilla is a high-end destination and, generally speaking, it is expensive, especially accomodation. It is the "hiding" enclave of many Hollywood stars, such as Robert De Niro, Sandra Bullock and Uma Thurman. So if you are looking for an upmarket accomodation, most of Anguilla hotels will tick all of your boxes.

However, we booked what is considered a "budget" inn, La Vue Boutique Inn. The apartment that we were given had self-catering facilities which was convenient if you wanted to be independent. You needed a car to reach the place or the beach as the hotel sits on the top of a hill.

For the current status of Anguilla accomodation after Irma, click here.

WHERE TO EAT


Anguilla is a gourmet destination. However, it is expensive to eat out in general, unless you want to eat snacks or fast food. I have listed only the restaurants and beach bars where we ate. 

Anguilla shares dishes with other Caribbean islands showing African and American influences. The main staple is Caribbean fish such as shellfish, or meat such as chickens, pork or mutton. 

Check here for restaurants and bars which are open for business after Hurricane Irma.


AFFORDABLE

E's oven, the Valley.

The restaurant was located on the Valley Road which crosses the island. The place looked authentic with lots of locals taking food away. 

The crayfish (kind of lobster) and the sirloin steaks were good. We were served in the open air dining area surrounded by lush plants.

Elodia's Beach Bar, Shoal Bay East.

We ate the so-called mahi-mahi burger for the first time, a dish that would come back many times during our stay. 


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Elodia's Beach Bar at Shoal Bay East Beach

Mahi-mahi is a common dish in the Caribbean: it is tender and has a very mild flavor. Eateries all over Anguilla cook it in different styles. I discovered that the name is also dolphinfish that is why it is often mistaken with the big mammals. Elodia serves a beach menu with cold beers and drinks.


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Beer choices: Red Stripe and President


MID RANGE

Elvis' Beach Bar, Sandy Ground.

This former boat, now converted into a bar at the very end of Sandy Ground, is buzzing with life. It offers a wide choice of beers and drinks. 



The menu was Mexican food (nachos). I would recommend it for an aperitif or for an after dinner drink. There is music and hammocks to relax on the beach.


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Hammocks and numbers plates at Sandy Ground Elvis' Bar


Gwen's Reggae Grill, Shoal Bay East.

This beach bar is fun on Sunday when the local scratch band plays reggae (with a cheese grater!), and we had dancing sessions and a groovy time! 

The place catered for the usual Anguillan cuisine with mahi mahi burgers, grilled snapper and BBQ ribs and chichen.

Tropical Sunset Restaurant and Bar, Shoal Bay East.



This beach bar served great food: coconut shrimps and a regional delicacy called conch (seashells) matched with mango coladas. We loved the hammocks hanging on the grape trees. 

Smokey's at the Cove, Cove Bay.



We had our best Anguilla's rum punch and the food, a conch salad, was good. The bar is beachfront facing the island of Saint Martin. It was very windy, so a few kitersurfers were enjoying themselves.

The Place, Rendezvous Bay.


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Sofas on Rendezvous beach to enjoy the great view


Free beach sofas, sun umbrellas and showers were available for restaurant guests (this is true of almost all of Anguilla beach bars if you eat there). Our food was excellent: ribs and fries, and swordfish burgers with pita bread.


EXPENSIVE

Sunset Lounge at Four Seasons Resort and Residencies (ex Viceroy), Meads Bay. 


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Sunset over the sea at Anguilla Four Seasons Resort


Prices are sky-high to stay there, but the sunset bar is accessible to anyone, so the place is just right to watch the sun setting on the Infinity Pool and have a cocktail at dusk.


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Having a drink while watching the sunset at the Sunset lounge bar will crown your sunny day


Blanchard Restaurant and Beach Shack, Meads Bay. 

The beach bar (we didn't try the restaurant) was unpretentious, but its acid green counter and blue wooden benches gave a personal touch to the toe-in-the-sand-bar. 


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May you always have a shell in your pocket and sand between your toes 

Food was catered mainly for burger lovers, but we enjoyed the kale salad and the excellent rum punch. A wooden board at the bar said: "May you alway have a shell in your pocket and sand between your toes." 


WHAT TO DO

BEACH HOPPING

Apart from the beaches mentioned in the blog, Anguillas offers many more fascinating beaches: Rendezvous Bay, Savannah Bay, Shoal Bay West, Cove Bay and Little Bay. 

In some beaches you paid the beach car park, unless you bought food from the beach bar running the car park.

WATERSPORTS

To book kiteboarding, stand up paddle boarding or kayak classes or rent equipment, click here.


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Water sports are among the favourite activities in Anguilla



HIKING AND CULTURAL SIGHTS

If you love hiking, nature or your children wants to explore the island outdoors, book a tour with the Anguilla National Trust experts. Their aim is to raise awareness and preserve the beaches, national heritage and cultural spots. 

MUSIC VENUE

The Dune Preserve was Anguilla's most famous reggae music spot. It was founded by Bankie Banx, a local folk singer and song writer who broke through abroad as a reggae star. His son, Omari Banx, a former member of Anguilla national cricket team, followed his father's footsteps too.


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The Dune Preserve

On the western shore of Rendezvous Bay they set up this unique bar made of driftwood, fishing nets and debris that the sea had thrown up. There was a sparkling vibe when we were there: Banx's soothing voice was the real highlight of the place.


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The bar was a boat and the tables were made of driftwood from the sea


For Bankie Banx's music, click here.

For Omari Banx's music, click here.


USEFUL SITES

For a detailed account of Anguilla beaches and life, click here.

For updates on Anguilla events, click here.