FROM VENICE'S GALLERIA DELL'ACCADEMIA TO THE DOLOMITES
You might wonder what the Dolomites have to do with the art museum Galleria dell'Accademia in Venice.
If you are in Venice and visit the Gallerie dell'Accademia, you will find a huge painting by the famous Titian. It is called "the Presentation of Virgin at the Temple" and is a painting dating 1534-1538.
It was commissioned by the Scuola della Carità, a charity organisation headquartered in the Church of S. Maria della Carità, where the art museum is located today. The charity commissioned Titian this painting because the topic was very popular in Renaissance Venice: it shows the Christian story of Joachim and Anne, Mary's parents.
Titian painted Joachim and Anne entrusting Mary to the temple after their unexpected parenthood. Mary is climbing the temple stairs slowly in a glowing light; in the background a dramatic mountain scenary: the Dolomites.
THE DOLOMITES AND TITIAN
According to the art experts, the peaks that Titian painted are the Marmarole, one of the lesser known, less frequented and wildest chains of the Italian Dolomites.
Their sharp-edged soaring tops silhoutte against a white and blue sky crossed by huge fluffy clouds. The Dolomites landscape so harsh and bright at the same time contributes to the beauty of the art scene. Titian knew the Marmarole well as he was born and raised in the village of Pieve di Cadore from where he could see them.
As the Virgin Mary is climbing the temple steps towards a higher mission, so the Marmarole peaks show a superior beauty.
Of all the Dolomites the Marmarole are certainly not the most famous mountains, but I wanted to see the Marmarole's superior beauty which stretches over a 13-kilometre long mountain group between the Boite river valley and the Piave river valley.
Titian left Pieve di Cadore and the Dolomites very young and moved to Venice; however, he never forgot the beloved mountains. His love and tribute to the Marmarole have been reciprocated recently as both the Ridgeway "Alta Via nr 5 Tiziano" and a bivouac shelter on the Marmarole called "Bivacco Tiziano" have been named after the painter.
Let's hike to the Chiggiato Refuge on the Marmarole!
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| Meadows on the trail to the Marmarole |
HIKING TO THE CHIGGIATO REFUGE ON THE MARMAROLE
ACCESS POINT AND PARKING
From the town square of Calalzo village we continue to the left driving towards Val d'Oten / Praciadel and park near the little church called Beata Vergine del Caravaggio at 840 metres (to stay on the subject of painters!).
After the bridge crossing over the Diassa stream, there is the junction for the trail nr 261 leading to the Chiggiato Refuge (at 1,911 metres) in the foothills of the Marmarole.
WHERE IS RIFUGIO CHIGGIATO AND ITS HISTORY
The Chiggiato refuge is located on the southern side of the Marmarole.
The refuge was opened on 1st July 1926, and was built by the Venice section of the CAI (Italian Alpine Club) as a support point for the mountaineering ascents of the southern side.
The refuge is named after the father of all Venetian mountaineers, Giovanni Chiggiato, president of the Venice CAI section for many years, and his son, Dino Chiggiato.
THE DAY HIKE TO CHIGGIATO REFUGE
By the place called La Stua, we start our day hike on a road with a moderate slope which is clearly marked along the trail.
After the paved road you enter the woods: the uphill slope is steady and so is my puffing and huffing!
Beyond the dense woods, lit by the summer sun, we can see the most inspiring and beautiful mountain crags. How could Titian not love these wonders!
We cross light green meadows contrasting with the grey rocks and the dark green vegetation. Past the place called La Serra (1,600 metres) where a plaque tells about Pope John Paul II's visit there, in about 3 hours our hiking group reach the Chiggiato refuge. When the forest thins out, what a great panorama!
Titian was right!
When I reached the top, I looked up to the most distant peaks, and I realised what Titian loved about these places: the light.
The light on the Marmarole has a special intensity. Perhaps it is no coincidence that the word "Marmarole" means "shine". An intense gleaming light that stays in your eyes and head for a long time.
Even the vegetation that is touched by this light changes: it is dramatic and hard, or gentle and soft depending on how the sunlight falls on it.
Titian must have loved this light to the point that he managed to capture and use it in his paintings masterfully.
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| Left: Antelao, Right: the Marmarole; centre: Chiggiato refuge |
You get the feeling of having reached a rather special place when you get to the Chiggiato Refuge.
The final leg of the uphill path leads to a huge meadow where at the end of the gentle slope there is a beige house with a grey roof and white and blue striped shutters. One of those mountain huts that spring out of fairy tales!
All around the wall of the Marmarole with all its most beautiful and little explored peaks, the tallest being Cimon del Froppa (2,932 metres).
Just looking at the Marmarole from below, you see toothed ridges, sharp points, precipices and chasms a few kilometers long just about everywhere.
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| Clouds on the Marmarole |
My hiking fellows are the first to get to the refuge downhill. My heart pounds for the fatigue, but also for the spectacle in front of me. I sit on a bench to contemplate the glorious surroundings.
The clouds sometimes cover the mountains spitefully, but then they unravel soon after. They keep on playing hide and seek with me.
On the edge of the meadow, if you look over the cliff ravine, you can see Calalzo village, but it feels like looking down into the belly of the Earth!
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Peering over the ravine towards Calalzo
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| Low clouds wrap the Marmarole |
The clouds like a soft sheet keep on wrapping everything up playfully. It feels like being in a painting!
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| Having a rest at Rifugio Chiggiato |
Despite the desire to see the awesome naked peaks of the Marmarole, it is the trail and the effort that you endure that matter: it is what makes you appreciate the final destination.
It was a great hike for all of the hiking group: the hiking emotions still stay with me like those captured in Titian's paintings.
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| Rifugio Chiggiato and Antelao |
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Say "Marmarole"...ops, behind us: Antelao
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View of Calalzo and lake
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Closer view of Calalzo and lush forests
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| A well-deserved rest after the hike |
Ah, yes, I forgot.
Wondering about Titian's Presentation of the Virgin at the Temple in Venice?
Curious to see the Marmaroles in Titian's painting?
THE CHIGGIATO REFUGE: ACCOMODATION AND FOOD
The Chiggiato refuge has 40 beds (plus some spare ones), bar and a restaurant. Check out the refuge website: Rifugio Chiggiato and reviews.
THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE HIKING
Before hiking check the situation, in particular: - Terrain and trail conditions: by phoning the refuge or the local tourist board.
- Weather conditions.
- Leave early: the walk is rather short; however, we suggest to get the top as early as possible before the crowds that reach the refuge for lunch.
- Dress accordingly: weather can change suddenly, so prepare your hiking gear well.
- Sleeping in the Dolomites refuge: always call well in advance to book, especially in the summer.
- Planning your trip is the key to a safe hiking!
INTERACTIVE MAP OF THE MARMAROLEHere you can see the interactive map of all the Marmarole with the mountains and heights.
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Hope you have enjoyed a summer day hike to Rifugio Chiggiato on the Marmarole chasing Titian's light!
Thanks for reading.
Arrivederci!
MarcoPoloSpirit
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