Molise (Italy): my art, food and hystory travel guide to Molise
MY ART, FOOD AND HISTORY TRAVEL GUIDE TO MOLISE, ITALY
When I lived in Rome, I thought many times of taking the train and going to Molise, to visit Campobasso and Isernia are the two main cities. It would have taken me about 4 hours, more or less because transport in Italy is not exactly the best things in Italy. However, I never did.
Now after so many years I have proposed it to Paolo as part of our summer tour 2021. I said to myself: why not? At the time, I saw Molise as a secret island, out of time and out of the world, and above all off the radar for most tourists, including Italians.
And then suddenly I wanted to dispel the famous motto: Molise does not exist! I don't know who launched "Il Molise non esiste", but I wanted stubbornly to disavow it in person. And so after our Basilicata coast to coast as they say, we headed straight to Campobasso.
Before leaving I had also read a nice article on Vanity Fair which explained to me how in the last two years, especially foreigners loved this region unknown to many Italians. So Molise is quietly gaining momentum and is set to be one of Italy's hottest destinations for the next years to come.
In this travel guide to Molise, I will share how to get there, where to stay, what to do, and where to eat.
Hope you enjoy it!
DAY 1: MARATEA - ALTILIA SEPINO ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE - CAMPOBASSO
ALTILIA SEPINO ARCHEO SITE AND TERRAVECCHIA
Stunning archeo site with museum. Not to be missed!
BOIANO AND BORGO DI CIVITA
Boiano is famous for the ...mozzarella and rafting on the Biferno river but Bojano is also art and culture: pleasant walks allow you to discover the countless churches present in the town; among the many, the ancient church of Sant'Erasmo, the Cathedral of San Bartolomeo, whose building spans a period of history of over two thousand years, the church of Santa Maria dei Rivoli built on the ruins of a Roman temple dedicated to Venus.
Also interesting to see are Palazzo Colagrosso, which houses the Civic Museum with two main sections: one archaeological and one of paleontology, a collection of fossils and a collection of Pinto with over two hundred historical artifacts.
BORGO DI CIVITA DI BOJANO (CIVITA SUPERIORE - UPPER CIVITA)
It is 8 minutes drive from Bojano A few kilometers where there are the ruins of the ancient Lombard castle, currently well preserved: there are enchanting corners and alleys full of charm.
CAMPOBASSO
In spite of its name, Campobasso, the capital of Molise, rises seven hundred meters above sea level, on the top of the Sant'Antonio hill, in the basin at the intersection of the Biferno and Fortore rivers, and surrounded by the Sannio and Matese mountains.
Of Lombard origins, the city has a fan-shaped structure with winding alleys and Romanesque stairways, typical of the upper town, which revolve around the Monforte Castle. The new city, on the other hand, was built in the Napoleonic era at the instigation of Gioacchino Murat, who had it built according to the nineteenth-century ideal of the garden city: elegant and stately buildings, in whose gardens there are sequoias, cedars of Lebanon, spruces, holm oaks , and numerous fountains.
Already elevated to the rank of "model city" by the king of Naples Carlo di Borbone in 1755, Campobasso is still today a green, livable and young city (seat of the only university in Molise), which must be visited on foot, to discover the Romanesque, Baroque or Neoclassical art, hunting for local souvenirs in the numerous artisan shops (from delicate bobbin lace work to costume jewelery), or enjoying live jazz music in one of the many wine bars in the historic center.
MONFORTE CASTLE:
It is the symbol of Campobasso and stands isolated on the hill of Monforte, the nucleus around which the city has developed over the centuries. Erected by the Normans, probably on a Lombard watchtower destroyed by the catastrophic earthquake of 1456, it was rebuilt in 1459 by Count Cola di Monforte, feudal lord of Campobasso. The Castle, with its massive structure, the quadrangular plan, the loopholes that open onto the white-gray limestone with which it was built, and its four cylindrical corner towers, dominates the city from above.
It can be reached via Viale delle Rimembranze and is worth a visit if only for the splendid view of the Matese and the Majella.
Inside, on the ground floor, the Memorial for the fallen of the two world wars and, in the highest tower, the meteorological station of the Air Force, in addition to the remains of the pre-existing Samnite walls.
Opening hours: 9:30 - 13 and 15:30-19:30
HOLY TRINITY CATHEDRAL
The Duke of Termoli Andrea di Capua wanted it in 1504. It is located outside the feudal walls, once the seat of the brotherhood of the Trinity (suppressed in 1809), famous in the seventeenth century for the rivalry against another brotherhood, that of the Crusaders.
Destroyed by the earthquake of 1805, it was rebuilt based on a project by the architect Berardino Musegna. Today it is the most representative church in the city. The façade is characterized by a neoclassical portico surmounted by a triangular pediment supported by four columns and two pillars on the sides.
Do not miss the paintings by Romeo Musa and Amedeo Trivisonno and the polychrome stained glass windows dedicated to St. Nicholas, St. Augustine, St. Anastasius and St. Hilary, protectors of the principle of the Trinity.
SANTO ANTONIO ABATE CHURCH
This church represents the highest expression of Campobasso's Baroque art, with its polychrome marble altars and late Renaissance style portal.
Inside are kept real jewels of art, such as the San Benedetto exorcising a possessed by Francesco Guarino, the seventeenth-century organ decorated with carving and the four side altars covered with pure gold.
In the square it overlooks, located in front of the Porta di Sant’Antonio, on 17 January a large bonfire is lit in honor of the saint to whom it is named.
SAINT GEORGE CHURCH
It dates back to the 12th century and is the oldest church in the city. Dedicated to the patron saint of Campobasso and located at the beginning of Viale della Rimembranza, on the site of a previous temple dedicated to Hercules, it is characterized by a sober Romanesque façade, with a circular window instead of the rose window and the curious symbolic decorations of the lunette on the entrance portal (they depict a cruciferous lamb surrounded by bunches of grapes and flowers).
The interior consists of three naves and has a roof of cross and barrel vaults.
SAN BARTOLOMEO
Built in the thirteenth century, the church was restored four centuries later, losing its original Romanesque structure. Its façade has three entrances, among which the median one appears particularly rich, which houses in the lunette a relief with a cruciferous lamb and a blessing Christ. Inside, a crucifix and a holy water stoup from the sixteenth century. Nose up to admire the single-lancet windows of the bell tower.
SAN LEONARDO
Built in the fourteenth century in Romanesque-Gothic style, in medieval times it was the main church of the city, halfway between the Castle and the base outside the walls. The mid-fifteenth century earthquake heavily damaged it and over the centuries it has undergone several renovations. Today of the Romanesque original, it retains a portal with a pointed arch and a single lancet window decorated with floral motifs.
THE THEATRE
Built in the 1920s on the area of the former Margherita theater, it was inaugurated in 1926 with the representation of Puccini's Tosca. Recent restorations have restored splendor to the Liberty-style interiors, especially the frescoes in the foyer, vault and corridors.
The building on the outside does not show any particular characteristics: the shapes are linear and simple, to characterize it is only the theory of the windows; inside, in addition to the horseshoe-shaped stalls, it has four tiers of boxes, reachable by two stairways that branch off from the foyer.
SANNITE MUSEUM
It is located in the historic center and has been housed since 1995 in the ancient Palazzo Mazzarotta. It exhibits finds from various eras from all over Molise. Among the most interesting pieces, the reconstruction of the burial of a knight and his horse dating back to the Lombard period and relating to the excavation of the necropolis of Campochiaro.
This museum is divided into four sections: the first dedicated to women's and men's jewelery; the second focused on household utensils; the third dedicated to knives, weights and ceramics; and the fourth to military vestments and objects related to funeral rites (via Chiarizia 12, tel. 0874.412265). On the page www.musei.molise.beniculturali.it you can upload the museum's online guide.
Opening hours: 9 - 13 30 and 14 - 17:30
MUSEUM OF THE MINIATURES “G. Colitti "
Founded in 1932 by the collector Guido Coletti and housed inside Villa Coletti, the museum contains about 400 miniature nativity scenes, some created by the founder himself and others originating from other parts of the world. Many of these nativity scenes are quite original and were made with different materials: wood, cardboard, terracotta, mother of pearl, cork and majolica. Noteworthy is the collection of 18th and 19th century shepherds made by Neapolitan artists (Piazza della Vittoria 4).
MUSEUM OF MYSTERIES
In the historic center, the museum is dedicated to the most representative folkloristic event in the city. Managed by the "Mysteries and Traditions" Association, it exhibits the costumes and structures that are used in the Festival of the Mysteries, a Campobassan celebration of Corpus Domini that attracts millions of tourists every year.
The fulcrum of the event is the parade of the so-called Mysteries, real load-bearing structures created in the eighteenth century by Paolo Saverio Di Zinno and modeled thanks to a very flexible and resistant alloy. Each Mystery hosts figures who give life to an episode from the Bible, while the structure is carried on the shoulders of numerous volunteers.
The museum has two exhibition rooms and a projection room. Open every weekday from 4 to 6 pm. Free admission (via Trento 3).
Opening hours: 9 - 11 and 16-18
VILLA DE CAPOA
The municipal villa of Campobasso was born in the eighteenth century: a wrought iron gate opens onto a classic-style park in which large tree-lined avenues intersect with paths bordered by evergreen hedges, and marble benches offer shelter in the shade of sequoias, cedars of Lebanon, cypresses, spruces and limes. The entrance is from Piazza Savoia.
The presence of red maples in the city was one of the elements that during the Occupation led the Allied troops to rename Campobasso Canada Town. The bombings of the Second World War and the "Battle of Campobasso" in 1943 between Canadian and German troops led to the destruction of several public buildings (including the town hall), but the subsequent Canadian occupation made the city a very important center for the allied forces , which in addition to coining the name Canada Town also gave English names to streets, squares and parks. After the war, of course, the toponymy returned to Italian and today the only remaining evidence of that period is the inscription Scarth St, imprinted by Canadian soldiers on a building in Piazza Gabriele Pepe, and now protected by a Plexiglas plate, accompanied by from a caption that tells the story.
THE MURALS OF CAMPOBASSO
But the walls of Campobasso also tell another story: a story of redemption through art. With the Murals, which have become an attraction for tourists from all over the world. After the Street Art Festival Draw the line of 2011, organized by the Malatesta Association, the Street Art works, created by international artists are changing the face of entire popular districts of the city, transforming Campobasso (according to the Anci) into a real own open-air Art Gallery. Some works have been cited in the annual rankings of Widewalls, the art platform that is a point of reference for artists, enthusiasts and gallery owners.
SHOPPING:
Perforated steel
FOOD AND WINE
Pietracatella cheese
Trufle centre of Molise
Amaretti, mostaccioli
Biferno doc wine
WHERE TO STAY IN CAMPOBASSO FOR 4 NIGHTS
Casa Santiago, Campobasso
DISTANCE
Maratea - Altilia Sepino: 3 hours and 15 minutes
Altilia - Boiano: 15 minutes.
Bojano - Civita: 10 minutes.
Bojano - Campobasso: 20 minuti
DAY 2: CAMPOBASSO - GAMBATESA CASTLE - RICCIA TOWER - FERRAZZANO
GAMBATESA CASTLE
The small village of Gambatesa has always been a border area between the mountainous reliefs of Molise and the plateau of the Tavoliere delle Puglie. Its history is traced first by the Samnites and then by the Romans.
And it is right around the Castle, originally a defense and sighting tower, that a fortified village developed. The name derives from the first known feudal lord in the area, Riccardo di Pietravalle (13th century), called “Gambatesa” due to the physical defect that characterized it.
Walking through narrow streets and panoramic alleys, you reach the heart of the ancient village of Gambatesa, where the imposing castle stands, once a military fortress, then transformed, in 1500, into an elegant stately home by the Di Capua family.
The Castle of Capua still preserves a complete and well-preserved cycle of frescoes inside, executed by Donato Decumbertino in the year 1550. A pupil of Vasari, during his stay in Naples and Rome.
Opening hours:
• Tuesday to Saturday from 9.00 to 19.00
• Sunday from 8.00 to 19.00
Closed on Mondays tel. 0874.719261
Contact details: Dr. Di Cera tel. 0874.431350
e-mail: vittoriadicera@beniculturali.it
RICCIA AND ITS TOWER
The main attraction of Riccia is certainly its historic center, in which there is an area of medieval origin and another that developed around the 18th-20th century. Here, in the area called Piano della Corte, stands the imposing cylindrical tower, the only surviving testimony of the medieval Di Capua castle.
A few meters away is the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie inside which there is the burial chamber of the Di Capua. Equally impressive is the Church of the Assumption, equipped with a renowned portal. Inside there is a valuable wooden painting depicting the Madonna degli Apostoli and referable to the Renaissance period, and the relics of San Vitale, moved from Rome and arrived in Riccia in 1755.
Finally, the Church of the Annunciation, known for its beautiful facade enriched with columns and refined bas-reliefs, some elegant windows and portals of nineteenth-century private homes. The main altar of the building was consecrated by Cardinal Orsini, who later became Pope in 1716.
FOOD
In addition to wines, cheeses, oil and sausages, the Amaro Molise deserves a special mention, produced with 32 types of herbs and local roots. In local inns and restaurants we recommend that you order spaghetti with anchovies, walnuts and breadcrumbs or stuffed pickled peppers, prepared with stale breadcrumbs, walnuts, anchovies, garlic, oil, parsley and raisins. Equally tasty is the rice with milk, cooked with cinnamon, vanilla and lemon peel, while the tuna meatballs are the most loved dish by the locals.
FERRAZZANO
The location is a pivotal point on the ancient communication routes of Molise, and allows you to get lost in a panorama that ranges from the Mainarde chain to that of the Matese, up to the Maiella, as well as over the city of Campobasso. Surrounded by a dense and shady pine forest, the village of Ferrazzano does not only offer visitors glimpses of great beauty, but tells of the need to protect homes from the cold and winter wind in the old part of the town.
It is an intricate union of winding alleys and ups and downs, where the stone houses join one another precisely to cope with the harsh temperatures, while the castle and the remains of the imposing fortified walls bear witness to the medieval past of the town.
CARAFA CASTLE IN FERRAZZANO
Among the points of interest of Ferrazzano there is the Carafa castle, one of the most important castles of Molise, declared of particularly significant interest with a decree of the Ministry of Cultural and Environmental Heritage in 1981: witness of historical events, many rumors have fueled legends and stories that are still present in popular memory today.
The Castello of Carafa can be contacted: fpilla@libero.it or +393925999009
CHURCH OF SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA
Another interesting architecture to visit is the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its romantic portal, the precious pulpit resting on four columns and the baptismal font. Currently seven altars enrich the side walls with the statues of San Rocco, the Virgin, St. Anthony, St. Michael, the Most Holy Crucifix, the Sacred Heart of Jesus, and St. Joseph. Note the pulpit made of Siena-colored marble.
LOTO THEATRE
Also noteworthy is the interesting reality of TFS LOTO (Tribeca Ferentinum Studio - Libero Opificio Teatrale Occidentale), also called Teatro del LOTO: a small scenic jewel, considered by many to be "The most beautiful little theater in Italy". Born from the desire to recover an old parish hall from the late 1950s with an architectural transformation, it has been renovated following the principles of Feng Shui, combining East and West.
DISTANCE
Campobasso - Gambatesa: 30 minutes
Gambatesa - Riccia: 30 minutes
Riccia - Ferrazzano: 40 minutes
Ferrazzano - Campobasso: 10 minutes
DAY 3: CAMPOBASSO - ORATINO - CASTROPIGNANO - TRIVENTO - CIVITACAMPOMARANO - LARINO
ORATINO
Oratino is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
It is famous for the art of carved stone its emblem, an art expressed over the centuries in the works of numerous sculptors, painters, gilders.
Over the course of its history, Oratino has undergone the succession of several owners including D'Ardicourt, di Lando, Pietro di Sus, D'Evoli, the Rizzo barons of Naples, the Coscia family. In the first half of the seventeenth century, the fiefdom was sold to the Duke Giordano and it was mainly thanks to Gennaro Girolamo Giordano that the buildings of the city were embellished by the skilful work of different artists, who make this city a unique example of its kind in the whole Molise region.
Oratino has a ring structure and the historic center is a real jewel that has regained the original charm of a medieval village thanks to an appreciable restoration.
Virtually all the portals of the houses in Oratino are enriched with decorations obtained from stone carving, which testify to the historical and still living tradition of the stonecutters. At one time many families owned a quarry and the artistic technique of stonecutters was handed down from father to son. Few people know that Oratino's stonecutters paved Budapest and contributed to the decorative enrichment of the Shrine of Castelpetroso, not far away and easily accessible (41 km).
In the historic center you can admire the Church of Santa Maria Assunta, of medieval origins, but remodeled over the centuries. Inside, in the vault of the central nave, we find a fresco by Ciriaco Brunetti (1791), which depicts the Assumption of the Virgin.
FOOD AND WINE
Do not miss Olmicello restaurant!
CASTROPIGNANO
In the heart of Molise, in the province of Campobasso, the town of Castropignano is worth a visit, rich in history and charm. Embraced to a hill overlooking the Biferno Valley, it offers an atmosphere of other times in the charming historic center where you can admire the Church of San Salvatore with the Romanesque portal embellished with cherubs' faces, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie with its sixteenth-century portal , the silent alleys, the low houses and the imposing Castello d'Evoli, built on a rocky ridge overlooking the Biferno river. Here the Lucera-Castel di Sangro country path crosses the Biferno in an ideal stretch for walking or horseback riding.
TRIVENTO
It is one of the most beautiful villages of Italy.
Immersed in the pristine greenery of the Trigno valley, perched on a gentle hill, the village of Trivento is a small gem of rare beauty. In its historic center you can admire the Palazzo Comitale, surrounded by high walls and rich, inside, with splendid frescoes.
Among the best known beauties of the small village there is certainly the long staircase which has 365 steps. The other is the Cathedral of Saints Nazario, Celso and Vittore built on an ancient temple and below the Cript of San Castro divided into 7 naves. Definitely worth seeing are the Palazzo Comitale and the Church of San Nicola di Bari. But the main feature, which fills the architectural beauties of the village and envelops the visitor, ideally transporting him to an archaic past, is stone. Everywhere the stone is sovereign, thus making the atmosphere that permeates the town at the same time suggestive and evocative.
CIVITACAMPOMARANO
Another beautiful village is Civitacampomarano with just 600 people. The main monument of this village is the Angevin Castle. The construction of this structure dates back to 1300 and is protected by 4 perfectly preserved towers. Inside you can admire a medieval fountain, the rooms of the lords and the prisons in the basement.
Among the alleys of the village it is possible to visit the remains of the Merchant's House which dates back to the 18th century: from the arched door local products were sold. At the top of the Cavatella cliff you can admire the Church of San Giorgio Martire with a splendid marble bas-relief inside. Nearby, the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie is also worth a visit, with a baptismal font of great artistic value, as well as a magnificent altarpiece in worked wood and gold and a very rare canvas of the Holy Family.
It has become famous for its street art festivals!
LARINO
Larino is and has always been one of the most important centers of Molise. Ancient capital of the Frentani (the original name was in fact Frentanum, or a tribe of the Samnites) its origin is certainly prior to the foundation of Rome, from which it was destroyed.
Later it changed its name to Larinum. The favorable position has always allowed consistent residential settlements. Nowadays we can visit "two Larino": the old Larino is downstream, while the recent development has affected an area higher up.
The importance of this center is immediately understood from the numerous monuments present, both in the old Larino and in the new part. In the first one are to visit the Cathedral of San Pardo, the churches of Santo Stefano, Santa Maria della Pietà and San Francesco, as well as the Palazzo Ducale.
About a kilometer from the ancient center there are, however, the ruins of the ancient Larinum, consisting of an amphitheater, Roman houses and villas that still retain fine mosaics
Precious finds are preserved in the Palazzo Ducale, which also houses the library and the Civic Museum
DISTANCE
Campobasso - Oratino: 15 minutes
Oratino - Castropignano: 20 minutes
Castropignano - Trivento: 30 minutes
Trivento - Civitacampomarano: 40 minutes
Civitacampomarano - Larino: 40 minutes
Larino - Campobasso: 1 hour
Ferrazzano - Campobasso: 10 minutes
DAY 4: CAMPOBASSO - PIETRACUPA - SANTA MARIA DEL CANNETO (CHURCH) - BAGNOLI DEL TRIGNO - PIETRABBONDANTE
SANTA MARIA DEL CANNETO SANCTUARY
Immersed in the uncontaminated nature of Molise, in a wonderful position in the Trigno valley, stands one of the most important religious complexes in the region: the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Canneto (or, more commonly, the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Canneto), in Roccavivara, in the province of Campobasso.
Destination for pilgrims from all over the world, the complex is much more than a simple church: it is a real oasis of peace and beauty where time seems to have stopped.
Crossing the gate at the entrance to the sanctuary, you enter a suspended space: surrounded by fragrant oleanders and evergreen plants, you can feel all the loving care of the Franciscan sisters who take care of the place.
The church has recently been restored and, behind it, the remains of a Roman villa are visible, testifying to the importance of the site over the centuries and its continuity of use and life. It is a rustic villa dating back to at least the 1st century AD, intended for agricultural activities related to the cultivation of vines and olive trees.
The church was built on a pre-existing building of worship in the 11th-12th century by the Benedictines of San Vincenzo al Volturno. With its linear and simple beauty, it has a sloping facade and a Romanesque portal. On the side stands a bell tower dating back to the fourteenth century. In the external walls there are tombstones and Roman inscriptions.
The interior has three naves, ending with three apses; the pillars and columns have variously decorated capitals. Behind the altar, the polychrome wooden statue of the Madonna di Canneto (14th-15th century) stands out. There are also two noteworthy sculptural works: the pulpit and the bas-relief of the Last Supper.
PIETRACUPA
Pietracupa is a town located in the heart of Molise and in what is known as the Parco delle Morge. Tiny town in the province of CampobassO. In fact, it is called the "Bethlehem of Molise" due to the presence of a magical cave in which, during the Christmas period, one finds oneself living a rather realistic Nativity. Dominating it there is a majestic spur of rock that can be climbed via a special iron staircase, to admire and photograph a surrounding landscape that is nothing short of extraordinary.
BAGNOLI DEL TRIGNO
The town is located in the heart of Molise, in the province of Isernia, and was built on a hilly relief close to a rocky massif that divides the Trigno river from the Vella stream. The incredible location in which it stands has made Bagnoli del Trigno an unprecedented tourist attraction. In fact, it is like observing a toy carved from the rock by the hands of a giant, and the linearity of the buildings is a characteristic element of the village.
Being located at two different heights, starting from 660 meters of altitude up to 783 meters of the highest point, the village is socially and culturally divided into two areas, respectively called Terra di sotto and Terra di sopra. Walking along the streets that branch off from the historic center to the entire town is like taking a real journey through time. Only 700 people live there, and the pace here is still as slow as in the past.
In the lower area you can admire the parish church of Santa Maria Assunta, the largest religious building in the country. Dating back to the 18th century, it was closed to the public for some years due to the damage suffered by the 2009 L’Aquila earthquake. The Church of Santa Caterina d’Alessandria is also very fascinating: it is the oldest and rises just under a rocky ridge. It was probably built at the turn of the twelfth and thirteenth centuries, but the architraved portal was restored in the Renaissance period, as is also evident from the ornamental friezes that stand out.
Going up with your eyes, you can only be struck by the bell tower of the Church of San Silvestro Papa, perched on the rocky spur overlooking Bagnoli del Trigno. Built between the 12th and 14th centuries, the church is literally wedged between two rocks and only the side walls and the main access portal remain visible, characterized by a Romanesque-Gothic style. The bell tower, as we said, is certainly what catches the eye: it has a quadrangular plan and is set in the rock, but stands out for its onion-shaped roof covered in colored majolica. Other milestones for those visiting the village are the war memorial, in the center of Piazza Umberto I, and the Fonte Vecchia, the historic wash house consisting of a large central basin with stone block cladding.
What enchants tourists most of all, however, is the ducal castle of San Felice, which stands imposingly on the top of the rocky mountain that surrounds the town behind it. Like a solitary guardian who watches over Bagnoli del Trigno, the fortification dates back to the 11th century and was built during the Norman rule of the Beraldo family. In a strategic position to dominate the entire surrounding valley, the castle had important defensive functions. But slowly it lost its fundamental role and was abandoned, until an impressive restoration began.
The work carried out on the ruins of the castle led to the discovery of numerous expansion areas that were added over the centuries, when the building passed from a defense bastion to a stately home. Examples are the sixteenth-century access portal, the space overlooking the valley and the upper courtyard with garden. Today, to get to the castle you can walk along the San Felice staircase: although built in modern times, it respects the classic style of the past thanks to the cobblestones. It is a winding road, which starts from the Church of Santa Maria Assunta and takes us to the highest point in town, but it really deserves a little effort.
PIETRABBONDANTE
In the upper Molise, at 1027 meters above sea level, the village is set between three huge boulders called "morge" at the foot of Monte Caraceno (1,250 m). Its houses are leaning against the bare rock, as if to seek shelter in the arms of the mountain. Its name, Pietrabbondante, recalls the presence of live rocks, majestic limestone blocks emerging from the ground.
These rocks are of naturalistic interest, because fossil shells are often found on them, and of interest for climbing enthusiasts who practice free climbing there. On one of the highest massifs you can recognize the remains of a castle. On the Morgia dei Corvi and Monte Saraceno, however, there are pre-Roman fortifications.
The whole historic center is worth a visit, the urban structure of the village is medieval, the oldest houses were built using stone blocks from the nearby archaeological site of Samnite origin. On the slope of Monte Saraceno, the people of the Samnites, in the II-I century BC, built a majestic cult complex consisting of a temple, two porticoed buildings and a theater that could have held 2,500 spectators, it has been calculated that the acoustics were perfect. Those who entered, passed the gate, passed under the arch and took their places on the stone seats. Once seated, they faced the stage dominated by the prospect of the scenic building with three doors that led to the actors' dressing rooms.
DISTANCE
Campobasso - Santa Maria del Canneto: 45 minutes
Santa Maria del Canneto - Pietracupa: 30 minutes
Pietracupa - Bagnoli del Trigno: 20 minutes
Bagnoli del Trigno - Pietrabbondante: 30 minutes
Pietrabbondante - Campobasso: 1 hour
DAY 5: CAMPONASSO - ISERNIA
ISERNIA
Isernia represents one of the first sites of human settlement in Europe: the city was inhabited since the Paleolithic and the archaeological finds of the area are dense and important. The territory of Isernia develops on the Molise Apennines and is surrounded by mountains. Both in terms of landscape, art and culture, Isernia offers vast perspectives making the visit of its historic center and the surrounding area highly enjoyable.
Morning - Start your visit to Isernia by having breakfast at the Central Bar, in the historic center, located in the same square as the Cathedral. After your breakfast, visit the interior of the Cathedral of San Pietro Apostolo and the adjacent arch of San Pietro. Walking along Corso Marcelli you can admire the Palazzotto and Palazzo San Francesco, now the Town Hall, until you reach the Museum of Santa Maria delle Monache.
Afternoon - Have your lunch enjoying the typical dishes of the territory at km 0. After that, continue your visit of the city passing near the church of San Pietro Celestino. At the end of corso Marcelli, take via Ippolito to immediately turn right into strada del Breccione: about 500 meters from you you will find the Sanctuary of Santi Cosma e Damiano. After your visit to the hermitage, you can walk for 2 km until you reach the National Museum of the Paleolithic in La Pineta.
Evening - At the end of your visit to the National Museum of the Paleolithic, head to the centre where you can have dinner. After dinner, continuing along via Lorusso you can reach piazza Carducci where you will find the Fontana della Fraterna.
Here more in detail
Arch of St. Peter
The arch of San Pietro is a square Gothic tower, with pointed arches and a clock placed on the top. Above are the bells that serve for the church dedicated to St. Peter and the one dedicated to St. Paul. The structure of the tower is not original of the time, unlike the base which dates back to the 9th century. The four statues present at the internal corners of the arches come from the area of the ancient Roman forum.
Cathedral
The Cathedral of Isernia stands on the site of an ancient pagan temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva, of which the remains are preserved under the current church, built in the Greek-Byzantine style in the early medieval period. Over the centuries the church has suffered considerable damage and has been renovated several times, partially modifying its original appearance.
The earthquake of 1805 completely destroyed it and it was later rebuilt larger than the previous one. During the renovations carried out following the bombing of the Second World War, the remains of the ancient temple emerged, on which today there is a completely glass floor.
Fraternal Fountain
The pearl of the historic center, a symbol of Isernia, is considered one of the most beautiful fountains in Italy. It is built entirely of limestone blocks taken from ancient buildings present in the city at the time of construction.
The structure is made up of circular columns with a plate in the center decorated with flowers and dolphins, from which seven jets of crystal clear water come out.
Roman aqueduct
Built around the third century, it is one of the best preserved Roman engineering works in Isernia. The water comes from outside the city to be channeled at the north gate in the historic center inside a well. Another river of water flows under the entire town to supply water to the fountains and houses in the city.
Church of Santi Cosma e Damiano
It is located on a hill just outside the town. It stands on the ashes of a temple dedicated to Priapus, a god of Greek and Roman mythology known for his length of the penis, therefore the protector of virility. Inside there are numerous frescoes depicting the daily life of the two medical saints Cosma and Damiano, all adorned with a magnificent wooden coffered ceiling.
Church of Santa Chiara
Founded around 1300, it was part of the nearby convent until the early 1800s. It is one of the most important churches in Isernia and houses the statue of the Sorrows. Each year the statue is carried around the city during the Good Friday procession. During the First World War it was used to keep prisoners of war.
Church of Santa Maria delle Monache
It is the oldest monument in the city. In the southern part of the historic center is the former Benedictine monastery of S. Maria delle Monache with the adjoining church of Maria Assunta. Until 1868 the monastery housed the Benedictine order, but then later served as barracks and prison. Today there is an archaeological museum inside the former convent. It contains historical artifacts from the entire region and the civic library is also located there.
WHERE TO STAY IN ISERNIA
Residenza Portacastello, Isernia
DAY 6: ISERNIA - AGNONE - PESCOLANCIANO -
AGNONE
The Church of San Francesco, with the adjoining convent dates back to the fourteenth century, is one of the main ones in Agnone and is characterized by a typical Gothic portal, surmounted by a beautiful rose window. To shelter the structure, a splendid drum dome and a bell tower that rises with a wrought iron tip. The church inside boasts decorations by Ambrosio Piazza and frescoes by Paolo Gamba. The convent instead has a beautiful cloister adorned with paintings on the life of St. Francis and houses the municipal library.
The Church of Sant’Emidio, dating back to the fourteenth century, is characterized by its Gothic style portal and the presence, inside, of masterpieces by Monteverde, Colombo, and the Dupré family. The 12 life-size wooden statues of the apostles are very beautiful.
The permanent exhibition of the ancient book, which is located inside the Palazzo San Francesco, and which collects very rare volumes.
What to visit in Agnone if not its splendid historic center, which contains a real medieval village, with Venetian-style architecture? If you venture along the streets of the village, you will notice the typical Venetian shops, with numerous stone statues representing lions.
What makes this village famous all over the world is the Agnone Bell Museum, which is accompanied by the Pontifical Foundry of Campane Marinelli, which still produces its own bells with the technique used since medieval times. In these environments it is possible to know the secrets of this ancient art, as each stage of processing is reconstructed. The museum also houses a huge collection of manuscripts and documents on the production of bells, as well as the largest collection of sacred bronzes in the world, as well as ancient tools. All stages of processing are then illustrated.
Another pearl of this village is the Copper Museum of Agnone, born from an idea of the Gerbasi family, a historic dynasty of coppersmiths of one of the typical arts of these lands. The museum is a real journey through the history of a never forgotten work and tells the story of a people who built their wealth precisely on copper processing. In the rooms, the rooms of the time are reconstructed in great detail, with the original equipment, collected by the family in a century and a half of work.
FROSOLONE
An ancient village perched on a promontory between terraces and steep valleys, Frosolone retains a picturesque old town with characteristic squares, numerous churches of medieval origin and artisan shops where the working of steel in exclusive works of art is in full swing. The Museo dei Ferri Taglienti hosts an interesting exhibition of manufacturing excellence related to metal and is a laboratory where to observe its forging.
DISTANCE
Isernia - Agnone: 40 minutes
Agnone - Frosolone: 50 minuti
Frosolone - Isernia: 40 minutes
DAY 7: ISERNIA - VENAFRO - SAN VINCENZO AL VOLTURNO - CASTELPETROSO
VENAFRO
Venafro, also known as Porta del Molise, is the fourth largest city in the region for inhabitants and also one of the most beautiful and characteristic. It was once annexed to Campania, with which it borders, the position just 61 kilometers from Caserta affects above all some linguistic-cultural characteristics.
The village of Venafro is surrounded by walls and has its highest point in the Pandone Castle, of Lombard origin, which houses the National Museum of Molise, custodian of works of the regional territory of great historical value.
The town stands at the foot of Mount Santa Croce and is located at a height of 222 meters above sea level, on a plain surrounded by mountains. For this reason, the climate is sub-continental, with average cold winters, with temperatures that even drop below zero at night. Summer, on the other hand, is very hot, with peaks of even 36-38 degrees. The intermediate seasons, spring and autumn, are instead characterized by frequent rainfall, often very abundant.
Venafro is also known as the "city of 33 churches", due to the large number of religious buildings present on its territory, some of which are closed to worship and abandoned.
The co-cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta dates back to the 5th century and was built under the bishop Constantine on the remains of a pagan temple. The most important religious building in the city is located at the foot of the Oraziano Park, the historic agricultural regional park of the olive tree in Venafro.
Among the other churches worthy of a visit, there is the church of the Annunziata, a beautiful example of Baroque architecture, whose original construction dates back to the fourteenth century, with its frescoed dome visible from every corner of the city.
In the modern center of Venafro we find the Roman amphitheater, which has however undergone some medieval and seventeenth-century overlaps, the Roman theater, located upstream of the last decumanus, and numerous historical remains, including traces of a Roman aqueduct, of the city walls of Samnite era and some medieval finds.
SAN VINCENZO AL VOLTURNO ABBEY
The Abbey of San Vincenzo al Volturno is located in the area that goes from Castel San Vincenzo to Rocchetta a Volturno (IS), in the Upper Volturno Valley.
This is where the ancient Benedictine monastery of San Vincenzo al Volturno once stood, one of the most important of the Middle Ages.
Visiting the archaeological area, you will be able to admire in particular the frescoes of the Epiphanius Crypt, one of the most important examples of early medieval European painting.
Its heart is the so-called new abbey, a building with a rectangular longitudinal plan with 3 naves divided into 2 rows of 12 columns, ribbed cross vaults, preceded by an atrium. The salient facade, marked by buttresses. it is in Romanesque style, has a round main portal, is flanked by a bell tower and in the center at the top has a large oculus.
The monastery was built in a fortified enclosure of which some remains are still visible today, together with those pertaining to a defense tower to the south-east. Its interior is divided into different areas that correspond to the various segments that make up the life of the cloistered nuns who live there.
CASTELPETROSO
The castle was designed by the Lombards and - after numerous changes of ownership - became the symbol of Castelpetroso. Today inside there is a museum of peasant civilization with ancient furnishings, agricultural tools, medals, photographs, paintings and objects of various kinds, and there is also a 16th century Molise nativity scene whose elements all refer to folklore.
Today, however, the real symbol of Castelpetroso is its sanctuary, the Basilica Minore dell’Addolorata. Its story begins on March 22, 1888, when for the first time the Virgin appeared to two local peasant women while they were looking for a lost sheep: one of the two women saw Mary of Sorrows appear, half kneeling and with her dead Son at her feet, looking towards the high and open arms in the act of offering.
On 26 September of the same year, the then bishop of Bojano went to the place of the apparition and had the grace of seeing - he too - Our Lady of Sorrows. Thus, the construction of that basilica began, which will only be consecrated in 1975.
Today, the Basilica Minore dell’Addolorata is a pilgrimage destination from every corner of Italy. The most suggestive way to reach it? Along the Tobia Path, which combines the religious theme with the naturalistic theme and which represents an important work of safeguarding and enhancing the area. Inaugurated in 2011, the path sees a succession of eleven wooden panels that each describe a stage in Tobias's journey.
A very fascinating place, this sanctuary. Which is the main reason why tourists come here, in the splendid village of Castelpetroso.
DISTANCE
Isernia - Venafro: 1 hour
Venafro - San Vincenzo al Volturno: 30 minutes
San Vicenzo al Volturno - Castelpetroso: 40 minutes
Castelpetroso - Isernia: 20 minutes
Work in progress: more details and photos to follow!