PARADISE CAN'T WAIT: BEST THINGS TO SEE AND DO IN SEYCHELLES IN 2 WEEKS
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| La Digue Anse Source D'Argent beach |
Most travellers associate Seychelles with honeymoons and romance, and as a matter of fact it is one of the favourite destinations for couples and luxury lovers.
Personally, Seychelles had been high on my travel list since... I was a broke college student (well before I got married!) when I was constantly daydreaming about moving to tropical islands.
My dream was to set up a beach hut by the sea shore. A dreams of many travellers, I guess.
However, having said that, there are at least 3 other reasons for you to travel to the Seychelles, apart from celebrating your wedded bliss.
First, if you are one of those travellers who love pristine and secluded soft powdery beaches and can't wait to walk away from stress at work, then Seychelles is just for you!
Seychelles is the perfect spot to wind down in general given its relaxed vibe.
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| My Seychelles favourite hidden corner |
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| Spectacular walls of greenery in the Seychelles |
Last but not least, if what fascinates you is the Creole culture and its rich gastronomy background, then Seychelles is what you hoped for! Seychelles is a gourmand heaven for people who love variety and quality eating...
That's precisely why Paolo and I opted for Seychelles (and no...we didn't visit Seychelles because we opened a beach hut there!): we wanted to explore independently and safely a slice of paradise with excellent opportunities to do sports, hike and get close to wild nature!
Generally speaking, I have a thing for far-away islands. I suppose it is my MarcoPoloSpirit: I'm trying to straddle between sea and land all the time!
I am madly in love with the island status which is always quite special in comparison to mainland life!
That's why I enjoyed very much life on another tropical island, Anguilla, in the Caribbean: like Seychelles, Anguilla too was a perfect spot to inhale nature and exhale routine life!
READ ALSO: Anguilla (Caribbean): my favourite tropical island that taught me 5 life lesson.
I don't know whethere it's just my impression, however, the Seychelles are one of those destinations that do not hit the headlines very often like the Caribbean islands (unless the Royal family Prince William and Kate Middleton decide to spend their honeymoon there, as it happened back in 2011).
Luckily Seychelles are out of the hurricanes routes, and unlike the nearby Reunion or Mauritius, there are no volcanoes that might erupt at any moment and, therefore, hit the news.
So hardly do Seychelles make front-page news nowadays ... and to me it is a good thing from a nature conservation point of view.
Their stunning-yet-fragile nature calls for protection and efforts, as well responsible travelling, avoiding at all costs that Seychelles suffer the same ill fate as Thailand, the Balearic Islands or my homeland Venice.
Generally speaking, with tourisms coming to the Seychelles since the 70s, all sorts of nature conservation problems came along such as heavy and uncontrolled building works, local fishermen that left their industry to work in tourism or threatened species losing their habitat!
However, tourism in the Seychelles can also fund important conservation projects and sustaineable tourism can go along with responsible environmental management and behaviour.
For example,the Seychelles conservation projects and Leonardo Di Caprio Foundation supported the creation of a protected marine environment twice as big as the UK.
I am madly in love with the island status which is always quite special in comparison to mainland life!
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| Seychelles: Eden on earth |
That's why I enjoyed very much life on another tropical island, Anguilla, in the Caribbean: like Seychelles, Anguilla too was a perfect spot to inhale nature and exhale routine life!
READ ALSO: Anguilla (Caribbean): my favourite tropical island that taught me 5 life lesson.
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| Life on tropical islands |
SEYCHELLES: A SET OF LITTLE HEARD OF ISLANDS
Actually, before setting foot on the Seychelles, apart from reading lots of travel blogs and books, I hadn't heard much of this archipelago in the daily news.I don't know whethere it's just my impression, however, the Seychelles are one of those destinations that do not hit the headlines very often like the Caribbean islands (unless the Royal family Prince William and Kate Middleton decide to spend their honeymoon there, as it happened back in 2011).
Luckily Seychelles are out of the hurricanes routes, and unlike the nearby Reunion or Mauritius, there are no volcanoes that might erupt at any moment and, therefore, hit the news.
SEYCHELLES: A PARADISE... NOT LOST (LET'S KEEP IT SO)
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| Seychelles call for environmental protection and conservation |
So hardly do Seychelles make front-page news nowadays ... and to me it is a good thing from a nature conservation point of view.
Their stunning-yet-fragile nature calls for protection and efforts, as well responsible travelling, avoiding at all costs that Seychelles suffer the same ill fate as Thailand, the Balearic Islands or my homeland Venice.
Generally speaking, with tourisms coming to the Seychelles since the 70s, all sorts of nature conservation problems came along such as heavy and uncontrolled building works, local fishermen that left their industry to work in tourism or threatened species losing their habitat!
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| Fishermen in Seychelles still use traditional wicker baskets |
However, tourism in the Seychelles can also fund important conservation projects and sustaineable tourism can go along with responsible environmental management and behaviour.
For example,the Seychelles conservation projects and Leonardo Di Caprio Foundation supported the creation of a protected marine environment twice as big as the UK.
SEYCHELLES: INTERESTING NATURE AND PEOPLE
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| Seychelles' wonders: granite boulders and the figgler crab |
Not knowing much about what the tropical nation would set aside for us, Paolo and I travelled to the Seychelles without any preconceived idea. However, the place turned out to be just stunning: Seychelles exceeded our wildest expectations on all fronts.
Seychelles are not just heaven on earth (with a rich sea environment, i.e. 32 different species of crabs; lush jungle vegetation amongst granitic boulders and endemic animals and plants).
They are also a cultural cocktail of people with creole background from France, the UK, Africa, India, and China.
Though we noticed that the style of life is westernised in many ways, the creole culture underpins music, arts and, of course, food!
To us it rather meant learning to take the time to appreciate the lovely nature, watching people selling fruit on the street, listening to birds chirping, or having a chat with buddies we just made friends...
I suppose local people have this attitude because the Seychelles are crawling with the most awesome nature and environment on earth, just there to enjoy!
The other thing that I particularly enjoyed (at least watching) was the fact that locals got together a lot in closely-knit communities: be it at the port, in bars and on the streets.
I ask myself whether it is because most of the islands are uninhabitated (90% of the population lives in Mahe, the capital island, 10% in Praslin and La Digue, but the rest of the islands are deserted!).
Locals were always clustering up, talking, fishing, taking their time to meet... definitely Seychelles are relationship-oriented islands!
Seychelles are not just heaven on earth (with a rich sea environment, i.e. 32 different species of crabs; lush jungle vegetation amongst granitic boulders and endemic animals and plants).
They are also a cultural cocktail of people with creole background from France, the UK, Africa, India, and China.
SEYCHELLES: SOME CULTURAL NOTES
LANGUAGE, RELIGION AND ARTS MIX
Seychelles are a true cultural mix: this is because they were discovered by the Portoguese first; dominated by the French then, and finally by the English. No wonder why they speak the Seychellois creole called Seselwa, a great French- English language mix, precisely!Though we noticed that the style of life is westernised in many ways, the creole culture underpins music, arts and, of course, food!
EASY-GOING LIFE
A thing that we really liked about the Seychelles was the fluid time culture of the Seychelles: a relaxed and easy-going atmosphere which did not mean lack of attention or carelessness.To us it rather meant learning to take the time to appreciate the lovely nature, watching people selling fruit on the street, listening to birds chirping, or having a chat with buddies we just made friends...
I suppose local people have this attitude because the Seychelles are crawling with the most awesome nature and environment on earth, just there to enjoy!
A SENSE OF COMMUNITY
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| The spirit of togetherness in the Seychelles! |
I ask myself whether it is because most of the islands are uninhabitated (90% of the population lives in Mahe, the capital island, 10% in Praslin and La Digue, but the rest of the islands are deserted!).
Locals were always clustering up, talking, fishing, taking their time to meet... definitely Seychelles are relationship-oriented islands!
PARADISE CAN'T WAIT: WHAT TO SEE AND DO IN SEYCHELLES IN 2 WEEKS
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| Map of Seychelles - photo credit@TUBS |
We picked 3 paradise islands of the Seychelles archipelago (Praslin, La Digue and Mahe in this order) which we toured in 2 weeks in July by going from one island to another using different means of transport (flight and ferry), and within the islands themselves, we walked, hiked, biked, and took a taxi (horse-cart or motor taxi).
However, bear in mind that there are more than 110 deserted or private islands forming part of the Seychelles, all set in the Indian Ocean between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn!
There was no better place than Seychelles to take part in a yoga group session in serene environment surrounded by the silence of nature and the sound of lapping beach waves.
After the yoga session, we felt well connected to the amazing Seychelles environment... so a yoga class was the best thing to do to wrap up our Seychelles magic holiday!
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| Our Seychelles tour: Praslin, La Digue and Mahe |
However, bear in mind that there are more than 110 deserted or private islands forming part of the Seychelles, all set in the Indian Ocean between the Equator and the Tropic of Capricorn!
ISLAND HOPPING: PRASLIN, LA DIGUE AND MAHE
We travelled from Mahe to Praslin (stayed 4 nights in Praslin), from Praslin to La Digue (4 nighs in La Digue) to end our journey back in Mahe (3 nights in Mahe).
Here you get the low-down on our Seychelles' 2 week-tour.
We landed in Mahe from Milan Malpensa (Itay), and next we boarded a domestic flight with Air Seychelles for Praslin. Looking out of my plane window, I was speechless with amazement: Praslin stood out like a diamond on a blue velvet jewel case... white sandy beaches all around and lush forest in the middle...
Praslin is the second biggest island of the Seychelles archipelago: just 25 square metres of perfect mix between soft sands and dense jungle.
The top beaches are Anse Lazio, Anse Georgette and Anse Volbert (Cote d'Or). They may look all the same to the eyes of an inattentive traveller: sand, palm trees and granitic stones are everywhere; however, the beaches turn our to be quite different! Each beach has its own special features which I am going to tell you about.
Anse Georgette waters (one of the most beautiful and world wide famous beach) run deep quite quickly, and the place is an excellent spot for snorkelling if the sea is not choppy (when we were there it was!).
However, being a day with big waves, there were very few people around and we had the beach all to ourselves! We just loved it!
Tip: it's a beach located within the Constance Lemuria Resort, so ask your guesthouse or your hotel to phone and ask for authorisation to access it as only few external visitors a day are allowed in!
You need to take a 30-minute walk through the golf course to get to the beach!
Anse Lazio, the most famous beach on Praslin, and one which ranks top on this year 2018 Tripadvisor Travelers' Choice Awards Best Beaches, has an amazing postcard scenery and a lifeguard is often there to protect you.
Mind: waters run quite deep here too, and the sea can get rough! What I loved about this beach were the gorgeous granite boulders all around it.
On the right side of the beach, you can snorkel well and see all sorts of fish! Maybe you don't get the quantity that you get in the Red Sea, but definitely it is worth it!
Tip: the beach is very popular: go there before 9.30 am or at sunset when it gets special!
What I loved was daily local life: locals selling fruit and vegetables, fishing boats coming to shore...
Tip: this beach can be busy as day-long boat tours to other islands depart from here; public transport is also available on the main street right at the back of the beach. On a negative note, in July there were lots of seaweeds...
It is actually a leftover (so to say!) from the prehistoric Godwana continent, and when you walk through this palm forest, you won't be surprised if Tarzan and Jane pop up and fly past you!
Tip: the entrance money (350 rupees)goes into the conservation of this amazing forest. Take a guided tour with a local guide: for just roughly 10-15 euros per head (for groups of people), or just wait for other visitors to make up for a group.
From the guide we got a couple of hours of informative explanation on this magic world! Worth the money!
While strolling on the foothpaths in the Vallee de Mai forest (which was thought to be the Garden of Eden by the first Seychelles' discoverers!!!!), don't forget to look up amongst the thick palm tops and look for the famous coco de mer!
They are also called sea coco or double coco: a fruit which is endemic to Praslin and the nearby Curieuse Island.
This fruit has a male version whose flower is similar to a male sex organ and a female version whose fruit is similar to a female pelvis... in all its details! Surprising nature!
Because of this special shape, the coco de mer was thought to be Eve's forbidden fruit in Eden... well, if that was Eve's forbidden fruit, she must have taken ages to hand it to Adam.
The average weight of a coco de mer is up to 30 kilos!
We enjoyed a guided tour with a naturalist guide in the Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve on Praslin which is 6 times as bis as the Vallee de Mai: 122 hectares rich in endemic species (both plants and animals), but less frequented than Vallee de Mai.
You should plan your visit in the morning and the tours usually last a couple of hours!
Here is where you can smell the rich variety of spices (for example, vanilla), and see the palm spiders.
In the Vallee de Mai forest you can see rare endemic birds called Black Parrot which is also the national bird of the Seychelles!
If you want to visit the Curieuse Island right in the middle of the National Marine Park, you board a day tour to explore this small granitic island just 2 km off the northeastern coast of Praslin (opposite the famous beach Anse Lazio!).
The centrepieces of the tour to Curieuse Island are 300 Aldabra giant land tortoises that roam free on the island and the endemic palm trees coco de mer!
And if you try to guess the oldest giant tortoise's age you'll never succeed: he is estimated to be 184 years old!
Don't miss also a tortoise nursery and a former 19th century leprosy!
Tip: there are interesting trails and hikes on this small island of Curieuse and amazing opportunities to see the mangroves swamps with amazing roots and the red and blue crabs living there!
If you wish to know more about the Seychelles conservation programme on Curieuse island by the Marine Conservation Society Seychelles, click here, or the major projects on the protection of Aldabra by the Seychelles Island Foundation, click here.
One of the best way to get to know the rich Seychelles sea bed is to snorkel off the island of Saint Pierre. It is a tiny desert island with beautiful palm trees and rocks that you cannot visit to preserve the fantastic spot.
However, what you can do is enjoy the schools of tropical fish! They will jump all around you!
On a negative note the day we took the snorkelling tour the sea was quite choppy, so check the sea conditions carefully with your boat tour operator!
I never think about being thankful for the stunning flowers that we see on our vacations; however, when visiting Seychelles, we were fascinated by the rich flora such as the bright pink flowers or the ever-present fragrant Frangipani flowers.
I feel that being thankful is something that it should be done at the Seychelles. Why? Over 50% of the Seychelles archipelago have been declared natural reserves and should be protected from exploitation, climate change and alien plants introduction!
If you want to learn more about the Seychelles gorgeous endemic flora, click here.
Next stop was stunning La Digue which we reached by ferry from Praslin. It is tiny as it is the fourth island of the archipelago and just 10 square km.
It lies 40 km from Mahe and 6 km from Praslin. The 2,000 inhabitants and visitors alike use bicycles to get around or carts and horses which was a really unusual sight.
We rode a bike all the time to tour the island; however, bear in mind that in the evening there are no road lamps or electricity, well... you either bumped into bikes (roads are busy with bikers!) or got a good headlamp on! So make sure your headlamp that is fully working!
Despite the fumbling in the darkness and the hope-not-to-be-hit-by-another-bike feeling, La Digue is my favourite island with a special atmosphere: it preserves a unique flavour of the old times... and naturally a great variety of postcard-perfect beaches!
Among the most famous granite beaches, La Digue can boasts Anse Source d'Argent, Anse Coco, Grand Anse, Petite Anse, Coco Island, and many hidden bays where you can enjoy the pure rhythm of nature, and the creole soul of this island.
I loved this beach on the east side of La Digue because we could splash in lovely little pools between the hefty rocks. The beach is quite special as at the back there are wrecked buildings which used to be a factory processing copra (dried coconut). Guess why the beach is called so!
Tip: to reach the place we hiked easily (proper shoes please!) through Grand Anse and Petite Anse in 30 minutes. Take plenty of water, hat, sunlotion but mind that there is little access to shade. It's jungle time!
It lies south west and to get access it you need to pay a ticket (115 rupees) as you cross a heritage park called the Union Estate.
Snorkelling here was rewarding as we saw murenes!
Tip: wear your beach rubber shoes as it's full of sharp corals!
We saw many locals surfing because the water is quite rough (at least when we were there!), the tide is very strong because of the lack of coral reef to protect the shore from the open sea, and the water is deep.
My advice is: don't venture far or be extra super careful!
Tip: if you can't stand being in the hot sun, take note that there are very few shades on the beach! Arrive early or bring your own shade!
It's next to Grand Anse, and you reach it from Grand Anse through a path. Depending on how fit you are, the path can be easy or difficult (roughly it took us 20 minutes to walk and climb down, there are some tricky point but consider that we aren't super trekkers!).
Grand Anse and Petite Anse share the same beauty with great colours, sand, trees, rocks and very few people around, possibly due to the fact that the sea current is strong.
Tip: there are some locals there selling fruit on a beach hut, at least when we were there!
La Digue is home to a special bird called paradise flycatcher (guess why?): there are just 200 of them in the world, and therefore it is considered an endangered species! You can admire their bright long tails in La Digue's Veuve Nature Reserve.
To learn more about the Veuve Special Reserve and the work of Seychelles National Park Authority, click here.
Another significant component of the Seychelles ecosystem is the fruit bat which you can spot during the day. However, we learnt that it is haunted for its meat. Apparently in the Seychelles one of the main signature dishes is fruit bat curry!
One thing that has never occurred to me before going to the Seychelles was how to open a coconut without any tool!
However after a couple of days of lying on the splendid Seychelles beaches and watching the locals open them in no time, Paolo's reaction was: I want to learn it too!
It made me laugh because my husband looked a bit like Tom Hanks' in "Cast Away": trying to survive on coconuts. Don't believe it? Look at the scene here!
At first Paolo was really helpless; however, after smashing the husk with some stones; he managed to get the actual nut and, finally, crack it by simply hiting it against a sharp rock edge along the centre furry lines (the one connecting the top and bottom end!).
Paolo's feeling in the end? Delight. He said that it was like breaking into Fort Knocks!
The truth is that Seychelles is getting high on tavellers' bucket list, so most of the local fishermen (at least this is what we were told) leave their old jobs and turn to the more profitable tourism industry.
Chances are that you'll see few fishermen around which is the paradox of being on an island right in the middle of the Indian Ocean!
However, it's a good idea whenever you can to support the local fishermen's community which in La Digue seemed to be on a small scale but still thriving.
Because we stayed in a B&B with cooking facilities we managed to buy some fresh dish straight from the local fishermen and cook it. The fishermen would sell huge fish baskets of Jackfish, red snapper or Jobfish for just 5 euros!
Here you get the low-down on our Seychelles' 2 week-tour.
FIRST STOP: PRASLIN
We landed in Mahe from Milan Malpensa (Itay), and next we boarded a domestic flight with Air Seychelles for Praslin. Looking out of my plane window, I was speechless with amazement: Praslin stood out like a diamond on a blue velvet jewel case... white sandy beaches all around and lush forest in the middle...
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| Aerial view of amazing Seychelles |
PRASLIN
BACKGROUND
Praslin is the second biggest island of the Seychelles archipelago: just 25 square metres of perfect mix between soft sands and dense jungle.
BEST BEACHES
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| Happy on the best beaches of Praslin |
ANSE GEORGETTE
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| Anse Georgette: pure natural beauty |
However, being a day with big waves, there were very few people around and we had the beach all to ourselves! We just loved it!
Tip: it's a beach located within the Constance Lemuria Resort, so ask your guesthouse or your hotel to phone and ask for authorisation to access it as only few external visitors a day are allowed in!
You need to take a 30-minute walk through the golf course to get to the beach!
ANSE LAZIO
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| Praslin Anse Lazio |
Mind: waters run quite deep here too, and the sea can get rough! What I loved about this beach were the gorgeous granite boulders all around it.
On the right side of the beach, you can snorkel well and see all sorts of fish! Maybe you don't get the quantity that you get in the Red Sea, but definitely it is worth it!
Tip: the beach is very popular: go there before 9.30 am or at sunset when it gets special!
ANSE VOLBERT (COTE D'OR)
Anse Volbert also called Cote d'Or is the longest 3-km long beach on Praslin! And it is a favourite beach with families as waters are shallow (ideal for kids).What I loved was daily local life: locals selling fruit and vegetables, fishing boats coming to shore...
Tip: this beach can be busy as day-long boat tours to other islands depart from here; public transport is also available on the main street right at the back of the beach. On a negative note, in July there were lots of seaweeds...
WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN PRASLIN
HELP TO PRESERVE UNESCO VALLEE DE MAI
A top highlight of Praslin and a can't-miss stop is the UNESCO World Heritage Vallee de Mai, or what is left from the primeval palm forest which is still there since the earth was created!It is actually a leftover (so to say!) from the prehistoric Godwana continent, and when you walk through this palm forest, you won't be surprised if Tarzan and Jane pop up and fly past you!
Tip: the entrance money (350 rupees)goes into the conservation of this amazing forest. Take a guided tour with a local guide: for just roughly 10-15 euros per head (for groups of people), or just wait for other visitors to make up for a group.
From the guide we got a couple of hours of informative explanation on this magic world! Worth the money!
TOUCH THE SEXIEST "LOVE COCO" IN THE GARDEN OF EDEN
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| Endangered rare palm tree seed Coco de Mer looks like the human buttocks |
They are also called sea coco or double coco: a fruit which is endemic to Praslin and the nearby Curieuse Island.
This fruit has a male version whose flower is similar to a male sex organ and a female version whose fruit is similar to a female pelvis... in all its details! Surprising nature!
Because of this special shape, the coco de mer was thought to be Eve's forbidden fruit in Eden... well, if that was Eve's forbidden fruit, she must have taken ages to hand it to Adam.
The average weight of a coco de mer is up to 30 kilos!
HIKE UPHILL IN FOND FERDINAND NATURE RESERVE
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| Top view at the end of Fond Ferdinand nature reserve hike on Praslin |
We enjoyed a guided tour with a naturalist guide in the Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve on Praslin which is 6 times as bis as the Vallee de Mai: 122 hectares rich in endemic species (both plants and animals), but less frequented than Vallee de Mai.
You should plan your visit in the morning and the tours usually last a couple of hours!
Here is where you can smell the rich variety of spices (for example, vanilla), and see the palm spiders.
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| Palm spider in Fond Ferdinand Nature Reserve |
LISTEN TO THE NATIONAL BLACK PARROT CHIRPING
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| Seychelles is a paradise for birdwatchers |
GUESS THE GIANT TORTOISES' AGE ON CURIEUSE ISLAND
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| Seychelles giant tortoises have a long lifespan |
If you want to visit the Curieuse Island right in the middle of the National Marine Park, you board a day tour to explore this small granitic island just 2 km off the northeastern coast of Praslin (opposite the famous beach Anse Lazio!).
The centrepieces of the tour to Curieuse Island are 300 Aldabra giant land tortoises that roam free on the island and the endemic palm trees coco de mer!
And if you try to guess the oldest giant tortoise's age you'll never succeed: he is estimated to be 184 years old!
Don't miss also a tortoise nursery and a former 19th century leprosy!
Tip: there are interesting trails and hikes on this small island of Curieuse and amazing opportunities to see the mangroves swamps with amazing roots and the red and blue crabs living there!
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| Loved the mangrove walk on Curieuse Island |
If you wish to know more about the Seychelles conservation programme on Curieuse island by the Marine Conservation Society Seychelles, click here, or the major projects on the protection of Aldabra by the Seychelles Island Foundation, click here.
EXPLORE THE RICH FISH SHOALS OFF SAINT PIERRE ISLAND
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| Great snorkelling at Ilot Saint-Pierre (Praslin) |
However, what you can do is enjoy the schools of tropical fish! They will jump all around you!
On a negative note the day we took the snorkelling tour the sea was quite choppy, so check the sea conditions carefully with your boat tour operator!
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| Fish spotting and snorkelling: best activities in La Digue |
BE THANKFUL FOR THE STUNNING FLORA
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| Paradise Seychelles mystical nature and flowers |
I feel that being thankful is something that it should be done at the Seychelles. Why? Over 50% of the Seychelles archipelago have been declared natural reserves and should be protected from exploitation, climate change and alien plants introduction!
If you want to learn more about the Seychelles gorgeous endemic flora, click here.
SECOND STOP: LA DIGUE
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| Seychelles La Digue rocky coastline |
LA DIGUE
BACKGROUND
Next stop was stunning La Digue which we reached by ferry from Praslin. It is tiny as it is the fourth island of the archipelago and just 10 square km.
It lies 40 km from Mahe and 6 km from Praslin. The 2,000 inhabitants and visitors alike use bicycles to get around or carts and horses which was a really unusual sight.
We rode a bike all the time to tour the island; however, bear in mind that in the evening there are no road lamps or electricity, well... you either bumped into bikes (roads are busy with bikers!) or got a good headlamp on! So make sure your headlamp that is fully working!
 |
| La Digue by bike is an easy and fun way to explore the island |
Despite the fumbling in the darkness and the hope-not-to-be-hit-by-another-bike feeling, La Digue is my favourite island with a special atmosphere: it preserves a unique flavour of the old times... and naturally a great variety of postcard-perfect beaches!
Among the most famous granite beaches, La Digue can boasts Anse Source d'Argent, Anse Coco, Grand Anse, Petite Anse, Coco Island, and many hidden bays where you can enjoy the pure rhythm of nature, and the creole soul of this island.
BEACH PROFILE
ANSE COCO
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| Paradise Anse Coco after short hike in the jungle |
Tip: to reach the place we hiked easily (proper shoes please!) through Grand Anse and Petite Anse in 30 minutes. Take plenty of water, hat, sunlotion but mind that there is little access to shade. It's jungle time!
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| Jungle hiking path to Anse Coco |
ANSE SOURCE D'ARGENT
It's 1-km of silver powdery sand, so no wonder why it is one of the top beaches in the world depicted in many ads.It lies south west and to get access it you need to pay a ticket (115 rupees) as you cross a heritage park called the Union Estate.
Snorkelling here was rewarding as we saw murenes!
Tip: wear your beach rubber shoes as it's full of sharp corals!
GRAND ANSE
It's a long beach in the southern part of the island which you can reach by bike.We saw many locals surfing because the water is quite rough (at least when we were there!), the tide is very strong because of the lack of coral reef to protect the shore from the open sea, and the water is deep.
My advice is: don't venture far or be extra super careful!
Tip: if you can't stand being in the hot sun, take note that there are very few shades on the beach! Arrive early or bring your own shade!
PETITE ANSE
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| La Digue Petite Anse |
Grand Anse and Petite Anse share the same beauty with great colours, sand, trees, rocks and very few people around, possibly due to the fact that the sea current is strong.
Tip: there are some locals there selling fruit on a beach hut, at least when we were there!
WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN LA DIGUE
SPOT THE PARADISE FLIGHTCATCHER AND THE FRUIT BAT
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| Seychelles fruit bat |
La Digue is home to a special bird called paradise flycatcher (guess why?): there are just 200 of them in the world, and therefore it is considered an endangered species! You can admire their bright long tails in La Digue's Veuve Nature Reserve.
To learn more about the Veuve Special Reserve and the work of Seychelles National Park Authority, click here.
Another significant component of the Seychelles ecosystem is the fruit bat which you can spot during the day. However, we learnt that it is haunted for its meat. Apparently in the Seychelles one of the main signature dishes is fruit bat curry!
LEARN HOW TO CRACK A COCONUT WITHOUT ANY TOOLS
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| I will show you th best way to crack a coconut in no time |
One thing that has never occurred to me before going to the Seychelles was how to open a coconut without any tool!
However after a couple of days of lying on the splendid Seychelles beaches and watching the locals open them in no time, Paolo's reaction was: I want to learn it too!
It made me laugh because my husband looked a bit like Tom Hanks' in "Cast Away": trying to survive on coconuts. Don't believe it? Look at the scene here!
At first Paolo was really helpless; however, after smashing the husk with some stones; he managed to get the actual nut and, finally, crack it by simply hiting it against a sharp rock edge along the centre furry lines (the one connecting the top and bottom end!).
Paolo's feeling in the end? Delight. He said that it was like breaking into Fort Knocks!
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| He was a great fan of coconut cracking too! |
BUY FRESH FISH FROM THE LOCAL FISHERMEN
The truth is that Seychelles is getting high on tavellers' bucket list, so most of the local fishermen (at least this is what we were told) leave their old jobs and turn to the more profitable tourism industry.
Chances are that you'll see few fishermen around which is the paradox of being on an island right in the middle of the Indian Ocean!
However, it's a good idea whenever you can to support the local fishermen's community which in La Digue seemed to be on a small scale but still thriving.
Because we stayed in a B&B with cooking facilities we managed to buy some fresh dish straight from the local fishermen and cook it. The fishermen would sell huge fish baskets of Jackfish, red snapper or Jobfish for just 5 euros!
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| Red snapper is a common catch at Seychelles |
THIRD STOP: MAHE
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| Seychelles main island Mahe: intimate exotic sands await |
MAHE
BACKGROUND
Our last stop was Mahe, the capital island of Seychelles, which we reached after a ferry crossing plus jumped on a taxi to cross the island (Mahe's airport was on the other side of the island!).
Mahe is the biggest island (150 square km), and that's why it offers an amazing variety of landscapes: from the lively and colourful capital, Victoria, to 900 mt mount Morne towering in the Seychelloise National Park.
The country was first under French dominion and then Britain took possession of it in the early 19th century until the nation reached complete independence in 1976.
With this special background in store when you stroll around Victoria you understand lots of things: for example, you can breath the harmony of a society that has made peaceful coexistence of many religiuos faiths and ethnic origins a strong asset!
Because we did not have much time to tour Mahe we used the remaining days to do sports (winsurfing, paddle boarding and volleyball), as well as pamper ourselves with a Spa Day. And of course sunbathing!
Maybe our constant and intense focus on the volleyball match wasn't at its best, however Paolo and I enjoyed lots of moving around and jumping on Port Launay beach volley area. Lots of calories went too, but ehi...beach volley tournament was followed by proper nutrition. How about Seychelles octopus and fish salad for a start?
Tip: Port Launay Marine National park is a beach lying 17 km from the capital Victoria on the north western side of the island, and it is surrounded by a backdrop of mountains. You can drive to Port Launay from Victoria (1 h) or get a bus (2 h).
Actually we found out that Port Launay is a Marine National Park since 1979, and in some areas water sports are allowed such as windsurfing or stand up paddle. We enjoyed windsurfing against the backdrop of the beautiful lush forest!
For more info on Port Launay Marine National Park, click here.
We cycled from Port Launay to the Sauzier Waterfall (just 2 km). It is not a big waterfall, but it is still considered the biggest on the island and on a hot day it was really refeshing taking a dip there!
VISIT THE HINDU TEMPLE AND MARKET IN VICTORIA CAPITAL
After a bumpy two-hour bus ride from Port Launay to Victoria, the capital, we headed right behind Victoria market to the colourful Hindu Temple with ornate statues all the way up to the top.
I loved the Hindu Temple because it is a token of Seychelles multicultural soul: the nation stemmed out of people coming from Europe, Africa and India, so the cultures have intertwined and lived together peacefully which to me should be an inspiration to the whole world!
Behind the stunning Hindu Temple you can poke around Victoria Market which is tiny but still authentic. I loved the food display with fruits and vegetables towering over fresh fish on display too.
If you really want to buy something local, I would spend mone on the breadfruit chips. Once you start, you can't get enough!
Tip: according to a local legend, if you eat a lot of breadfruit, you'll come back to Seychelles! I had tons of it...let's see if it works sooner or later!
Mahe is the biggest island (150 square km), and that's why it offers an amazing variety of landscapes: from the lively and colourful capital, Victoria, to 900 mt mount Morne towering in the Seychelloise National Park.
The country was first under French dominion and then Britain took possession of it in the early 19th century until the nation reached complete independence in 1976.
With this special background in store when you stroll around Victoria you understand lots of things: for example, you can breath the harmony of a society that has made peaceful coexistence of many religiuos faiths and ethnic origins a strong asset!
Because we did not have much time to tour Mahe we used the remaining days to do sports (winsurfing, paddle boarding and volleyball), as well as pamper ourselves with a Spa Day. And of course sunbathing!
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| The lure of paddle boarding in Seychelles |
WHAT TO DO AND SEE IN MAHE
BREAK A SWEAT AT VOLLEYBALL
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| We didn't make finals in volleball tournament |
Maybe our constant and intense focus on the volleyball match wasn't at its best, however Paolo and I enjoyed lots of moving around and jumping on Port Launay beach volley area. Lots of calories went too, but ehi...beach volley tournament was followed by proper nutrition. How about Seychelles octopus and fish salad for a start?
Tip: Port Launay Marine National park is a beach lying 17 km from the capital Victoria on the north western side of the island, and it is surrounded by a backdrop of mountains. You can drive to Port Launay from Victoria (1 h) or get a bus (2 h).
WINDSURF IN PORT LAUNAY MARINE NATIONAL PARK
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| Windsurfing at Port Launay South Beach |
Actually we found out that Port Launay is a Marine National Park since 1979, and in some areas water sports are allowed such as windsurfing or stand up paddle. We enjoyed windsurfing against the backdrop of the beautiful lush forest!
For more info on Port Launay Marine National Park, click here.
HIKE OR BIKE TO SAUZIER WATERFALL
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| Port Launay waterfall is so refreshing |
We cycled from Port Launay to the Sauzier Waterfall (just 2 km). It is not a big waterfall, but it is still considered the biggest on the island and on a hot day it was really refeshing taking a dip there!
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| Enjoyed the fun of cycling the roads of Mahe |
VISIT THE HINDU TEMPLE AND MARKET IN VICTORIA CAPITAL
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| Hindu Temple in Victoria (Mahe) |
After a bumpy two-hour bus ride from Port Launay to Victoria, the capital, we headed right behind Victoria market to the colourful Hindu Temple with ornate statues all the way up to the top.
I loved the Hindu Temple because it is a token of Seychelles multicultural soul: the nation stemmed out of people coming from Europe, Africa and India, so the cultures have intertwined and lived together peacefully which to me should be an inspiration to the whole world!
Behind the stunning Hindu Temple you can poke around Victoria Market which is tiny but still authentic. I loved the food display with fruits and vegetables towering over fresh fish on display too.
If you really want to buy something local, I would spend mone on the breadfruit chips. Once you start, you can't get enough!
Tip: according to a local legend, if you eat a lot of breadfruit, you'll come back to Seychelles! I had tons of it...let's see if it works sooner or later!
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| Travellers' exotic shopping at Victoria market (Mahe) |
PAMPER YOURSELF WITH A MASSAGE....
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| Revive your senses with your favourite spa treatment |
A massage at Seychelles was the cherry on the cake of our last days of holiday! After a day in the sun and doing some water sports, isn't there anything better than a head to toe massage?
....AND A YOGA CLASS
There was no better place than Seychelles to take part in a yoga group session in serene environment surrounded by the silence of nature and the sound of lapping beach waves.
After the yoga session, we felt well connected to the amazing Seychelles environment... so a yoga class was the best thing to do to wrap up our Seychelles magic holiday!
IN BRIEF
WHEN TO GO
We visited the heavenly beaches in July for two weeks and I would say that the season is all right, except that you can get some drizzles now and then which last shortly. In fact, although the dry season is from May until September, occasional rain is quite a fact. Temperature was around 25-27 degrees centigrade, so just perfect for us!
GETTING THERE
We got a Blue Panorama flight from Milan Malpensa to Mahe (the capital island of Seychelles) with a stopover at Luxor (which was not expected).
Bear in mind that the company is no longer flying to Seychelles; however, our experience wasn't a positive one as the airplane was old and neglected with shaky seats and broken folding tables. In general there are no direct flights from Italy to Mahe (at least a stopover, if not two) and there isn't much difference in price.
You can check flights from Italy to Mahe via Doha/Abu Dhabi/Dubai include Etihad, Air Seychelles, Qatar Airways or Emirates. Lowest fares are in the humid rainy season that is after October.
The Seychelles are a visa-free country. For further info, click here.
Bear in mind that the company is no longer flying to Seychelles; however, our experience wasn't a positive one as the airplane was old and neglected with shaky seats and broken folding tables. In general there are no direct flights from Italy to Mahe (at least a stopover, if not two) and there isn't much difference in price.
You can check flights from Italy to Mahe via Doha/Abu Dhabi/Dubai include Etihad, Air Seychelles, Qatar Airways or Emirates. Lowest fares are in the humid rainy season that is after October.
VISA
The Seychelles are a visa-free country. For further info, click here.
GETTING AROUND
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| Off we go! |
DOMESTIC FLIGHTS
We booked also a flight from Mahe to Praslin with Air Seychelles which was excellent, short and saved time over using the ferries as we were already in Mahe airport, and we just changed plane. Fare: about 70 euros (one way).BUSES
We used public trasport in Mahe (buses) which was very convenient. The cost of the bus fare was 5 Seychellois rupee (one SR is equal to 0.06 euros; so we paid 0.30 euros for a bus ticket!) which we paid to the bus driver. Pay in coins.
For the Seychelles Public Transportation Corporation bus schedule, click here.
For the Seychelles Public Transportation Corporation bus schedule, click here.
FERRY
We used also Cat Cocos fast ferries from Praslin to La Digue and back. Fare: 14 euros (one way).
BIKES
In La Digue we rented bikes (around 100 SR a day).
ACCOMODATION AND OTHER INFO
SLEEPING
No matter what people say about affordable holidays in the Seychelles, the truth is that the destination is an upmarket one.
You can still cut down costs by booking b&b or guesthouses, but of course keeping the budget as low as 50 euros a night for a double room (accomodation only) it is a hard task.
You can still cut down costs by booking b&b or guesthouses, but of course keeping the budget as low as 50 euros a night for a double room (accomodation only) it is a hard task.
EATING
Eating out in proper restaurants can be expensive in the Seychelles (at least to our Italian standards!), though the local food is mind-blowing, and the cooking methods are varied.
Another thing that we noticed is that having lunch out was less expensive than having dinner: for example, at lunchtime eating an informal restaurant (let's say, a fish dish plus a drink) was around 20 euros (per person).
At dinner prices increased to 30 euros (no wine included!). In top restaurants price was up to 70 euros for a full meal.
However, in the Seychelles there are cheaper options if you take away food or eat at street stalls. Average price for a dish: max 10 euros (portions were usually huge).
As Paolo and I are seafood lovers the local specialties we loved were fish curry with coconut milk and grilled fish with ginger or chilli sauce!
I'm afraid we did not have a go at eating bat curry which is regarded as the local signature dish! Apparently people said it tasted like chicken!
We opted for self-catering facilities, so we had no problem with cooking at home which was very convenient if you bought fish directly from the local fishermen. In La Digue we paid 10 US dollars for 10 big fishes!
Another thing that we noticed is that having lunch out was less expensive than having dinner: for example, at lunchtime eating an informal restaurant (let's say, a fish dish plus a drink) was around 20 euros (per person).
At dinner prices increased to 30 euros (no wine included!). In top restaurants price was up to 70 euros for a full meal.
However, in the Seychelles there are cheaper options if you take away food or eat at street stalls. Average price for a dish: max 10 euros (portions were usually huge).
As Paolo and I are seafood lovers the local specialties we loved were fish curry with coconut milk and grilled fish with ginger or chilli sauce!
I'm afraid we did not have a go at eating bat curry which is regarded as the local signature dish! Apparently people said it tasted like chicken!
We opted for self-catering facilities, so we had no problem with cooking at home which was very convenient if you bought fish directly from the local fishermen. In La Digue we paid 10 US dollars for 10 big fishes!
SNORKELLING AND DAY TRIP TO CURIEUSE
We took a day tour from La Digue to Curieuse island and Saint Pierre Island. Curieuse day tour with BBQ price: around 70 euros per person (for children half price!).
When you get off the boat in Curieuse you need to pay 200 SR per person to local warden. We used our own snorkelling gear.
Well, saying "I do" on the Seychelles may not be the main reason why people come to these beautiful islands, however - let's face it - the Seychelles are the classic backdrop to any industry from fashion to weddings.
As a matter of fact, when we were there, we witnessed a few wedding ceremonies, especially in La Digue.
If getting married in the Seychelles is high on your list, you can find the legal requirements here or here.
When you get off the boat in Curieuse you need to pay 200 SR per person to local warden. We used our own snorkelling gear.
GETTING MARRIED
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| Exchanging wedding vows on a white sandy beach |
Well, saying "I do" on the Seychelles may not be the main reason why people come to these beautiful islands, however - let's face it - the Seychelles are the classic backdrop to any industry from fashion to weddings.
As a matter of fact, when we were there, we witnessed a few wedding ceremonies, especially in La Digue.
If getting married in the Seychelles is high on your list, you can find the legal requirements here or here.
FURTHER INFORMATION
For further information about accomodation, things to do, food and events in the Seychelles, click here or here.
For a full Seychelles country profile and facts, click here.
If you want to read some books set in the beautiful Seychelles, you'll find some Seychelles-inspired books here or here.
MarcoPoloSpirit is a native of Venice, Italy, but has also called Rome, Trieste, Madrid, London and Brussels home. After graduating and working abroad, finally she landed in Rome for more than 15 years and currently in homeland Venice. You can find MarcoPoloSpirit at @marcopolospirit (Instagram and Twitter).
For a full Seychelles country profile and facts, click here.
JUST FOR FUN
If you want to read some books set in the beautiful Seychelles, you'll find some Seychelles-inspired books here or here.
