How to spend an off-season fairy tale weekend on Lake Garda: spa, traditional food, and dragons

If you have less than 48 hours to spend on the charming Lake Garda, from relaxing at a thermal spa to tasting local carne salada, here are my top picks to plan an off-season getaway on the east side of the lake. A great break despite the unreliable weather and the dragons.

Why off-season?

The pier in Lazise on a November day

Forget about crowded places, long queues, high-season expensive hotels and go to Lake Garda off-season. I loved the two-day break in November on the largest lake in Italy. Especially this time of the year you can enjoy the calm atmosphere that rises from the Garda waters and the quiet towns. You will love the relaxing ambiance. Trust me.

1. First day: Saturday morning

• Lazise

• The first free municipality of Italy

  

  Marker of Lazise, the first free municipality of Italy

Lazise is a pretty town set on Lake Garda's eastern coast, half an hour from the nest of Rome and Juliet, Verona. It can boast the fact that it is the first municipality of Italy. Once an riotus and unruly town, it claimed its economic and tax autonomy in the far 983. The Holy Roman Emperor, Otto II, granted the rights to the town, and all the later powerful families, the Scaliger and the Visconti, followed suit.

• The Scaliger castle

  

  The path into Lazise walled town and the Scaliger castle

"Any idea why they put a dragon in Lazise coat of arms?, Paolo asked me inquisitively, while we walked under the impressive arches of the Scaliger castle. The path along the town walls was lined up with colourful flowers despite the chilly weather of November. "I have no ideas", I replied. "I suppose dragons select the most beautiful spots to guard in jealousy", I added. My belly was rumbling as if the dragon was in me, and it was starting to follow a scent.

• The main piazza

  

  The horse-shaped harbour looking towards the main piazza

The scent led us into Lazise main piazza, surrounded by beautiful porches. Our fangs sank into a rich cornetto - the Italian favourite pastry for breakfast- at a delicious pasticceria overlooking the piazza. The place is looking out on a tiny horse-shaped harbour. All the boats were moored and still. 

The harbour promenade leading from Lazise to Bardolino

If you walk the whole harbour promenade, in just over an hour you can reach another beautiful town, Bardolino. Alternatively, as we did, you can sit on the waterfront benches and flocks of white swans swimming near the shallow shore. While we sat there mother ducks, watchful for the pikes, scooped the lake surface for food as if she had radars. The scene was really amusing as her duckling followed her like a row of floating corks. The only sound you could hear was the beat of their wings and the morning mist hang over Lake Garda like an organza veil.

• The Venetian Dogana

  

  The 14th century Venetian Dogana

  
  

"I found the place to celebrate your big birthday party. Look at this place, Patty", my husband cried out, reminding me that sooner or later I will be reaching the half century mark. "You mean, this place?", I asked with surprise. In front of me there was the most iconic venue in Lazise: a 14th century old Venetian warehouse called "the Dogana". Lazise was part of the Venetian Republic, "the Serenissima", and here the traded sacks of grain were stored and taxes levied. I want to go in, but the main door is locked. I peep through the large windows. The place looks fantastic. Silver cutlery and elegant glasses shine on round tables covered with soft creamy table cloth. The wooden ceiling made the place look like a castle grand hall. The atmosphere of the old warehouse converted into a local events spot is captivating. 

• A special day

  

  The Italian memorial for the Nation Unity Day in the background

Today we can feel the captivating atmosphere in the local people gathering and chatting lively in front of the municipal house. Today it is a special day in Italy. Small groups of former Italian military soldiers from the "Apini" body, wearing their alpine hats with feathers, are preparing for the march and the procession. The Italian flag is showcased on the municipal building facade. The local music band is playing a cheerful tune and a long queue of people are getting ready to parade through Lazise streets. People in Lazise and all over Italy remember the National Unity Day and the Armed Forces Day in memory of the Fallen of the I World War and of all wars. The procession stops in front of Lazise memorial at the far end of the harbour, and a simple wreath-laying ceremony takes place. A sense of peace and quiet atmosphere reign all over the place, like magic. 

• Lazise pier

  

  The empty pier from where the boats leave to cross the lake

After the march, the town is back into normal life. Next to the "Dogana" there is a pier from where daily boats leave to cross the lake. The pier ticket booth is desert now. Boats have already left and a chain is keeping off noseys. Only seagulls and a bike chained on the pier railing guard the area. The atmosphere is relaxing, right now we don't want to be anywhere else in the world.

1. First day: Saturday afternoon

• Colà di Lazise

• The thermal spa resort

  

  Villa dei Cedri thermal bath park main entrance

At Garda spa-going is one of the all time favourite activities for tourists and locals alike at any season. If you have an insatiable interest for wellness, relaxing thermal resorts and spa treatments, don't miss the Villa dei Cedri, the thermal bath park at Colà di Lazise. We got the admission ticket as a pampering gift, but a variety of ticket prices makes it a reasonably affordable destination. Of course, healing through hot water and spending a day between bathtubs and cascades do not come that cheap, but the experience is worth every euro spent.

• The spa park

  

  The huge forest in Villa dei Cedri and one of the thermal lakes

"A Medieval tower!", I cried out on the way to the spa main gate. "We might find the dragon here", Paolo grinned. Looking for the local Loch Ness monster in the hot spring lakes intrigued both of us. We can't tell you about the dragon, but certainly once you get in the spa park, you will feel like a prince and a princess. There is a huge forest in Villa dei Cedri that spreads across 13 hectares of rare plants from all over the world. You walk through manicured paths to get to the two thermal lakes.

• The lakes

  

  An overview from the terrace of the big lake and the two Jacuzzis on the right with the cascades and caves

When we visited, only the big lake was open. Water temperature was around 33° C., but there are two Jacuzzis at 37° and 39° C. respectively. Apart from swimming at bath temperature in the lake there are two small caves to explore with cascades to stand under and small waterfalls to admire.

• Eating

  

  The splendid Victorian-style glasshouse, the sun loungers and behind the winter garden cafeteria

Entry to the lake is through a splendid Victorian-style glasshouse where plenty of sun loungers and bathrobe hangers are available for free if you come early. If the dragon in your stomach growls, there is a self-service restaurant next door in the winter garden cafeteria that reminded me of the Grand Pavilion in Kew Garden in London.

• Tree hugging

  

  The old tree in the park

  
  

Tree-hugging healing therapy

I don't know whether it was the tree hugging healing therapy that we performed on the huge Himalayan cedars of the Villa dei Cedri park before leaving, but the happy mood stayed with us for a long time. 

• Peschiera del Garda

• Fancy a spritz?

  

  Peschiera del Garda local bars and spritz time

"Are you ready for a spritz?". It was 7 o'clock and it was time for a pre-dinner aperitif. Undoubtedly spritz is the trendiest drink in Italy today. If you want to try and make it, here is the 5-minute recipe: shake 3 parts of Prosecco wine, 2 parts of Aperol and 1 part of soda water. Shake it. Add some ice cubes and half a slice of orange.There you go! In Venice, the place where spritz was invented, in the local bars, they serve it just with soda and Prosecco wine, plus an olive. We enjoyed a good one at a local bar in Peschiera del Garda, a jewel town located ten kilometres south of Lazise.

• The walled town

  

  The walled town of Peschiera del Garda

Peschiera del Garda is a fortified town founded in the Bronze Age, developed by the Romans and turned into a fort by the Venetian Republic. On top of the network of alleys of the town centre, you have a feel of the Venetian heritage in the local culinary art and in the famous "sarde in saor" dish (literally, sweet and sour sardines). This dish is still today Venice's most distinctive traditional food. Talking about fish, in Peschiera forget about dragons: in the town crest, there are two eels, a clear link to the historic fishing industry heritage.

• Castelnuovo del Garda

• Our accommodation

It's time to meet our hosts for the night at the bed & breakfast that we have picked in a little town called Castelnuovo del Garda. Their rural house is nestled in the countryside between the fields and vineyards of the region. A long driveway welcomed us together with two magnificent mastiffs. The host, a former diver-instructor-fisherman came to us in his beautiful shimmering armour like a modern knight. "Apologies for showing up with on", he said pointing to his kitchen apron. "I am cooking for twenty guests for dinner", he added in a hurry. "What kind of menu are you serving?", the ever-starving dragon in me investigated. "Anything from Cherokee ethnic food to Sicilian traditional meals. My wife is of native Indian origin and I am from Ustica", he remarked proudly.

• Design for travel lovers

  

  The Japan-themed room at our bed and breakfast

If you are into home decor and a travel fan, this is the ideal place to sleep. At least for us it was. The old concrete stairs and the old brick walls of the farm have remained unchanged, but everything else smells new. To me the house imperfection is a sign of its legacy and past. We accessed the dining room on the ground floor which is a perfect mix of old furniture and modern taste. Paolo and I have wanted to visit Japan for a while now, and suddenly -after climbing up the flight of stairs to reach the top floor- here we are in Japan! The house features themed rooms: Tunisia, Japan, Africa and Pioneering America. The hosts collected the furniture around the world. Our red-black-white room wall actually tried to trick us into thinking we were in a traditional ryokan. Of course we were not. However, crossing the Japanese sliding panel in the bedroom undoubtedly makes you almost believe you are.

1. First day: Saturday evening

• Sona

Just six kilometre east of Castelnuovo del Garda, there is a less visited hamlet called Sona. The village nestles in between moraine hills and olive trees. Tonight our dinner is at a typical trattoria. On its front door a name plate says: "Bagolo". In Venetian dialect "bagolo" means "good fun", and the verb "bagolare" means "to chat". Definitely many fun conversations must have been going on here since 1997 when the restaurant was set up.

• A typical restaurant

Two cooks in their chef toques were slicing and boiling in an open space kitchen. The hungry dragon in me was roaring again. The dining room was cosy, the air was warm and the walls were covered with a yellow hue. The tables across the room were laid with a tablecloth with matching napkins. On the side of the room, shelves loaded with great value whisky bottles were telling me that that was a temple for liquor experts and tasters."A good antidote against the winter chill", said Paolo looking at me as if he had read my mind. Few customer were eating when we entered: their lively chats in the local dialect stopped, they lifted their heads to nod slightly and went back quickly to their conversations.

• Their traditional cuisine

The food we has was delicious and plentiful: ravioli filled with duck meat and goose breast, followed by ribs with green beans and fillet steak with roasted potatoes. We matched the tasty foods with a local Valpolicella classic wine with an intense aroma of wild berries and cherries. During the evening the guests' voice volume rose with laughter and we left the place late feeling like royalty, sign that the lack of overt luxury of the place meant no lack of ambiance.

1. Second day: Sunday morning

• Torri del Benaco

"We should go to Torri del Benaco all the same", Paolo said looking at me with encouragement the morning after. I was looking outside the b&b window: light raindrops were already falling on the pomegranates, on the olive trees around the house and on the barbecue grill in the garden. However, it was a gentle soothing rain. The unfavourable morning start was offset by homemade jam produced with the host's homegrown fruits. "We need this rain. The lake will blossom again", the lady claimed. "For almost a year the lake hasn't seen a single drop and its level has gone done a lot.", our host continued.

• The Gardesana road

"We should go to Torri del Benaco down the Gardenasa road", I replied to Paolo following his remark. The result was that a couple of hours later we were driving along the Gardesana scenic route. It is a famous road that winds along the east coast of the lake. "This street is for sports car enthusiasts", remarked Paolo. "I know", I added. "Do you know that it featured in a James' Bond Quantum of Solace car chase? I bet you didn't know!". Unlike 007, we are not in a hurry to reach our next destination, Torri del Benaco. 

• The clock tower and king Berengar

  

  The clock tower and Don Quixote statue in Torri del Benaco

The elegant clock tower is still standing closely to one of Torri del Benaco's town gates. It was quite wise to come and visit the place as the Berengar tower is one of the main gems of this side of the lake. Beregar I, a former Italian king of 9th century built a fortress around the local castle to strengthen the defence system against Ungara raids with walls and towers. The tower clock struck midday, and the drizzle started to turn into heavy drops. Next to the tower few people outside a bar were discussing over a late morning coffee, and a Don Quixote statue stared coldly at them in envy.

• The Torri del Benaco castle

  

  The castle in Torri del Benaco

At the end of the lake promenade, you can't miss the local castle and the harbour: high up on a hill, that day the castle looked tired as if after the tourist summer siege, it really needed a rest. Even the olive trees surrounding the harbour around the castle seemed to stretch out their arms in protection. If the castle could talk, I am sure it would beg for silence. The main castle gate showed a notice saying that in November the castle was shut. We did not mind: shining in the rain the castle had an amazing aura of mystery.

• The harbour

Another inexplicable mystery of the place is how the tiny weeny port of Torri del Benaco made the fortunes of many local families who got rich with timber, wool and marble trades. The goods were stored in a warehouse opposite the castle in what today has become the Gardesana hotel, dating from Xv century.

• The Gardesana hotel

  

  The Gardesana hotel facing the harbour and the castle in Torri del Benaco

Before being turned into a famous hotel, the building was the place where for 300 years the Gardesana council, the federation of the ten municipalities of Lake Garda, met and took important decisions. In the past the hotel was a piece of glam: if we lived in the Dolce Vita years, we might have spotted here guests such as Vivien Leigh, or the legendary Maria Callas.

• The Church of the Holy Trinity

  

  The tiny church of the Holy Trinity in Torri del Benaco

"I wonder whether the big names who were staying at this hotel ever came into this church", Paolo pointed out. I myself had overlooked this tiny chapel and had walked past it as it is squeezed between the hotel, a narrow alley and a restaurant. The church of the Holy Trinity hides a well-kept secret: a freshly refurbished fresco of 14th century representing a shining Christ that gives its blessing to a crowd of Prophets. When we came out of the church we felt a sense of blessing too: the rain had stopped and the sky had settled. A sense of cleanliness caressed the air and a dense fragrance had risen from the ground. 

1. Second day Sunday afternoon

• Time to lunch

At lunchtime the weather gods had decided to send the sun out. It was the promise of the end of a grey afternoon. "I would fancy trying carne salada", my husband declared. "Let's ask the bartender where we could find a good trattoria", and he disappeared in the bar in front of us. I had no idea of what carne salada was. Ten minutes later we were driving back to Lazise to lunch in an agriturismo, an Italian farm where you can eat and find accomodation.

• A traditional agriturismo

According to the bartender, this agriturismo was a rustic farmhouse serving affordable, traditional dishes. When we got there, the place was full of families celebrating birthdays or Sunday meals. The dining hall looked cosy and simple: it was part of the old barns, not far from the actually working farm. Chickens, ducks and horses, olive groves and vegetable garden are all taken care of by the family members owning the place. Their cooking idea is based on the zero-kilometre food concept: all they cook is produced locally.

• Their farm produce

The moment we slided into our chairs, a young waitress served us a huge wooden tray of homemade hams and pickles: prosciutto crudo, ossocollo, pancetta matched with pickled peppers, aubergines, courgettes, green tomatoes. "The pickles are top choice", Paolo confessed happily, eating the crunchy vegetables. "You can feel the heat of the summer on the tomatoes", he summed up. I was quite stunned: by nature he hardly pays compliments and he is terribly picky when it comes to quality. However, given that he himself spends his spring weekends planting tomatoes, potatoes, and carrots, I must admit that he was right.

• Their carne salada dish

"Here is your carne salada", the smiling waitress interrupted us laying on the table the "salty meat" dish. "It looks like dragon meat", I joked as I saw the ruby red meat slices. I smelled them: they smelled of herbs, olive oil, salt and pepper. "In the past people needed to preserve meat for a long time. That's why they dipped it in brine with spices.", Paolo informed me. A recipe and a traditional cooking and conservation method that are still used today around Lake Garda.

In brief

• Getting there

We travelled to Lake Garda by car which you can hire at Verona airport. 

Verona airport is located 22 kilometres, south of Lazise. Click here to find useful information to rent a car.

• Where to stay

Cà Blanca in Castelnuovo del Garda (Verona, Italy)

• Where to eat

El Bagolo Ristorantino in Sona (Verona, Italy)

Agriturismo Le Tese in Lazise (Verona, Italy)

• What to do

"Villa dei Cedri" spa park in Colà di Lazise (Verona, Italy)

Torri del Benaco castle in Torri del Benaco (Verona, Italy)

• More information

For further information: Lake Garda Tourist Board, click here.

• Just for fun

Film: Quantum of Solace, by Marc Foster (2008)