VALENCIA (SPAIN): 2-DAY CULTURE, RESTAURANTS AND BEACH ITINERARY (ON FOOT AND BY BIKE)

If you are planning Spain for your vacation, make sure you visit Valencia, the third-biggest city in Spain and definitely a must-see destination for its unique arts, excellent "comida" AND "bebidas (food and drinks!), and stretches of sunny sands.

Where's Valencia? Valencia is located on the eastern coast of Spain, between Barcelona and Alicante and enjoys good weather almost throughout the year!

Paolo and I planned a full two-day tour around Valencia as a part of a longer tour of Spain: we made the most of such a short time and experienced the essence of this new cultural venue of Spain with one of the best preserved "casco antiguo" (historic centre).

Rooftops of Valencia: sampling the beauty of this city in a two-day tour

VALENCIA: NO LONGER THE CINDARELLA OF SPAIN

Although Valencia used to be regarded as the Cindarella city in comparison to Madrid and Barcelona, today this is no longer the case. After our 2-day trip in Valencia, the feeling we got is that the third biggest city in Spain has nothing to envy her sister cities: Valencia is a modern gem brimming with a rich historic background.

Exploring Valencia: a modern gem with an old heart

VALENCIA: ONE OF THE BEST SPANISH CITY TO LIVE IN

If we had to move abroad to a town of our choice in Spain, Valencia would be one of our top choices for sure!

In fact, the thriving Valencia sounds like the perfect place to live: it offers a whole variety of cultural activities from sightseeing, to music shows and exhibitions, as well as relaxing beach life, trendy places where to eat and have fun, and amazing cycling tracks!

Valencia is full of trendy bars and an amazing variety of activities

VALENCIA IN 2 DAYS: HIKES AND BIKES

Our Valencia 2-day itinerary will enable you to see the most important highlights, but clearly I must emphasize that a weekend is NOT enought to fully explore this town, and experience its charm, or visit all of the most interesting museums!

We took a meandering ramble through its alleys, quiet corners and amazing shop facades and we could go on for days and days!

I love this hardware shop facade and Valencia is full of cool stores

To make the most of our time and see the major points of interests, we decided to rent a bike on the second day; however, the first day itinerary was designed to see the old town on foot.

VALENCIA: WHAT WE LOVED MOST

On the whole the best part of visiting Valencia was wandering off the main streets whenever we had the chance to enjoy unexpected sights: local life scenes, the amazing street art and old people playing with their nephews or just having a "siesta" in one of the "plazas" on a bench under a tree; or the "horchata de chufa" street peddlers offering their fantastic juice (you must try it!).

Wandering through the streets of Valencia can be so surprising!

Horchata de Chufa peddler: a refreshing Valencia drink from tiger nuts to beat the heat

In the post I pointed out some interesting facts about the monuments and spots we toured as well as useful tips, the average cost, what to eat and drink, useful addresses, and some videos.

Enjoy Valencia!

VALENCIA: OUR 2-DAY HIGHLIGHTS ITINERARY

DAY 1

#1 CLIMB HIGH ON VIEWPOINT OF TORRE DELS SERRANS

We started our Valencia tour from the northern part of the old town, at the so-called Serranos Tower: through this gateway and the area called "la Serrania" the travellers in the past would enter Valencia.

That's why they would be called "Serranos", and the tower named after them. Actually, it is the most important surviving gate of the old walls that surrounded Valencia.

Torre dels Serrans: one of the last surviving towers of Valencia

The Serranos tower was built between 1392 and 1398 to defend Valencia from the enemies, and it was defnitely well constructed: after 700 years it is still standing guard!

The main reason why we wanted to start our tour from the Serranos Tower is that you can climb it and from the top you have a wonderful view of the old town!

We had the chance to watch the tower at sunset, and it is amazing how the tower limestone seems to ignite in the sunlight.

Climb to the top of Torre de Serranos to get a fantastic view, especially at sunset

The other striking feature are the gargoyles around it: they may not be as old as the tower, but they make definitely an impression shaped as they are into monsters and dwarfs!

Well, if you want another reason to visit it, it's the biggest Gothic gateway in the whole Europe.

Striking gargoyle on Torre dels Serrans

In the past the tower used to be a prison for nobles and a deposit for the Prado Museum (Madrid) works of art during the Spanish Civil War.

The tower was a prison and a warehouse for works of art during the war

Tip: if you come on Sundays, there is no charge. For Valencia card holders, 1 euro. Normal rate: 2 euros.

For further information on Torre dels Serrans, click here or here.

For a video tour, click here.

#2 SPLASH WITH NEPTUNE IN THE TURIA FOUNTAIN IN PLAZA DE LA VIRGEN

From Torre dels Serrans walk down Carrer dels Serrans and turn left into Plaza de Manises, you will end up in one of the most beautiful squares of Valencia old town: PLAZA DE LA VIRGEN.

It is called Plaza de la Virgin, but there are 8 naked women dacing leasurelyaround Neptune...

You can't miss the square as right in the middle there's the bubbling TURIA FOUNTAIN with Neptune surrounded by 8 naked women! Neptune represents the Turia river which used to cross Valencia and the 8 irrigation ditches flowing from it.

Actually, Plaza de la Virgen was built on top of what used to be the ancient Roman forum, that's why the square is one of the oldest in town, and it is a great place to hang around with locals, especially in the evenings.

Plaza de la Virgen is a super busy place to relax and admire the hustle and bustle of life

#3 CELEBRATE THE "HUNCHBACK" MADONNA IN THE BASILICA DE LA VIRGEN DE LOS DESAMPARADOS

All around Plaza de la Virgen there are 2 of the most important buildings of Valencia: the BASILICA DE LA VIRGEN DE LOS DESAMPARADOS, and the CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARIA.

The Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados which was built in the mid-1600s has an important place in the heart of every Valencian as it hosts the statue of the Virgen de los Desamparados (the Virgen of the Forsaken) who is the patron saint of the city.

The Church of the Virgin of the Forsaken with the Turia Fountain at night @Turol Jones

If you want to see the real Spanish religious fervor and devotion for this madonna, do visit the church: at any time there is always a group of people praying.

Why is this Virgin of the Forsaken so important for Valencians? The legend has it that after a sermon of a priest who had witnessed the beating of a mentally ill and a stray, the Valencia community set up a hospital for the poor as early as 1400, and from that moment a brotherhood was founded to assist them.

The religious faith towards the madonna became even stronger when as a consequence of the plague  outbreak in 1647, 18,000 Valencians died: the madonna was summoned for help and apparently she actually helped the city as the epidemic ended!

So since 1667 the much loved and worshipped madonna statue has been standing there in a funny position: slightly leaning forward, that's why the locals call her "hunchbacked"!

The hunchbacked Madonna during Fallas in Valencia @Emilio Garcia

The Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, which is a national historical and artistic monument, was built for the madonna to be worshipped by the population. In fact, if you pass by here in the evening, when the church is closed, you can see the statue of the madonna from the railings!

Tip: entry to the church is free of charge.

Don't forget that in March every year there are the most important celebrations for Valencia called "Fallas" during which a huge statue of the Virgin is literally covered with flower offerings!

For a video of the amazing flower offerings to the madonna during the "Fallas", click here.

#4 SEE HUMANITY'S MOST SOUGHT-AFTER TREASURE IN THE CATEDRAL DE SANTA MARIA (LA SEU) 

If you go around the Basilica de la Virgen de los Desamparados, you will end up in the beautiful Plaza de la Reina where the Seu south facade and entrance are located. What's the Seu?

Outer facade of La Seu, the Cathedral of Valencia or the "Chinese Box"

It is the most important church in Valencia dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This emblematic cathedral  is a sort of "Chinese box": the architecture is home to more than a few surprises. In fact, I bet you didn't know (I didn't know either) that the Seu was built on an old mosque!

However, the amazing facts about this cathedral built in 1262 are not over: the old mosque had been built over a Visigothic church, and in turn the latter church had been built on a Roman temple!

Another striking reason why you should visit the Seu is that it is home to ....the Holy Grail!

You may think I have watched Indiana Jones, or read Dan Brown lately, but I have not. They might have helped me to explain a few things if they were around though!

To see the Holy Grail Cup, when you access the church, turn right. You enter a big chapel where the famous Holy Chalice is displayed.

According to the legend, this is the Chalice used by Christ in the Last Supper, and it is said to have been donated by King Alfonso V of Aragon to the Cathedral.

Considering that there is another one in Genoa (Italy) in the Cathedral of Saint Lawrence, which is supposed to be the good one?

Chapel of the Holy Grail in Valencia's Cathedral

If you wander why long port chains are hanging in the same chapel as the Holy Grail, well you should ask France: those are the chains of Marseille' port gates taken as a war trophy by the Spaniards around 1400 when they conquered the French town. Don't ask me why they are hanging there as some things escape me!

The Seu Cathedral has much to do with Italian art and Italian painters. In fact, Pope Alexandre VI who was in fact of Valencian origin from the House of Borja (the name of the family was changed later into Borgia in Italy) wanted his hometown cathedral to look good.

Despite being a controvertial pope of the Reinaissance, and being father to several kids, Pope Borgia was an art lover. That's why he called two Italian Renaissance painters, Francesco Pagano and Paolo da San Leocadio, to paint frescoes on the apse of the Seu.

Painted ceiling by Italian artists in the Cathedral @Heather Cowper

The frescoes are amazing: they depict angels playing instruments; and what is really stiking is the point of celestial blue that comes through!

And finally, you can't leave the Seu without visiting the Micalet bell tower. What's the Micalet? I am sure you will notice a huge tower upon entering the church on your left hand side: it bears a man's name, but actually, it is the name of the main bell which has the name of Saint Michel. Again that's another excellent vantage point. Don't miss it!

The Micalet bell tower as seen from Plaza de la Reina

Tips: 8 euros access fee (entry to the museum and audioguide included). The Micalet tower bell climbing (207 snail stairs, no lifts): 2 euros.

For more info on Valencia's Cathedral, click here.

For more information on the Holy Chalice, watch this video.

#5 CROSS THE PLAZA OF THE FORGOTTEN QUEEN - PLAZA DE LA REINA (THE QUEEN'S SQUARE)

No matter how far you will walk around Valencia, you will keep on coming back to Plaza de la Reina. This irregularly shaped square seems to be the main focus of attractions for tourists and locals alike.

We didn't particularly like it, but as a matter of fact it's surrounded by bars, shops and there is a huge underground parking lot (just in case you are driving in Valencia).

Plaza de la Reina...but who is the Reina???

From Plaza de la Reina two main streets branch out: Calle de la Paz and Calle de Vicent Martir which are thoroughfares you will definitely need to see to experience the hustle and bustle of Valencian life. A curious fact is that at this crossroad in 1930 the first traffic light was set up!

Going back to the Queen's square, I asked a couple of Valencians whose Queen it was, but no one knew. Quite interestng, isn't it? The main square of your town and nobody knows!😉

Well, the forgotten Queen was the beautiful 18 year old Maria de la Mercedes of Orleans who unfortunately died when she became of age:  the square had been built ten years earlier (1868) and it had no name, so the Valencians decided to name it after Her Royal Highness in her honor.

Maria de la Mercedes of Orleans: Plaza de la Reina is named after her

As a matter of fact, the square at that time used to be shaped as a small triangle, half of what it is today, but after the Wars the local authorities decided to knock down a part of the old suburbia and web of alleys to make space for a bigger square.

You should also bear in mind that all the streets in Valencia start off from Plaza de la Reina, i.e. Plaza de la Reina is the 0 point of the urban numbering of the city... all the road lead to Valencia's Plaza de la Reina!

#6 BE SHOCKED BY THE SPECTACULAR PALACIO DEL MARQUES DE DOS AGUAS (THE PALACE OF THE MARQUIS OF TWO WATERS!!!!)

If you want to see how rococo style looked like in Valencia, head to this palace. It is off Calle San Vicent Martir and everybody knows where it is, as it shows off a spectacular facade!

Stunning rococo-style facade of the Palacio de Marques de dos Aguas (in alabaster!)

The palace has been considered one of the most opulent palaces of Valencia in 1500... well, you wouldn't say that by looking at the front facade, would you????😉

The main entrance -which was redesigned in 1700 by masters of the Royal Academy of Arts of Valencia- depicts two giants representing two rivers: Turia and Jucar which clearly make reference to the name "Dos Aguas" (literally, two waters!!!!) in the family name.

The rich merchant family named Rabassa de Perellos acquired the nobility title through money and got richer and richer through influential marriages with noble families and important political positions.

The facade includes also the Virgin Mary, and at her feet a huge cornucopia as a sign of fertily. The crazy thing is that when the family was away, the madonna would be covered!

The other amazing feature is the complex and ornate Rococo-style iron works on the windows.

The palace has three floors and hosts the national ceramic museum!

One of the most luxurious room is the Ball Room with a sofa right in the middle, and a room decorated in neoimperial style in 1800!

The fun thing? The room there's a cupboard: well, in there the musician would be placed so that the guests would dance without seeing the players themselves. Poor thing!

The lavish decorations and ornaments in the Ball Room of the Palacio de Dos Aguas

Tip: on Saturday afternoon, access was free!

For more info about the Palacio de Marques de Dos Aguas, click here or here.

For a video, click here.

#7 EAT WITH LOCALS AT MERCAT CENTRAL (THE CENTRAL MARKET)

From Plaza de la Reina, you walk down Calle San Vincent Martin and turn right into Avenida Maria Cristina.

At the end of the road you can stop for lunch in one of the many bars and stalls of Valencia's Central Market that offer every kind of local produce and products. It's a real foodie haven!

The Central Market in Valencia is a traditional market where art and food mix!

You can walk around 8,000 square metres packed with any food you might think of. To get your bearings, just note down that it is divided in 2 parts: the fishmongers and the garden fruit and vegetables.

There is a main central square covered by an amazing dome, 30 metres in height, and it's all covered in iron, ceramics, glass and stained windows that let a special light come in!

Valencia Central Market looks like an artwork rather than a place to purchase foods: it was completed by 2 Modernist architechts in 1928 and that's why it is the iconic symbol of Valencian Art Noveau style!

Art Nouvea market dome ceiling: beautiful from the top to bottom

What can you shop for in Valencia Mercat Central?

The list of delicacies and typical products I have seen in Mercado Central is endless: from the juicy Valencia oranges, clementines and tangerines; Muscatel grapes from Alicante; towers of figs and pomegranates.

Let alone vegetables such as beans and onions, dried fruits and black trumpet mushrooms!

And fish: shellfish, clams, cockles, squids, scallops, oysters, sardines, shrimps, "percebes" (crabs) from Galicia...

As happy as a clam

You can try out oils in the delicatessen stalls, where you will get dizzy to see the huge variety of hams, sausages and cheese! I will not exhaust my list, but you are spoilt for choice also for nougats, saffron, olives, jams and beers...

Bet you can't eat just one: love Valencia Mercado Central delicatessen!

An amazing display of  Spanish Jamon (ham)

When you walk out, look up on the very top of the building: you'll notice a weather vane on the top steeple.

It's called the "market's parrot" referring to the fact that in this marketplace (like in any other) people gossip and chat all the time.

The parrot has flown... ah, no, it's still there!

Tips: entry is free from Monday to Saturday from 8 am to 2.30 pm.

Bear in mind that if you are interested in fish, get there early as they sell it to restaurants.

On Mondays no fresh fish (or just frozen).

For further info on Mercat Central, click here.

For a video on the Central Market, click here.

#8 MEET THE SILK MERCHANTS AT LONJA DE LA SEDA 

On the same Plaza del Mercado (Market Square) where the Central Market is, you can visit the amazing LONJA DE LA SEDA, also called LONJA DE LOS MERCADERES (the Silk Exchange).

Lonja de la Seda: you can sit on the Patio de los Naranjos, its fantastic fruit garden

If you had to choose a monument to show how rich Valencia was in the XV century, you would definitely have to choose the Silk market!

It is considered the most iconic monument of the Valencian Gothic civil architecture in the Late Middle Ages as the social prestige and wealth of the Valencian commercial middle class increased steeply.

You can guess why it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site: the large and decorated facade, the huge medallions, the stunning gargoyles, the colour of the windows, the elegant doors, the battlements, every single detail shows off the bourgeois power at that time.

Carved madonna on the Silk Exchange facade

The Lonja de la Seda was esencially build to host all the negotiations and commercial transactions of silk and other products which were traded by the merchants in the city.

One of the most amazing trading halls in whole Europe can be seen here: the Contract Hall has amazing proportions and size. The pillars are more than 15 mt high!

The Lonja de la Seda main contracting hall looks like a cathedral!

There is another room that is worth visiting in this building and it is calle CONSOLAT DEL MAR: it was build in the middle of XVI century and lodged the Tribunal for the Law of the Sea which would judge on maritime matters and subjects. It is the oldest maritime court in Spain!

The Consulado del Mar is a medieval hall with a magnificent wooden coffered ceiling

Before leaving the room, don't forget to look up: the priceless jewel of the place is the carved ceiling woodwork because of the wealth of materials used and the variety of motifs and ornaments!

On the ground floor there is the Hall that once house the Trade Tribunals. The light that filters through is amazing!

Silk Exchange halls have a special light coming through (here lower floor of Consulado del Mar)

In the Contracting hall the light plays with the figures

Tips: 2 euro entry fee. Free on Sundays.

Audioguide: 2 euros.

For more info on the Silk Exchange, click here.

For a video on Lonja de Valencia, click here.

#9 DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY AMONGST GREAT ART NOUVEAU MASTERPIECES 

One of the Valencia nightlife hubs (at least where people gather till late) and a Modernist masterpiece is Plaza del Ayuntamiento (the Municipality Square).

From the Market Square you walk down Avenida Maria Cristina till you reach this huge City Hall square surrounded by imposing buildings, all with different styles!

Plaza de Ayuntamiento in Valencia packed with people

On Plaza de Ayuntamiento the huge City Hall is located and at night Valencians gather here to enjoy film or music shows which are staged right in the middle of the plaza.

On the square one of the most striking palace facade is that of the 1922 Art Noveau EDIFICIO DE CORREOS (Valencia's Central Post Office Palace).

Normally people don't tell you to stop at post offices; however in this case you should! Watch it at night: the way it is lit will leave you speechless.

Edificio Correos is a Art Nouveau gem

Just 10 minutes away from Plaza del Ayuntamiento and Edificio de Correos, you can't miss another gem. Again: no one would normally tell you to visit a train station, but in this case you can't miss ESTACIO DEL NORD.

The current train station which is considered national monument was started in 1906 and is another Valencia landmark in modernist style: it's really an allegory of Valencia gardens because all the mosaic decorations that cover the inside show Valencia oranges and women in traditional clothes!

Estacio del Nord in Valencia

#10 GO CLUBBING IN BARRIO DEL CARMEN (THE CARMEN'S DISTRICT)

Unlike other cities around the world, when the sun sets in Valencia (and in Spain), bars and shops... open!

In all the cities crowds of tourists and locals start to thin out while in Valencia they grow bigger and bigger, especially in BARRIO DEL CARMEN, the nightlife district of the old town.

Although the streets of this old neighbourhood are busy with people, the area and the historic buildings stands out, lit by the warm street glow.

The most popular street in El Carmen is Calle Caballeros lined up with shops and restaurants, and at the very end towards Torres Quart also with disco bars.

This district is possibly the most authentic part of the town and although originally it used to be located outside the old Muslim walls, when in 1300 the new walls were built, it was included. Here the Carmelitas' monastery was set up, so that's why it is called EL CARMEN!

The fun thing was that in the Middle Ages it was a red light district, and later the place where the Muslims wanting to live in the city would have to live.

Over time it became basically a bad neighbourhood, and today it is still a "den of iniquity", if by that we mean a place where people have fun and gather to have a chat with friends over a "cerveza" (beer) or "copa de vino" (glass of wine).

Tip: you can still see the old Carmen monastery which has a fantastic cloister.

For more info about Museo del Carmen, click here.

For a video on Valencia's Barrio del Carmen nightlife and movida (Spanish), click here.

DAY 2

VALENCIA BY BIKE

Valencia by bike is super fun!

Day 2 in Valencia is going to be a long bike along the cycling tracks of which the bike-friendly Valencia is full. 120 kilometres!

We were quite lazy and we rode just 25 kilometres by bike. However, we had the time to visit some of the best sights we actually wanted to see, with a break in the port area to eat for lunch, enjoy the World Cup football match Spain v. Russia and relax on the Cabanyal beach.

We grabbed our brand new bikes right in the heart of the old city and... off we went to spend a fun day exploring Valencia! (for cheap bike rental, go to the end of the post)

#1 SEE NAPOLEON'S CANNONBALLS ON TORRE DE QUART

If you haven't stopped at Serranos' Tower, this is your second chance to gasp at the amazing top view of Valencia's skyline from Torre de Quart.

For sure Torres de Quart is a tower of strength...still here!

It used to be part of the former Christian walls and it gets the name because the road to the village of Cuart de Poblet (to the west of Valencia) passes through this gate!

Actually, it is a very old gate because it was built around 1441 on top of another gate (dating 1300). It was super strategic as through this gate all the quicklime (used to make cement and build the town) would be transported into Valencia.

Later it was used as a gunpowder deposit, and prison for prostitutes. Napoleon's cannonballs are still visible on the tower!

#2 GO STREET ART HUNTING 

One of the things you should be doing when in Valencia is to go urban art hunting! The old town is packed with stunning murals and, anyway, you can't help it as you will soon bump into one or another!

The Barrio El Carmen which is one of the nightlife districts of Valencia, located in the northeastern side is full of artists' graffiti and to me, real artworks!

Both international and local artists alike have used the side facades of Valencia's old buildings or blocks of flats to express their ideas of art.

Street art in Valencia

Each work is striking because of the colours hues, the combination of shapes or because of the subjects which make you at least stop and think.  Some murals are huge, so I wonder whether it is something the artists painted in league with the local authorities or whether it was something happening underground!

Whether you like this sort of art form or not, slip into any alley of the old barrio because Valencia street art will give you an insight on the current cultural, political, social and -of course- art instances.

Or maybe not, as Escif (one of the current Valencia street artists say). As Escif puts it: the street artist wants to use the street space in a different way, they are just reclaiming public areas.

Barrio El Carmen: go hunting for the most amazing murales

Whatever the reason may be for their work, I find Valencia street art genial and positively provocative, especially when they depict subjects that cause a stir. They have always an impact on those who watch them!

Tip: if you are interested in street art in Valencia, check out these artists: Escif; Blu; Julieta XLF.

For an interesting video on Valencia's street art, click here.

#3 LOOK FOR A WHOLE ZOO AT MERCADO DE COLON

One of the best things to do in Valencia is visit Mercado de Colon located to the south of the old town in one of the richest barrios of Valencia (Primer Ensanche).

Mercado de Colon: the triumph of Art Nouveau

Actually, it is no longer a market: it is a gathering place at any time of day and night: bars, and cafes provide a friendly vibe and relaxed atmosphere. Enjoy an aperitif while admiring this Art Noveau jewel!

In fact, this amazing place was built in 1914, and it was built by Francisco Mora Berenguer who much influenced by the Modernist School: everybody visits Gaudi' s Barcelona, but Valencia had its own master of Art Nouveau!

Inside the gem of the Mercado @Jocelyn Kinghorn

Originally Mercado Colon was opened in 1916 and completely decorated with amazing ceramics with wildlife to fill in an entire zoo (look up on the external facades for turkeys, rabbits and bats!), stained glass windows and a domed ceiling.

Mercado Colon: details of flowers on the external decorations @Jocelyn Kinghorn

Mora Berenguer's amazing modernist artwork on the external facade of the Mercado Colon @Jocelyn Kinghorn

It seems impossible that the place was in shambles for ages until 1997 when the municipality decided to restore it to former glory about 10 years ago.

Mercado Colon in Valencia in Primer Ensanche barrio

Tip: visit the market at night for breathtaking photos and views! Occasionally on Sunday there is a market with stalls selling handmade crafts!

For further info on Colon Market, click here.

For a video, click here.

#4 ADMIRE LA PUERTA DE LA MAR FROM WHERE... YOU CAN'T SEE THE SEA!

From Mercado Colon if you head eastwards on the way to the Turia Gardens, you will reach a huge roundabout with the famous Puerta de la Mar (the Sea Gate!)... but where's the sea?

The sea is actually 4 kilmetres from the square!

The Puerta de la Mar is actually built on a former puerta, actually on former gates. The old one was the real sea gate because it fenced off the city from the enemies' attacks and it was part of the ancient walls leading to the sea port (hence the name).

The huge Puerta del Mar...where is the sea?

The other door which pre-existed the current one was the Puerta Real (the Royal Gate) demolished at the end of XIX century.

And this one? It was erected in 1946 to remember those who died during the Spanish Wars. Though it is squeezed in a busy spot, the impressive arches and cross makes it really stand out.

#5 ENJOY THE TURIA GARDENS, THE BIGGEST CITY PARK IN SPAIN

From Plaza de la Puerta de Mar you can easily reach the Turia Gardens: the green heart of Valencia! I have seen many great bike-friendly cities in Europe, but Valencia's Turia Gardens beat them all.

It is the biggest city park in Spain: a huge green area, a true heaven for bikers, runners, families with kids, walkers, nature lovers, and a great space to relax.

Fans of bikes and hikes' paradise: Turia gardens

It's packed with fountains, pools, football pitches, concert areas and playgrounds for kids.

The story of this place is amazing: it is the former bed of the Turia river which crossed the town but caused disastrous floodings and damages.

Turia was diverted and in 1986 Turia Gardens opened to the public after an amazing landscape designing work. If you are a plant and flower lover, you will love this green lung: it is packed with palm trees, orange trees, pine trees, and rose bushes!

It's crossed by 18 bridges, but the two we loved most is: PUENTE DE LAS FLORES with more than 27,000 flowers!

Puente de las Flores crossing the Turia gardens

The other bridge is PUENTE DE LA PEINETA, as the Valencians call it. It is actually shaped like a comb (hence the name), but it is actually the Expo bridge (PUENTE DE L'EXPOSICIO) built by Calatrava between 1991 and 1995: it is made of one arched beam only measuring 26 metres in length!

Puente de la Peineta by Calatrava

#6 DON'T MISS THE GLASS BOX OF PALAU DE LA MUSICA (THE MUSIC HALL)

Crossing the Turia Gardens is a great way to reach Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias (the City of Arts and Sciences) and the Palau de la Musica (Music Hall).

You can't miss it: once you reach a huge pool in the Turia Gardens with bubbling fountains, just turn on your left and there it is: the Palau de la Musica.

500,000 people attend shows and music plays each year in this amazing music venue which is a huge transparent box.

 Palau de la Musica with the pool, fountains and palm trees

From the Palau you can see the Turia pool and the fountains which means that the Turia garden is integral part of the building: the lobby and corridors of the Palau themselves are a huge greenhouse with plants and trees!


For more infor on Palau de la Musica, click here.

#7 JOIN THE ALIENS IN CIUDAD DE LAS ARTES Y CIECIAS (THE CITY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES)

You can't say Valencia without the City of Arts and Sciencies!

It is definitely the iconic buildings of Valencia and the genial work of architect Calatrava who created 7 building with a futuristic design and lots of pools.

Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias, the organic architecture masterpiece by Calatrava

From the outside the feel is that you walk between landed alien spaceships! The full area has restaurants, water playgrounds for kids and bike stands.

Kids playing in water balls in the City of Arts and Sciences

Tip: book online in advance as queues are very long and dedicate a whole day to enjoy the whole area!

Below the details of each building in the City of Arts and Sciencies:

HEMISFERIC: it is actually a cinema! I call it the "big eye" but as a matter of fact it is a huge screen to watch spectacular films about science topics (dinosaurs and the like). Films are provided in various languages.

The "eye" is the "Hemisferic", a huge IMAX science cinema

For more info on Hemisferic, click here.


MUSEO DE LAS CIENCIAS PRINCIPE FELIPE: you can spend hours and hours if you like to see how mankind developed in science and tec throughout history! However, if you are NOT a fan of science, I suppose you'd better employ your time elsewhere.

Look at this amazing Museo de las Ciencias Principe Felipe

For more info on the Science Museum, click here.


UMBRACLE: it's a 360 metre arched path full of local plants and landscaped garden with sculptures! It is meant to be the access to the complex.

A landscaped walk: l'Umbracle!

For more info on the Umbracle, click here.


OCEANOGRAFIC: it's the most visited attraction of this futuristic park as it is the biggest aquarium in Europe with different marine environments and more than 45,000 type of sea animals.

There are impressive underwater tunnels and even an underwater restaurant!

Oceanografic: the biggest aquarium in Europe

Honestly I am not a fan of sea life in captivity; however, I do see the point of raising awareness on sea life protection which part of the mission of this aquarium.

Aquarium Marine Park in Valencia: you can travel around the world's seas!

For more info on Oceanografic, click here.


PALACIO DE LAS ARTES REINA SOFIA: I named it "the huge helmet" because if you see it from the side at the right angle, the Palacio de las Artes Reina Sofia looks like what motorcyclists wear.

Motorcyclist or not: if you like going to the opera house or watch ballets or concerts in general: that's the right place!


It is one of the largest opera houses in the world with 14 floors: built in 2005 it is 75 metres high  with a roof structure that can be expanded!

The aliens have landed in Valencia: the Reina Sofia opera house is out of this world!

For more info on the Reina Sofia opera house, click here.

PUENTE DE L'ASSUNT DE L'OR: it's a single pillar bridge with 29 cables that makes it look like a sort of gigantic cetra!

In the foreground Puente de l'Assunt de l'Or

AGORA: the last building which is still being built is a sort of huge shell stuck in the sand!

It's meant to be a huge covered square to host events. I loved the blue colour of the outer surface covered with tiles which shines in the sunlight!

L'Agora looks like a giant shell in the sand @Marcus

For more info on Agora, click here.


For a drone video on the City of Arts and Sciences in Valencia, click here.

#8 GET A DRINK OR JUST SOME SEA BREEZE AT AMERICA'S CUP PORT

In 2007 the port of Valencia hosted the 32nd America's Cup, and therefore in the previous years the port area was completely reshaped and redesigned.

Marian Real Juan Carlos I features many iconic buildings such as Vels e Vents (background)

La Marina Real Juan Carlos I was the outcome of this reshaping with spaces for yachting, a super modern marina  with top facilities as well as restaurants and bars. So if you are a sea lover, or want just to take a stroll and get some sea breeze, the La Marina Real is a great place to spend some time.

If you get there from the commercial port side, you will first bump into the old warehouses where the crews and the America's Cup teams had their base. Everything is still there!

From the quay you can enjoy the view of the clock tower building in the port (Valencia's Big Ben), the stunning sculptures of Manolo Valdes (like the Pamela hat) and the iconic building called Vels e Vents (literally, Sails and Winds).

Big Ben in Valencia????

The Vels e Vents building hosted the organisational hub of the America's Cup. It's an amazing architecture by David Chipperfield and Fermin Vazquez who reminds me of a Neapolitan pastry called "sfogliatella".

In fact the building is 4 layers set at different angles and heights: don't miss the view from the top terraces on the internal canal and harbour.

Awesome Marina Veles e Vents building: the symbol of Valencia's Port America's Cup

Take your cameras out for some wonderful shots of Veles i Vents at night@Marcela Escadell

You can enjoy a meal on the ground floor as well as on the top floor there are restaurants and bars.

The rest of the building nowadays looks a bit empty as it is quite a problem to adapt buildings to new use.

The Pamela hat is a stunning Valdes' sculpture in Valencia located in the port area

However, from the Vels e Vents building a long promenade leads you to the very end of the harbour where the 800 boatsheds are lined with sailing and sports clubs, as well as water sports stalls and shops. As a matter of fact in Valencia you can sail all year long thanks to the amazing weather!

In Valencia port area there is space for any kind of event and activity

For a video on Valencia's Marina Real, click here.

#9 SUNBATHE AND RELAX ON PLAYA DEL CABANYAL OR PLAYA DE LA MALVARROSA

From the end of the harbour you can see the long stretches of Playa del Cabanyal and Playa de la Malvarrosa, the urban beaches of Valencia.

The places are packed with a lovely bike and walk promenade and packed with beach bars, restaurants and sport activities.

Playa de la Malvarrosa in Valencia @Boris Dzhingarov

The interesting part of this area is that here lived Valencia's thriving maritime community, especially fishermen, sailors and all the activities linked to the sea. The area is still famous for its thached-roof fishermen's houses that lined the promenade, some of which you can still admire.

There are many Art-Nouveau house facades that make the area even more beautiful and colourful!

Art Nouveau houses in El Cabanyal, the fishermen's quarter @Angus Iglesias

However, as there are local authorities plan to knock down the area and the traditional houses, you'd better get a move on and visit the fishermen's quarter in Valencia, El Cabanyal.

Tip: if you get there on Thursday, keep your eyes open: there's Cabanyal market!

#10 TAKE A LAID-BACK STROLL AROUND THE UNIVERSIDAT POLITECNICA AND AVENIDA BLASCO IBANEZ

The Polytechnic University of Valencia area which focuses on science and technology is a huge neighbourhood at the back of El Cabanyal, easy to reach thanks to the comfortable cycling tracks.

Universidad Politecnica de Valencia is one of the urban art spots @Antonio Marin Segovia

The green area around the Polytecnic University and along the Avenida Blasco Ibanez are two cool places both for lunch and to enjoy a night out: full of cheap small tapas bar or small restaurants, it's one of the best places to see young people who hang around for hours in front of a cold cervezas.

A throwback laid-back mood to my university times!

After a day biking, a cerveza in the University area

#11 SEE MICHELANGELO'S COMPETITOR AT THE SISTINE CHAPEL OF VALENCIA

Before we left Valencia we wanted to see for ourselves what is nicknamed "the Sistine Chapel of Valencia". It's the IGLESIA DE SAN NICOLAS DE BARI Y SAN PEDRO MARTIR (Church of Saint Nicholas).

Church of Saint Nicolas:Valencia's Sistine Chapel @Juan Antonio Segal

It's a little gem tucked away in the old town. Once you get in you just go: "Wow". It's covered with amazing frescoes dating from the Baroque period (end of 1600), while the church itself dates back to 13th century, all in Gothic style.

If Michelangelo who painted the Sistine Chapel in Rome were alive, today he would probably ask who Juan perez Castiel and Antonio Palomino were (probably he would not go for a cerveza with them, as he is said to have been ill-tempered, and arrogant!).

The two Spanish guys were the architect and painter who took care of the interior stuccoes, relifs and decorations of the church. Well, possibly no one will remember their name, but you will definitely remember the Church of Saint Nicolas when you leave Valencia.

Tip: Monday is a special day for the church. It's a day dedicated only to prayers and vows (no tourists' visit, no access fee - generally you do pay). However, if you sneek peek in quietly, apart from the church it is interesting to see how Spain seems to be immune to religious crises. The church was packed with church-goers.


For more info on Saint Nicholas Church, click here.

For a video on San Nicolas, click here.

IN BRIEF

HOW TO GET TO VALENCIA

We got on a Ryanair flight from Bergamo (Italy) which takes you to Valencia airport in about 2 hours. Valencia is well connected to Europe and the rest of Spain. For more flight destination info, click here.

HOW TO GET AROUND VALENCIA

BY METRO

We picked the easy option: public transport. Get on the Metro, either line 3 or line 5 which takes you right into the heart of town.

From the arrivals area at Valencia airport, you need to go downstairs where there is also a Metro Information Desk.

The cost of a one-way ticket is just 1.50 euro! We got off the metro at Alameda metro stop, right in the middle of the Turia gardens and walked to our hotel in 10 minutes.

Click here for a map of Valencia metro.

VALENCIA TOURIST CARD

Alternatively buy the travel pass, Valencia Card and Valencia transports are free.

The pass can be purchased for 1, 2 or 3 days and it is valid from the very moment you stamp it! It is convenient if you are a museum fan and decide not to walk. A 2-day card: 20 euro.

Actually some of the attractions are free and others involve just a discount. If you want to save money on sightseeing, you need to do a bit of penny pinching and see what you are interested in visiting BEFORE buying the card!

You can check here the discounts you will get with the Valencia Tourist Card.

BY BUS

Other options include catching a bus. For full info on the bus network in Valencia, click here or EMT Valencia.

BY BIKE

We decided to make the most of our legs: we hired fantastic bikes at Bike Rental and Luggage Storage in Calle Quart 9, Valencia.

It's fantastic to ride the bike in Valencia!

Great service: super new bikes, and open until 9 pm! Highly recommended professional service! They also have bike baskets and bike equipment which you can rent (i.e. helmets).

Renting a bike: around 10 euro per day.

ON FOOT

The best way to enjoy Valencia old town is on foot! The must-see attractions are in an area of 30-minute walk from one end to the other.

However, if you want to go to the Malvarrosa beach (the town beach) or the Calatrava Museum area called the City of Arts and Sciences, be aware that it is a 6-km walk!

WHERE TO GRAB VALENCIA MAPS

At airport arrival floor there is a tourist info desk which will provide you with all info and maps. Click here for a downloadable map of Valencia old town.

WHERE TO STAY

Our choice was an old mansion palace converted into a hotel which is located right in the Carmen barrio (the old town), near the Cathedral: the place was spotlessly clean, aircon, a lovely terrace and super friendly staff! We stayed here.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

When you enter Valencia, you enter a food and drink heaven! After our 2-day weekend, I can say that Valencia is definitely a gourmet place! There is no shortage of good restaurants in Valencia with some really high end dining.

Of course the signature dish in Valencia is Paella: the traditional Paella Valenciana dish is cooked with meat (chicken, rabbit and snails!).

The special rice comes from areas around Valencia and it is cooked on wood fire. So make sure you eat in the right places!

Paella valenciana is just delicious!

However, eating the traditional paella isn't cheap, which means 20 to 30 euros depending on what you want to eat.

We actually missed the Paella's week which is on from 6th July 2018 until 17th July 2018. For more info, click here.

If you are on a budget, you should look for tapas bars and go for "montaditos" (little sandwitches), "pinchos" (finger food on a stick) or "tapas" (small apetizers or snacks) which can be either served cold or hot. Some comes as cheap as 1 euro each!

You can also have "raciones" which means that you will go for a full portion, or "media racion", just half a portion.

IN THE CIUDAD VELLA (OLD TOWN)

NAVARRO

Our first stop was possibly the best "comida" in Valencia. Right in the heart of Valencia old town, 5 minutes from the Valencia market hall, we stopped at NAVARRO.

We actually were lucky to find a spare place in this super famous spot. Why? Because in Spain people don't have lunch before 3 pm. We got there at 1.30 pm! Just our luck! If you visit Valencia, have a paella for lunch rather than dinner: it is really filling and you will enjoy it much more!

We went for the Paella Valenciana: the top quality rice of the dish made it a perfect start. It was toasted to a crunch, and no stirring! Together with the meat, there are green beans. Just delicious!

Won't forget the lovely sangria we had at Navarro: wine, sugar, freshly squeezed juice and fresh fruit with a ice cubes and a few mint leaves. A perfect balance of flavours and a real thirst quencher!

Sangria: the perfect thirst-quencher!

To start with you can't miss Jamon Bellota which is a deli in Spain: it is a type of curated ham made from black Iberina pigs which eat just acorn (bellota) and roam free in oak forests!

The result is a super rich and intense taste! Look at my face: can't resist everything, except Spanish Jamon!

Slices of ruby red wonder: Jamon Bellota is the best Spanish ham

To cap it all, some Moscatel wine was the cherry on the cake was on the house: fruity wine, excellent for desserts... you actually feel the sun in it. Don't miss Moscatel unforgettable sweet texture!

IN PORT D'AMERICA (PORT AREA)

LA LONJA DE PESCADO

If you fancy a Spanish seafood stew, this is the place to eat "caldereta de marisco" (marisco are lobsters, prawns and clams)! However, in this casual restaurant you can have a go at any fish dish you have in mind: from paellas to "arroces melosos" (food rice in broth), to grilled tune, stemmed mussels or fried fish.


If you are looking for a star-studded restaurant, or an amazing location (the restaurant is set near the abandoned Valencia docks of the former America's Cup!), this is not the place. However, if you care about the quality of the fish, it was excellent!

IN THE UNIVERSITY AREA

100 MONTADITOS

If you are justlooking for a quick and cheap bite, 100 Montaditos informal snack bar is the perfect place for you. The day we went to the bar in the University area on the Avenida de Blasco Ibanez (but they are all over Valencia as it's a chain) it was Sunday and the price per snack was just one euro!

Little moments, great stories: a cool cerveza at Blasco Ibanez 100 Montaditos

Full of university students and family with kids as well as group of old ladies going out for an aperitif and to have snacks and small bites, the place was super lively and cheerful.

DRINKING

Beer is definitely less expensive than water in Valencia: 1 euro for a cerveza in most places we went to. If you go to a trendy bar, then the prices for special drinks are more expensive (around 7-8 euros).

CAFE' DE LAS HORAS

Located close to the cathedral in the heart of town, this quirky bar is the perfect stop for a baroque night out: the place is decorated with luxurious velvet decors and stone tables with soft armchairs. It looks like a noblewoman's boudoir or burlesque place!

A pitcher of Agua de Valencia, the typical Valencian cocktail

Here we truly enjoyed Agua de Valencia (literally, water from Valencia). The ingredients for this famous Valencia cocktail? Cava bubbly wine, freshly squeezed orange juice (typical from the Valencia area), vodka and gin (or either, depending on the place).

It is served super cool! Invented in 1959 by Bar Madrid in Valencia (ah, ah, ah), it still goes strong and super popular!

You may watch this video if you want to make Agua de Valencia yourself!

HIGH CUBE

In the Valencia Port Area, you can't miss this cool place: just next to the famous "Veles e Vents" building and overlooking the sea, High Cube is set right on the dock where the America's Cup used to take place.

The atmosphere was great as we actually enjoyed it with a cheering crowd of Spanish football fans as the 2018 World Cup football match featuring Spain was on.

High Cube, one of the best bars in the Marina Real de Valencia

It was quite interesting to see how the Spanish wine culture is steering towards the cerveza culture (beer, beer, and beer again).

We tried lots of Spanish drinks such as "clara": beer with lemon soda, or the typical "horchata de chufa", a drink with a sort of juice from local nuts (chufas). Don't miss "granizado de limon": basically iced lemon crush!

High Cube is a lovely place to stop by for a refreshing drink while watching the boats sailing by.

8 VALENCIA TOP TRAVEL TIPS FROM OUR TWO-DAY TOUR (IN RANDOM ORDER!)

#1 EAT LATE: go and eat late! For lunch the Spanish eat around 3 pm or later; for dinner don't turn up before 9 pm or later. The restaurants will be almost empty, or all by yourself!

#2 MONDAYS: Valencia is a "dead" town on Monday: everything is closed, and when I say everything, I mean restaurants, museums, bars, attractions, etc.

The exception is the Central Market (Mercat Central) which is a good spot to shop for food. So make sure you plan well! The awesome Church of Saint Nicholas is open on Monday, but not for tourists.

#3 LUNCH BREAK: museums in Valencia open late and most of them (check the opening-closing time) have a lunch break!

#4 FREE: some museums and art places are free on Saturdays afternoon and Sundays! Check on the website or with Valencia Tourist Board here.

#5 NIGHTLIFE: apart from the best known nightlife spots such as Barrio El Carmen (in the old town) or the Ruzafa area (southern neighbourhood), the area of Marina Real Port is packed with bars and clubs.

Another excellent spot is the University area located off Turia Gardens, along Calle Blasco Ibanez .

Plaza del Ayuntamiento (literally, the Municipality Square) is another place to hang around with locals.

#6 NO TOURISTS: during mass services, generally speaking visitors are banned from visiting churches (i.e. Saint Nicholas Church or La Seu).

#7 TEMPERATURE: when Paolo and I visited Valencia in July the temperature almost reached 40 degrees centigrades: it can be quite hot, but, hey!, Malvarrosa city beach is next door!

However, take notes: even in winter the temperature is never too cold! Any season goes in Valencia!

On the positive side, we have never found queues or had to wait long to access a monument in Valencia in July. Special powers of the Valencia summer heat wave!

#8 CYCLERS' ALERT: warning for bike riders: you will be fined by the Spanish police if you ride on pavements or use your mobiles while riding!

Don't lock your bikes on trees or lamp posts as it's forbidden!   Lock your bikes safely only on the bike parkings and posts spread across town.

JUST FOR FUN

Before setting off for Spain you might like to read some books or bring them on vacation. Here is a list of books set in Spain.

If you prefer films, here you can find a list of films set in the Comunidad Valenciana and Valencia.

For a short Valencia's drone view film, click here.

OVER TO YOU NOW!

If you have been to Valencia, do you have any feedback on this itinerary? Any places that we might have overlooked and they were really worth visiting? If you have never been, any questions on the itinerary? If I can help you, just drop me a line! Your feedback would be interesting borth for Paolo and I and for other travellers!

Thanks for reading!

MarcoPoloSpirit is a native of Venice, Italy, but has also called Rome, Trieste, Madrid, London and Brussels home.  After graduating and working abroad, finally she landed in Rome for more than 15 years and currently in homeland Venice.  You can find MarcoPoloSpirit at @marcopolospirit (Instagram and Twitter).