A 24-HOUR ITINERARY IN MILAN: SIGHTSEEING, EATING, SLEEPING AND SHOPPING
Why going to Milan?
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As a matter of fact, people associate Milan with money and high-market shopping, but actually very few think that they can swoon over a full city package, including top-class museums, art galleries, breathtaking church interiors, scenic hidden corners, and get lost in the web of bars, pastry shops and restaurants for all tastes and budgets.
Whatever you choose, there are endless pleasures in Milan!
My sister Francesca and I spent a weekend long of fun with a good mix of culture, art, aperitiv and shopping. 24 hours is hardly enough to stop in Milan for a visit; however, as a friend of mine puts it, leaving something to see for next time gives you a good excuse to return time and time again.
Our 24-hour itinerary
SATURDAY
MORNING
Milan Central Station or Chicago Union Station's famous "The Untouchables"?
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| Milan Central Station or Chicago Union Station? |
If you have watched the film "The Untouchableas", you can't help but wonder whether the film was shot in Milan Central Station. The huge flight of steps, the handrails and even the lights are the same!
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| Chicago Union station, photo by SchuminWeb |
You would hardly ever think that a railway station is place to visit. However, Milan station IS a place to call at, if not to have fun and see the huge glass and iron canopy covering the platforms, and the bizarre architectural mix!
The station was developed and christened during Fascism (1931), so no wonder that the front facade displays a full array of tacky male muscles, bas-reliefs and human heads.
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| Old and new marketing: the old mosaics mix with today's ad billboards |
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| Milan train station has pompous decorations dating 1931 |
You may like it or not, however wasn't it the architecure star, Lloyd Web, and not just any, who said that Milan train station is the most beautiful in the world? (judge for yourself, I actually loved it!).
Tip: for a top view and a good time lapse of people rushing around Milan Central Station, go upstairs at Obika bar. You will be facing the platforms, and keeping an eye on your train arrival/departure timetable without standing (no seats after the departure gates!).
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| The huge canopy iron work in Milan Central Station |
Lots of (window) upmarket shopping (unless you are rolling in money)
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| Via Monte Napoleone: shop till you drop (if can afford it), photo@Dimitry B. |
Straight from the train station, my sister Francy and I walked down Via Manzoni and reached Via Monte Napoleone. The street is world-wide famous as it is part of the Golden Quad (4 streets of luxury brands): Milan's high-end shopping district.
You could not avoid being dazzled by the shop windows which had just been decked up with the new spring collections. Actually, we got there during Milan Fashion Week (middle of February yearly) and the whole city centre was bursting with fashion events.
Prices skyrocket, but if you can afford luxury brands, just remember that they take a long lunch break between 1pm and 3 pm.
If you are not a high-flyer, I recommend you head down there anyway: one of the fun things to do is watching high society wearing the most bizarre piece of clothing... or watch people's faces as they peer into the fashion shop windows!
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| This spring biggest shoe trend for fashion victims |
The chic espresso
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| A luxury coffee at Pasticceria Cova |
Everybody knows that drinking coffee is second nature to Italians and that you can't just order an "espresso" as there are many types of coffee in Italy.
Here are just a few coffee types: macchiato (with a drop of milk), cappuccino (half coffee, half milk froth), macchiatone (less coffee and more milk), ristretto (just a shot of coffee), and many more.
Here are just a few coffee types: macchiato (with a drop of milk), cappuccino (half coffee, half milk froth), macchiatone (less coffee and more milk), ristretto (just a shot of coffee), and many more.
Can't afford shopping in Via Montenapoleone? Well, you are still in for a treat: for just 1,20 euro (standing at the bar) you can savour the most exclusive and delicious coffee at Pasticceria Cova located on the same road, just across the Gucci store.
The place is a bit of old school charm and a step back in time as it was founded by Antonio Cova in 1817. Even Ernest Hemingway in his "Farewell to Arms", declared that he wanted to eat at Cova.
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| An old photo showing Pasticceria Cova |
If you are a fan of watching people acting with a flourish, that's a nice spot to get to know the fashion-conscious part of the city: you can rest assured that you will be drinking your coffee between slick-looking gentlemen talking about Dubai parties, and young 2-mt tall models decked up with freaky hats!
A piazza with a view
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| A magnificent view of Piazza Duomo...what else? |
Its size has actually varied a lot across the periods depending on the different town plannings, and in 1900 there was even a heated debate on whether to place a colonnade similar to Rome's Vatican Saint Peter's Square!
If you don't have much time to visit, stand at the back of the piazza and really watch it. All the best Milan's best-known attractions are encapsulated there!
Read below the 3 must-see attractions on Piazza Duomo.
The most artistic cheese grater
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| Museo del Novecento as seen from Galleria Vittorio Emanuele |
You wouldn't believe that in Piazza Duomo there stands a cheese grater! Well, if you turn on your right the modern art Museo del Novecento looks like one.
There you won't be processing any foods, but marvelling at 400 masterpieces by major artists from 20th century (Picasso, Braque, Kandiskij, De Chirico, Balla, Carrà, Fontana, and many more). Really worth it if you love art!
Tip: you can have a lovely view overlooking Piazza Duomo from the glass panelled windows on the upper floor, or you can enjoy a meal from the rooftop restaurant (book in advance).
Access is free every day on the last two opening hours, or on Tuesday from 2 pm!
The tallest lady in town
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| La Madonnina: Milan's Madonna, high-up on the Duomo |
We are not talking about a Milan fashion model or a basketball player: it's the symbol of Milan, the Madonnina, the Virgin Mary statue spire placed at the top of the Duomo, at the height of almost 110 mt.
Tradition claims that no building in Milan should be higher than that (which is not true as Palazzo Lombardia is the tallest skyscraper in Milan).
If you want to visit the Duomo dating back to 1386, and in particular its 52 pillars, the 55 stained windows and 12,000 square metre floor, you'd better wake up really early, or book the tickets well in advance!
There are usually endless queues to get in and to go up on the rooftop (you can use the lift or climb the 165 steps on foot) at a charge.
An interesting fact is that if you come at sunset, on sunny days, you will enjoy the pink view of the Duomo: all the pink marble of which the Duomo is coming from Candoglia quarries (on Lake Maggiore). The pink marble veins will be glowing in the fading sun. Amazing snaps assured!
Tip: on the left hand side of the Duomo, there is an entry for worshippers and devotees: you can have te full view of the church nave, however, if you want to say a prayer and pay a quick visit at no charge, that's another option.
Remember: no short pants or tank tops are allowed to access the church in the summer. You need to pay 2 euros to take snaps.
Make sure you check carefully the Duomo opening hours (especially, the lift to the top) that may change.
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| The spectacular Duomo as seen from the Piazza |
Spinning on the bull's balls in the oldest shopping mall in Europe
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| Galleria Vittorio Emanuele: the oldest active in Europe |
Amongst the big brand name shops, you will be amazed by the shining floor and lunette mosaics. By contrast, if you look up you will see an art deco huge glass cover and iron arches.
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| The beautiful glass dome in art deco style |
It is shaped like a cross and it connects Piazza Duomo and the Opera House La Scala: at the intersection of the two gallery arms, there is a rampant bull on the floor mosaics.
Step on his private parts and give it a good swirl: the legend tells that you will come back to Milan by doing so. The Milan's bull legend is the counterport to Rome's coin throwing in the Trevi Fountain!
The sad story behing the Gallery is that Mr Giuseppe Mengoni, the architect who built the Galleria and the Piazza Duomi, did not make it in time to enjoy his work. He fell off a scaffolding in the Gallery and died before its completion.
Tip: during the day it is super crowded, however at night the place is empty, so to us that was a good moment to enjoy its full beauty.
If you really want to "people watch" try the Camparino bar, the historical cafe where Campari was created. However, bear in mind that it is not cheap!
LUNCH AND AFTERNOON
Grab a taste of Puglia for a quick lunch
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| I can't resist Luini's panzerotti |
For me it was a way to refresh my recent memories of last summer's Puglia tour, given that Luini's founder came from Puglia in 1949 and since then they have been baking and frying their food specialties!
If you visit Milan and don't stop here, you will miss out on something!
Tip: the place gets really busy with people of all ages who wants to grasp a warm panzerotto. Avoid 1 to 2 pm queues or be ready to queue up (opened: 10 am to 8 pm except Mon 10 am - 3 pm).
Figure out why Milan is called Milan
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| A pig behind the origin of Milan? Photo by M. Casanova |
Have you ever wondered why the city is called "Milan"? I know that the question won't keep you up nights, but one of the most fascinating things is finding out about the origin of things. It's my fixation.
In the heart of Milan one square which is worth visiting is Piazza dei Mercanti (Merchants' square) and the near-by Palazzo della Ragione (the Palace of Reasoning).
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| Piazza dei Mercanti with the Loggia, photo@Stefano1111 |
The square was Milan's life hub int the Middle Ages, and it is a miracle that it survived bombings, reconstructions and city developments.
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| Beautiful palazzo called Scuole Palatine on Piazza dei Mercanti |
Apart from the fantastic decorated palaces all around, there is a covered loggia which used to be a courthouse and on one of the loggia columns, there is a boar whose half body is covered in wool.
The legend goes that Milan was founded by the Celt Belloveso where he had dreamt of a half-woollen sow. He named the place "Medio-lanum" which means half-woollen. The name over time became Milan.
Fun tip: if you stand under the Palazzo della Ragione loggia and whisper facing any pillar, a person standing on the other side of the loggia will hear what you say!
Shopping and art: walk down Via Torino
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| Evening ends Via Torino shopping galore, photo@Luca Riva |
High-street shopping craze
Walking down Via Torino on Saturday afternoon can give you a bit of a headache if you don't have a destination as the street fills in with frantic shoppers.However, it can also fulfil you wildest dreams if you like splashing on high-street clothes, books, shoes and bags. The street is home to a wealth of little shops definitely less expensive than the nearby Via Monte Napoleone.
Don't miss the amazing optical illusion art wonder
For a break from shopping walk into the church of Santa Maria presso San Satiro (dating 1482) along Via Torino. It is free and often tourists miss this real beauty.The church plays a little trick on you: you will see an amazing trompe l'oeil by Bramante's mastermind. The optical illusion makes the church apse looks very deep, but it is shallow, just dozens of centimetres.
Play hide and seek amongst the ruins
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| Romans knew how to enjoy themselves... bath time fun! |
It is fun to think that in this area where people enjoy Milan's nightlife, there used to be a thermal spa, a palace and a temple built in II or III century.
In a way, the place has retained the purpose for which it was set up: having a good time and meeting friends!
By contrast, there are some modern graffiti by local artists next to it. If you come here at weekends or at night, the area is packed with a bar circuit, so it can get lively but noisy.
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| If you love street art, graffiti in San Lorenzo are a good starting point |
Experience the variety of world cultures at iconic MUDEC
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| Mudec is a glass box whose aim is to promote international cultures |
An excellent example of industrial refurbishment by architect David Chipperfield to host both permanent and temporary exhibitions on art works and cultures from all over the world. Don't miss it as it a real jewel if you want to know more about world cultures!
We visited Mudec to see Frida Kahlo's exhibition which is one until June 2018.
Interested in art, Mexico and Frida Kahlo? Read more here about Frida Kahlo's art display and life in my blog article.
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| Iconic Frida Kahlo |
APERITIV AND EVENING
Don't miss ossobuco and risotto alla Milanese for dinner
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| Ossobuco and risotto alla milanese |
You can't end your day without tasting the local food, and I had to pick a dish I would go for stewed veal shanks (ossobuco) and sun-yellow risotto alla milanese (cooked with saffran and bone marrow).
We picked Trattoria Capolinea where you actually make friends with other customers as you share tables in a jolly banqueting mood. Delicious large portions and Lambrusco wine will do the rest!
Have a drink with genius Leonardo da Vinci where nightlife gets in full swing
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| Navigli by night |
End your Saturday night fever at one of the hundreds bars or cafes open until 2 or 3 am in the Navigli area. The area is home to Milan nightlife hotspot is crossed by a network of canals whose refurbishment around 1500 was by the Reinaissance genius Leonardo da Vinci, not just any dude!
Have your glass of wine standing on the banks of Naviglio Grande or Naviglio Pavese wondering what Leonardo da Vinci's face would be if he saw how the canals look today.
In fact, originally the canal area connected the northern Italian lakes (Maggiore and Como) to Milan for business reasons as all the goods flew into the city on barges. This is how the marble stones used to build the Duomo were transported into town!
Tip: don't miss the pictoresque Vicolo dei Lavandai (the laundrymen's alley) with colourful flower pots, lots of art galleries and lovely courtyards where to snoop around.
Tip 2: before dinner (around 6om) don't miss aperitiv. You will be served little tapas such as olives, crisps, cold cuts, or ham and salad, pasta and so on. To drink? Go for Negroni Sbagliato (literally, wrong Negroni: Prosecco rather than gin).
Buy at any newsagent's kiosk a day card for 4,50 euros and (valid from the moment you stamp it). A 90-minute ticket is just 1,50 euro.
We had a go on Milan tram line 1 which gives you a bit of a tour around the city centre and it is like travelling on San Francisco's cable cars!
If you buy MilanoCard which is the city pass, city transport is unlimited and free.
Pasticceria Cova, Via Montenapoleone 8.
Camparino in Galleria, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, corner Piazza Duomo.
Duomo: history, opening hours, tickets and guided tours, click here.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele: did you know that you can go up and walk along the skyline path rooftop gallery at 250 mt? You will see people like ants from up there! For more information, click here.
Santa Maria presso San Satiro, click here or here.
Mudec (Museum of Cultures) and Frida Kahlo's art exhibition, click here.
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| Vicolo dei Lavandai today |
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| Past laundrette in Vicolo dei Lavandai |
IN BRIEF
Getting there
There are a number of ways you can reach Milan. Fly into Malpensa Airport which is 55 km from Milan Central Station.
Malpensa Express can take you right into town. I came from Venice by Frecciarossa train by Trenitalia which takes 2 h 50 minutes (roughly).
Getting around
Walking on foot is the best way to explore Milan. However, Milan has a fantastic public transport network including the Atm metro line.Buy at any newsagent's kiosk a day card for 4,50 euros and (valid from the moment you stamp it). A 90-minute ticket is just 1,50 euro.
We had a go on Milan tram line 1 which gives you a bit of a tour around the city centre and it is like travelling on San Francisco's cable cars!
If you buy MilanoCard which is the city pass, city transport is unlimited and free.
Where to stay
Milan has a fantastic hotel choice from low cost to top luxury ones. We picked a friendly, inexpensive and clean hostel in the Navigli area. Doubles from 90 euros (b&b). Click here for the hostel.Where to eat
Duomo area
Panzerotti Luini, Via Santa Radegonda 16.Pasticceria Cova, Via Montenapoleone 8.
Camparino in Galleria, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, corner Piazza Duomo.
Navigli area
Trattoria Capolinea, Via Lombardini 1.What to do
Museo del Novecento: click here.Duomo: history, opening hours, tickets and guided tours, click here.
Galleria Vittorio Emanuele: did you know that you can go up and walk along the skyline path rooftop gallery at 250 mt? You will see people like ants from up there! For more information, click here.
Santa Maria presso San Satiro, click here or here.
Mudec (Museum of Cultures) and Frida Kahlo's art exhibition, click here.
More information
For Milan tourist information and events, click here.Eager to know more about interesting things to do and see in Milan?
Keep an eye on the blog for more ideas to come!
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| A famous Italian song refrain, really an ode to Milan, says: "Let them say whatever they like, but Milan is really great" |